right drift...

[sly the dogman]

I have a Spartan DS760...
Even though I think I got the 8 degress needed on the tail blades,
the nose of the heli still dritfs right and really difficult to fly on rate mode.
Got an idea ?

[cgetman02]

I'll setup for "close" to the 8 deg. of pitch on the tail blades with the tail servo horn at 90 deg. to the servo. Then I don't even check it in rate mode. I just always fly in HH mode anyway. I think you will find even if you have some drift in rate the gyro will hold solid in HH.

My 2 cents.

Crashmaster

[sly the dogman]

But the drift is in HH mode not rate mode. I figured that if it flies solid in rate mode its gonna glide in HH mode like the GY520 I had. But I can barely fly the heli in rate mode and it drifts "slightly" in HH.
Dominic suggested I change the pading where the gyro sits. I'll start with that.

[cgetman02]

Like I said, just my 2 cents, LOL. Good luck with the problem, Tail issues can be a bugger to figure out sometimes. Keep at it you will get there. On my 600 I was having a time trying to get to a good point between slow wag and fast wag. Ended up putting a velcro strap around the gyro to compress the mounting tape slightly and it seems to have helped the problem. We shall see this morning I'm going to try and put her back in the air after an unplanned landing!

Good Luck, you will get it ironed out.

Crashmaster

[wanderer56]

I'm thinking vibration also sly. Mounting pad/s may have come loose. Or gyro wires got moved and are now getting bumped by another wire or flapping in the wind. My Quark doesn't like to be touched by any other wires.

[cgetman02]

Check to make sure you don't have any trim or subtrim on the rudder Chanel.
Just one more thing to check. My flying buddy suggested checking that
While we are waiting out a shower at the flying field.

Crash

[wanderer56]

+1. I didn't mention it because sly's been around a while and figured he already knew that. But you know what they say abount asumptions!

[sly the dogman]

I took off the 3M pad and installed a pad I had from the BeastX FBL system (yea, I sold it, I love paddles what can I say.) and bundle up the wires but I left a bit more than 2 inches loose from the gyro to the bundle. I did a test flight and it solved 90% of the problem, it drifts ever so slightly and very very slowly. I may try to change the main blades just to see. My trims are all centered and no sub-trim on the tail servo. I may just leave it as it is, as long as it doesn't alter the heli while in flight.
I'm open to suggestions if you have any.

[Angelos]

Originally Posted by sly the dogman

[...]I'm open to suggestions if you have any.

I have lots! http://www.spartan-rc.com/resources/...q.php?topic=20

Cheers,
-Angelos

[sly the dogman]

If I want to ajust the gyro's deadband I need that funky little box.
What's the difference between the firmware, the software and
the datapod.

I read throught the link and the only thing I could think of that might help is the deadband otherwise the BeastX pad isn't good enough I've been told. So I'm gonna change it to a Futaba pad, 3M & futaba is all I have. Where can I get some Spartan pads ? No drift is better than a small drift, right ?

[pugdavey]

I used to get this intermittently on my veloctiy with the ds760. Spartan pad was all I ever used. I found if you toggle the gain switch fast a few times it would stop drifting


Sent from my iPhonings

[sly the dogman]

Update

I finally re-programmed the gyro, just to be sure. No charged packs, I hovered a bit with a 3300mAh with 3.82 left, very windy conditions for 3 min. tops. Really can't say, hoping tomorrow will bring better weather. Set the gyro on a 2 position switch and I toggled it before flight ; can't say if it made a difference. Will all repeat this tomorrow.

[Angelos]

> If I want to ajust the gyro's deadband I need that funky little box.

> I found if you toggle the gain switch fast a few times it would stop drifting

Yes you need the DataPod or the FlashLink+SLX. However, this may not be your problem. If the deadband is an issue the LED will double flash when the stick is centered. If it remains solid then the deadband is sufficient and neither adjusting it or toggling the switch will fix it.

Also check that the LED remains solid blue as you choose different modes (Idle 1,2, etc) as some radios have separate trim settings for each which will upset the gyro if they are different.

Please follow the FAQ I linked to in my previous post. It was written and revised over long time and covers pretty much all known causes for drift.

-Angelos

[sly the dogman]

I checked the link that you posted and nothing seems to help this problem. The gyro is on a 3 position switch and when I toggled it the LED stays solid.
One thing though, when I set the limits on the gyro, the first side that the servo offers is the side that the tail blades are set, at 8 degrees, so when I move the stick to ajust, I do not have much play. I don't have the whole tail shaft to move the slider. Only the space that the 8 degrees left, don't know if you understand what I'm saying. But on the other side I have the complete shaft to move the pitch slider.

[sly the dogman]

Completely re-did the whole setting form centering the servo wheel at 90 to programming the last step. The drift's stil there, ever so slowly but it's there. Again followed the FAQ and I cannot find an answer. I ordered some Quark pads, should be here next week. Got Futaba on for now.
I'm at a lost,

[sly the dogman]

Changed the main blades, tail blades, main shaft, tail shaft, new motor can & shaft, new bearings in the motor, spindle is new, bearings are new this frame has never flown. Installed all kind of pads. What's left to change....
the gyro, sold the DS760 today, sorry Spartan not user friendly for an Atom 500.
Good day !