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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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01-08-2011, 03:15 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Need help on setting up screws on 450 Sport feathering shaft.
How tight should the screws be on the ends of the feathering shaft? I believe that the tightness of these screws controls the compression of the rubber dampers. Also, when I tighten these screws one blade holder is harder to turn than the other, due, I believe, to uneven compression of these dampers. I assume that the feathering shaft will eventually position itself to even up the compression of these dampers.
I am very new to this, so comments and suggestions will be very welcome. Thank you. Ted |
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01-08-2011, 05:27 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Tight. (...and nothing but tight.)
Just center the feathering shaft (eyesight is good enough)... After adding washers/thrust bearings/blade holders... the feathering shaft will self-center as you tighten the screws. Make sure you put some loctite on the screw threads and be careful when you are inserting them not to get any loctite on the bearings. There are aftermarket dampers available that have different hardness ratings that will affect cyclic responsiveness (or sponginess).
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TRex 450 Pro / TRex 250 / Blade mCPx (v1 BL & v2) (All with misc upgrades.) TRex 450 SE / Blade SR (Gone... but not forgotten.) Last edited by Finskeeper; 01-08-2011 at 11:03 PM.. |
01-08-2011, 06:07 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Agree, screw it all the way down until it is snug. Then let the thread lock dry over night. Just make sure you have all the washers and stuff in the right place.
One tip about thread lock. Use a very small screw driver to put a little thread lock into the female threads of the feathering shaft rather then on the male threads of the screw that goes into the feathering shaft. That will eliminate any possibility of getting thread lock into your bearings. |
01-08-2011, 09:40 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
HF Support
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Quote:
And before you conclude that the grips are tight/notchy pull firmly outward on them and then rotate. The outward force should free them up. If not, check the order and orientation of all head parts (bearings, washers, dampeners, collars etc.). Make sure all are seated fully in the grips/head.
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Jonathan Livingston Helicopter Blade 400: E-flite 420H/35X ESC, AR6100e, HS65HB x 3, G401B/DS290G. (Ret.) CopterX 450AE V2: 430XL/35X ESC, AR6100, HS65HB x 3, LTG2100T/HSG-5084MG. T-Rex 550E V1 Classic Flybar: 600MX/BL70G, AR6200, DS610 x 3, Quark/DS650, 16t/520mm blades. |
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01-08-2011, 09:46 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Tight. Just don't strip your screws, but then again don't worry about that, just be sure they are tight and thread locked. Also if they are notchy, it may be because your bearings in your blade grips are not completely seated.
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