Pictures! My RKH rotary build

[fabian1675]

Originally Posted by wsntme

I'm getting 5.598....So I'd say that is good.

Any other things I should check before I consider myself very lucky?



I'm thinking I'm lucky I discovered my mistake with a 2s battery and not a 3!

Good to hear that your indication so far is good, I'm waiting to see how this GY280RX works out for you. I'm thinking about building another 130X with the RKH frame equipped with GY280RX. Thanks for sharing your info, looking good so far.

[scott s]

You may want to check to see if you lost any programming ability in the talon. If you get a motor signal and throttle works properly I would say your probably good to go!!

[wsntme]

Originally Posted by scott s

You may want to check to see if you lost any programming ability in the talon. If you get a motor signal and throttle works properly I would say your probably good to go!!

Well, looks like I may have escaped with just that "burnt electronics" smell . I was able to set up the talon for my 3s config and save it to it .

Would you guys recommend re-shrinking the ESC or just coating the exposed board with something (LET?) to give it a little protection? Either way, I need to pick up the materials to do it, just wondering which route you would go.

[scott s]

Clear pvc heat shrink for sure. You can get it on ebay. There is one seller there that has many sizes and if you click on, then scroll down the page aways there are details of how to determine the size you need.
Seller is twisted rc.
Do a search in all departments for battery heat shrink

[wsntme]

Grassy Ass !

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

Grassy Ass !

Here I have the link to the correct size. I just measured one of my talon 15's.
This is the same size I just ordered for my 5035 servos. So you can use it to put a band around the middle of the hitecs to keep the cases from possibly separating. The cases are 3 piece and can come apart because they are held together only by press fit. Do it LOL!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRC7201-29MM...item27d9143440

[wsntme]

Awesome. Thanks for the link and the tip on the servos! No idea they were just pressed together. 4' of that stuff is headed my way....may take a while to use 4' worth doing esc's and sub micro servos LOL.

I take it you'll be trimming your new braces to clear the shrink tube on the servos? Or are you going to go around the servo AND the brace?

[pmerritt]

Originally Posted by wsntme

Awesome. Thanks for the link and the tip on the servos! No idea they were just pressed together. 4' of that stuff is headed my way....may take a while to use 4' worth doing esc's and sub micro servos LOL.

I take it you'll be trimming your new braces to clear the shrink tube on the servos? Or are you going to go around the servo AND the brace?

you put it on before you install the brace....it's only a thin little strip and if that little strip interferes with the fitting of the brace, which i highly doubt. You could just file down the carbon fiber just a little bit to get enough clearance.

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

Awesome. Thanks for the link and the tip on the servos! No idea they were just pressed together. 4' of that stuff is headed my way....may take a while to use 4' worth doing esc's and sub micro servos LOL.

I take it you'll be trimming your new braces to clear the shrink tube on the servos? Or are you going to go around the servo AND the brace?

NO, jeez LOL! The heat shrink goes around the servo middle top to bottom. It does not come close to interfering with the brace at all. The heat shrink goes up against the output shaft guide and then to the raised part of servo case just behind the mounting tab on that side. A 10mm wide piece of the tubing. just about all the shrink is in the long part of the tubing. You will see or do I need to post up a photo for this simple task LOL!

[Neunerball]

Originally Posted by wsntme

....I'm getting 5.598....

I was wondering, you have the Talon 15 and you're utilizing the HS-5035 servos. How are they holding up? I read the operating power for the HS-5035 is 4.8 Volt. Is the power absorbed by the FBL, or how does that work?

[wsntme]

Originally Posted by Neunerball

I was wondering, you have the Talon 15 and you're utilizing the HS-5035 servos. How are they holding up? I read the operating power for the HS-5035 is 4.8 Volt. Is the power absorbed by the FBL, or how does that work?

This is a good question and I've observed the same number you're concerned with. I have been reassured by both skykraken and scott s that the hitecs handle the 5.5 just fine. We shall see.

[scott s]

Originally Posted by wsntme

This is a good question and I've observed the same number you're concerned with. I have been reassured by both skykraken and scott s that the hitecs handle the 5.5 just fine. We shall see.

Again I will post this. The hitec are designed around a 4 cell NiCad or ni-mh flight pack that has nominal voltage of 1.2 volts per cell or 4.8 volts. These packs when fully charged easily reach 5.5 volts. Fully charged they are about 1.43 volts per cell or 5.72 volts. If you are that worried about it put a radio shack 50 volt 3 amp barrel diode in the red wire coming off the esc's throttle/bec output lead. This will drop voltage to around 4.8/4.9 volts. I do not bother LOL!

Just like our lipos are 3.7 volts per cell nominal voltage but fully charge will reach 4.2 volts per cell

[Neunerball]

Originally Posted by wsntme

This is a good question and I've observed the same number you're concerned with. I have been reassured by both skykraken and scott s that the hitecs handle the 5.5 just fine. We shall see.

Originally Posted by scott s

Again I will post this. The hitec are designed around a 4 cell NiCad or ni-mh flight pack that has nominal voltage of 1.2 volts per cell or 4.8 volts. These packs when fully charged easily reach 5.5 volts. Fully charged they are about 1.43 volts per cell or 5.72 volts. If you are that worried about it put a radio shack 50 volt 3 amp barrel diode in the red wire coming off the esc's throttle/bec output lead. This will drop voltage to around 4.8/4.9 volts. I do not bother LOL!

Just like our lipos are 3.7 volts per cell nominal voltage but fully charge will reach 4.2 volts per cell

Now, that makes sense! I was worried, having bought the servos real cheap, that they might not work with my total rebuild. (MH rotary frame, Talon 15, ZYX-S, remote DSMX receiver, etc.)

Thanks guys!!!

[pmerritt]

not to mention you can nearly burn off .5 volts just by plugging it in, putting the canopy on, and spooling it up for takeoff.

By the way, sometimes I don't know what's more fun.....flying or modding. I think part of my problem is that I have spent equal parts of time in modding and flying.....I need to be flying more. Then I crash and friggin modding starts anew....lol

[wsntme]

Originally Posted by pmerritt

.... I think part of my problem is that I have spent equal parts of time in modding and flying.....I need to be flying more. Then I crash and friggin modding starts anew....lol

^^^ This is my problem... Kinda like ADD, something breaks so I start on something else, intending to fix what I broke when parts come in...well let's just say I usually have a lot more things that are broken then are in working order at any given time....lol. Also, I hate stealing from one project to finish another, so for me it's more likely to have 3 birds down instead of cobbling parts from 3 into one or two that work. I end up robbing them later anyway so I don't know why I fight it!

[wsntme]

Still waiting on servo connectors , ordered on the 22nd so figured I'd get them today...WRONG, they were shipped today.....slow ass shipping from hannsenhobbies.

Anyway, I like pictures so I took some of what the end product will look like. I'm a bit nervous now since as it sits right now, with no battery (34g) it weighs in at 130.7. The canopy is heavy, i know, but man....that means I'd be looking at 164 AUW. 3s or not I don't think that's a healthy weight. Hopefully once I get everything squared away I'll have it under 150auw.

CLICK for larger images

[SkyKraken]

boom supports

[wsntme]

Originally Posted by SkyKraken

boom supports

Haha, I like 'em! They are from the mostly stock bird that I just flew straight into the ground today.... I bought it used and those are what was on it, along with a homebrew(HF production maybe) third bearing boom. Looks like the original supports were just cut it half and then slid inside the bigger shafts with some CA applied.

[helibus]

Originally Posted by wsntme

...Looks like the original supports were just cut it half and then slid inside the bigger shafts with some CA applied.

Yep. They were all the rage a while ago. Well, there were at least a few people that had done that.

EDIT: This was a common approach to extend the stock boom supports before they were available from aftermarket vendors.

[wsntme]

Today I received my servo plugs and got those little suckers all installed. I was able to progress through the vstabi setup almost all the way as well. I still need to setup my tailservo and pushrod. I also need to go back through the setup and do a better job, I got it close but was kind of skimming through to see what it's all about since this is my first time.

First rookie mistake I made was to assume the servos were at center already....so I put them all on and attached links like a dummy......then I went to setup vstabi without reading "disconnect servos first"(it tells you this AFTER you enter setup). Hooked up my battery and all three servos rotated in bad ways , disconnected battery right away. After that "oops" I feel all went pretty well.

I'm still a bit confused what holes to use on the servo horns. The two rear servos I have in the first hole since this puts the link most perpendicular to the ground. If I use this same hole on the front servo them my link is at a hideous angle....but if I got to the last(3rd) hole on that horn then the link is almost directly vertical, the problem I would assume is that now the front servo has more travel/throw than the other two. Should I just put all links in the middle hole on every horn and just have all links at an equally slanted angle?

CLICKY FOR LARGE IMAGES