Just ordered a Fury 55 FBL!

[Pvtzemerak]

Hey guys,
I just ordered a fury 55 fbl, my first machine. Ive been debating between this machine and the outrage velo 50, and the decision was made today when i took a trip down to my LHS and saw all the spare parts they have in stock
Ive been practicing on the sim the past 2 years, and ive mastered all orientations (hovering) forward and backward flight both inverted and upright, so i finally bit the bullet

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions for my first build / setup. Heres what i plan to use as a setup.
OS .50 Hyper
SAB-50 Hatori SAB-50
Futaba S9452 on cyclic
BLS 251 tail
Full size Vbar
Edge 603mm FBL blades
7.4V 2200mah pack (turnigy)

Thanks guys! I'm so excited to finally build this bird!
--PvT

[fastflyer20]

Sounds very good, they are a very nice machine!

A few comments:

You do not need expensive FBL blades starting out. Helidirect sell Pro 3D CF which are fine for learning on, doing mild 3D, I still use them as backups. 1/2 the price and learning, you will never be able to tell the difference.

You will need a regulator for the LiPo, better yet, replace it with a LiFe pack and no regulator is needed and they have a longer life expectancy. Don't forget some type of a switch.

An onboard glow is VERY nice, Perfect Regulator or the SwitchGlo "PushGlo" are both good and simple. The alternative is to remove the canopy every time and use a glo igniter or use a glo extension on the heli and a glo igniter. You can see the onboard glo is really the way to glo (pun intended).

If there is anyone that can take it off and hover it the first time to check it out for you, that would be very beneficial.

[Brian James]

Make sure to check out the awesome build videos that Finless Bob did:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=215358

[Pvtzemerak]

Thanks guys!
Are these the blades? They're a little cheaper than edge-
http://helidirect.com/600mm-main-bla...ss-p-20534.hdx
Also, im selling a few plank parts, so im thinking of using an Ar7100's built in regulator.
Thanks for all the help though! I should be picking it up thrusday or friday.

[fastflyer20]

http://helidirect.com/600mm-pro-carb...is-p-10336.hdx

These are the ones, lots cheaper, I would buy name brand if the price difference was small.

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by fastflyer20

http://helidirect.com/600mm-pro-carb...is-p-10336.hdx

These are the ones, lots cheaper, I would buy name brand if the price difference was small.

Thanks! How will the FB blades feel on a FBL machine?
Also, will the futaba servos (S9452's) be able to handle direct 7.4V since i will be using an Ar7100 Rx/regulator? If not, what servos will be able to handle the voltage?

[dchekas]

I wouldn't run the 9452's off of a LiPo.... Now, a LiFe pack? Definitely. Take a look at the Hyperion LiFe packs.

I'm going to have disagree with the "3D pro" blade recommendation. Guy at the field ordered those for his heli, and found them to be WAYYYYY out of balance. So much so, I think he's planning on returning them.

You can get Align 3G blades for around $70. I wouldn't get anything less. If you've mastered all the orientations on the Sim, you're going to be progressing pretty fast in real life, and you will benefit from the better blades IMO.

[fastflyer20]

I have used way to may sets of Pro 3D 600's, they balance better than the Radix I compared them to. Now the 690's did not fair as well, they would not track.

My Fury 55 flew fine with FB blades, some prefer a FBL blade, I tend to like the lighter feel of FB blades.

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by fastflyer20

I have used way to may sets of Pro 3D 600's, they balance better than the Radix I compared them to. Now the 690's did not fair as well, they would not track.

My Fury 55 flew fine with FB blades, some prefer a FBL blade, I tend to like the lighter feel of FB blades.

If i have the money, ill try both
What Rx LiFe pack do you guys recomend? I have alot of lipo chargers, but never bothered to get into LiFe batteries

[kcordell]

I would run BLS252's (or some type of equivalent) on cyclic on FBL models. Quite a bit better servo and FBL control systems are quite demanding. Whatever servos you run, run them at recommended voltages (even though you may have run them higher on FB systems as the FBL system will really work them, and that with increased voltages will either damage or shorten the life of the servos).

[fastflyer20]

The only one I have uses is the Hobbico 2100 mah. More brands are becoming available as they gain popularity.

http://www.hobbico.com/radioaccys/hcam6415.html

[whittb]

I just bought a fury 55 myself. I already have a velocity 50 and a Compass 6HV. You made a wise choice. The velocity 50 is a very good flying heli, but the parts are a pain in the but. I have flown the 3d pro blades and they are not very good. I would spend a little extra on a better set of blades myself. I run the blue full size V-bar on all my helis, you will love the unit. It flies great right out of the box if it is set up properly. See the Mr Mel videos for setup details. The V-bar governor is the best I have tried to date.

I was planning on using the os50, but I got a great deal on a os55, so I took the offer. I got a lot of good feedback form forum members saying that the 50 will supply plenty of powers for the Fury 55.

I use align DS620, Ds650 servos on my helis and they would very well. They will handle the direct to swash linkage just fine, they did on my 600E pro anyway.. I sold by 600E pro the fund the fury. just cannot get the nitro bug out of my system. The servos are 181 for 3 ds 610s and 75 for the ds620. I have had several crashes with them and not a single one damaged. I run a Western robotics BEC with my servos set to 6v.

[Pvtzemerak]

Thanks guys!
I was thinking of using a Gryphon voltage regulator instead of a LiFe pack. I was wondering what is your opinion is on running that compared to LiFe.
Im probably going to use the Vbar as a reciever, with two Dsmx satellites, just to save space.
Any thoughts on this setup?
--PvT

[eightythree]

Awesome choice on your first REAL heli

You are on the right track and seem to be sorting things out pretty well.
Your setup seems good to me (no comment on the fbl setup tho.. Fbl is just not my thing yet). I would use a voltage regulator imo..

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by eightythree

Awesome choice on your first REAL heli

You are on the right track and seem to be sorting things out pretty well.
Your setup seems good to me (no comment on the fbl setup tho.. Fbl is just not my thing yet). I would use a voltage regulator imo..

Thanks!
Now, on the the govenor, i would like to buy less electronics as possible, is the govenor that comes with the Vbar 5.1 software usable on a nitro machine? I really would like to use the Vbar as a "Total package" ( FBL system, reciever, and govenor) , but if its not possible, im probably going to go with an Ar7100R with a backplate sensor ( i dont want to spend the extra money if i dont have to. Nor do i want to have to modify the frames and use magnets if i dont get the Ar7100R)
Any thoughts on a choice of a gov?

[whittb]

Yes the governor will work very well with the nitro or electric setup. it is a proactive governor not reactive so the motor will feel much stronger. I used to satellite receivers, bound them at DSM2 low resolution on my DX8 transmitter. The V-bar can handle a lot of voltage, look in the V-bar forum for more info. I use a Western robotics BEC as a voltage regulator and a switch glow starter. Some people run the V-bar on high voltage with no problems. I prefer a BEC just to be safe.

You will find all the info you need on the V-bar forum. There is a setup video for every application of the V-Bar and governor function. You will need to buy a 10 dollar magnetic governor sensor. I use the align on with good results on my velocity 50. I have no idea witch sensor mount to use yet. Still working on that one.

To save money I would suggest the following ideas. You do not need a Gryphon voltage regulator but they are very nice…
The Western robotics BES is only 80.oo dollar. It is a very well made unit with great reviews. You do not need to buy a receiver, just two satellites will be great. The Switch glow starter is only 35 dollars, I have never had any problem with them. If you are wanting to save money, check out the align DS 610 servos, they are built prof and inexpensive. You can use them for starting out all the way up to hard 3D. the expensive servos are also expensive to repair. The gears on for the DS610 are only 25 dollars a set for power you can look any 2 cell lipo, turnigy and outrage make good packs at cheap prices.

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by whittb

Yes the governor will work very well with the nitro or electric setup. it is a proactive governor not reactive so the motor will feel much stronger. I used to satellite receivers, bound them at DSM2 low resolution on my DX8 transmitter. The V-bar can handle a lot of voltage, look in the V-bar forum for more info. I use a Western robotics BEC as a voltage regulator and a switch glow starter. Some people run the V-bar on high voltage with no problems. I prefer a BEC just to be safe.

You will find all the info you need on the V-bar forum. There is a setup video for every application of the V-Bar and governor function. You will need to buy a 10 dollar magnetic governor sensor. I use the align on with good results on my velocity 50. I have no idea witch sensor mount to use yet. Still working on that one.

To save money I would suggest the following ideas. You do not need a Gryphon voltage regulator but they are very nice…
The Western robotics BES is only 80.oo dollar. It is a very well made unit with great reviews. You do not need to buy a receiver, just two satellites will be great. The Switch glow starter is only 35 dollars, I have never had any problem with them. If you are wanting to save money, check out the align DS 610 servos, they are built prof and inexpensive. You can use them for starting out all the way up to hard 3D. the expensive servos are also expensive to repair. The gears on for the DS610 are only 25 dollars a set for power you can look any 2 cell lipo, turnigy and outrage make good packs at cheap prices.

Thanks for the suggestion!
If i have the money, ill probably buy high end servos ( i dont want to replace servos later on if they get sloppy over time.) Wich is why i was suggested Bls 451's.
Im looking for sensors right now on readyheli, could anyone chime in on which sensor they would prefer to be used with the Vbar?

[Pvtzemerak]

Look what came in today
im like a kid on christmas right now
Very little parts count, quality looks awesome.
Unfortuanatly, i wont be starting the build till september, thats when ill be buying the engine/pipe/blades ( gona try to get the whole airframe done then). Then ill finish off the build mid winter by buying servos/Vbar/regulator. All the small things ill need inbetween.

[Pvtzemerak]

Hey guys, just an update.
I was wondering what engine the gear ratio on the stock machine is meant for? (.55 or .50) For $10 more than what i plan to spend on an engine/muffler, Helidirect has an OS .55HZ with an outrage muffler combo, that way there would be no need for an upgrade later on. If i am going to go with . 55, should i use 620mm blades or 600mm? I really like an "all around" type of flying. I want the machine to fly likes its on rails (big air, smooth 3D, very precise) , but also be able to come in for some "Tight" smack 3D , so im having trouble with blade size choice.
Any suggestions?

Also, im thinking of running Bls 451's on cyclic with the gryphon regulator. I know its a little high end, but i dont want my servos getting "sloppy" over a period of time.
--PvT

[fastflyer20]

55 is a good choice, slightly harder to tune, but much better power. Run it on 20% to save on fuel cost. With lots of flying, the cost of the engine is actual a small $ amount. Last year, I used 38 gallons of 20% in 2 YS56's @ $22 per gallon that is $836, 30% at $30 would have been $1140. So for mild 3D/sport flying a big bore on 20% vs a 50 on 30% is the most economical choice and you get the bonus of more power, win - win.

Stick with 600mm, you can experiment with 620's later, I felt the 620's bogged my 56 too much for my taste.

I am a firm believer in LiFe, no regulator, why go to the added expense, complexity and potential failure by adding a regulator. LiFe also have a much better life expectancy and are safer than LiPos. Another win - win.

BTW - The 451's are great, but a crash or 2 or 3 can take out any servo. You can buy two DS610s for the price of one 451, so if you take it out in a crash it is less expensive to replace. The direct link of the servos to the swash on the Fury is less forgiving than bell cranks for when the inevitable happens.