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05-21-2015, 02:33 PM | #1 (permalink) | ||
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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first nitro N5C general tips ?
Hey guys i just picked up a used n5c and went through it. This is my first nitro and i have about 2 days of trying to read up as much as i can about them so i dont screw something up!
Running an os55hz with spektrum backplate sensor and using ikon gov. Well right now im using a v curve ungoverned because the gov seems to suck at 50 percent. Using some older coolpower 30% they had sitting around for a while. Anyways like i said im very new and pretty uninformed at the moment about nitro helis. Any tips on general things i need to look out for or do? Is it best to land with some fuel still in the tank? Should i pinch the fuel line to kill the motor or use throttle cut? WhaT do i do to the heli after im done flying for the day? Ive been running my motor rich till i learn it more and get used to the noise and then i will start going a couple clicks in and listening and watching for lean symptoms. General nitro info like that would be greatly appreciated! Im sure all of the basics are online somewhere but i just wanna fly asap! Heres a video of one of the first flights on it. She looks rich with all that smoke
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05-21-2015, 06:20 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Some good tips in here https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=639290
Check the manual for the OS on stopping, the YS I have says to pinch the fuel line on the last flight of the day to clear out the engine. If you're planning to restart it, then throttle cut is fine. The YS is regulated, though, which might make a difference.
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Team Only Fine Helis |
05-21-2015, 06:51 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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My best advice to you is to find someone that can help with your needle settings initially.
You should never run the fuel tank dry while flying. This leads to a lean condition just before it dies. Throttle cut will work between flights and if your going to fly it weekly. If you are not going to fly for longer periods a few drops of after run oil placed in the carb and glow plug opening will help stop the bearings from rusting. I use rubbing alcohol sprayed on the model to help clean it. I see your in Michigan. The mid America fun fly is next weekend. There will be any number of people that can help you out if you can attend for even one day. Hope this helps. John
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Team Synergy, Rail Blades, Lynx Heli Citizen #396 |
05-21-2015, 07:29 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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Hell of a nice flight bruh!
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05-21-2015, 09:46 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Yeah, I've got nothing... You seem to kind of have this heli thing figured out.
Nice flying!
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Team Synergy Field Rep, Rail Blades |
05-21-2015, 11:23 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Nice Flying Bruh And Whats Your Setup
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Synergy806 + 686 + E7 Se + E5 + 516s Synergy N7 + N5c. N556 Vcontrol touch + vbar neos Synergy Field Rep The Nation 267 |
05-22-2015, 08:37 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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i fly my tank empty every flight. is it good? probably not, but i dont like stopping until i am forced too.....lol
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Gasser Mike Team KDE Direct, TRM Power, Byron Fuels, MKS Servos |
05-22-2015, 09:15 AM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Thanks for the input guys! unfortunately i work weekends and wont be able to go :/ is there any other DOS and DONTS i should be aware of? i wish there was a club near me to join but closest is flying pilgrims and they dont seem to friendly to heli guys. |
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05-22-2015, 10:06 AM | #9 (permalink) | ||
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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I'm pretty new to nitro as well... I started with factory suggested settings till I had about a gallon thru her.. Then leaned out 3 clicks at a time till I thought I had it right.. I did get a lot of help from fello nitro pilots here in my area.. A big plus.. I did do a lot of online research.. The Tim Jones videos helped me a bit in understanding tuning.. Here's a link to part 1.. Think there are 3 in total.
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05-23-2015, 09:15 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Awesome thanks for the tuning videos!!
Should help a lot but theres no replacement for experience Dont know why i put off a nitro for so long. They are really fun helis. Any model specific tips you guys have? I have a e5 12s im selling so im pretty familiar with synergy . For the life of me i cant get the exhaust to stop leaking. I sanded the pipe on my granite countertop with 800 grit as it wasn't very flat. Did some light sanding on the motor and installed a gasket and it helped a ton but i still have a slow small leak. Its a hatori pipe. |
05-23-2015, 10:48 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Lots of different opinions on this. What's worked best for me is to put a very thin coating of the black high temp RTV on the exhaust port and on the pipe. Let them cure overnight and trim any off that's overhanging into the exhaust port openings and then tighten it down. Another thing I did was to just go ahead and drill out the threaded holes in the pipe for screw clearance and I use screws that go all the way through. I use two nuts, one to tighten it down and then a jam nut.
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05-23-2015, 03:04 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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What Rodney said! Mine was a bit different.. The OS-55HZ-R I have didn't have threaded holes to mount my Hatori... I got bolts long enough to pass thru the engine & muffler leaving enough for a nyloc nut... I honestly can't remeber the length of the bolt... But the RTV is a definite! Have seen some buddies here almost loose their pipe mid air.... I haven't had mine get loose yet.. So I guessing it's the way to go.
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05-25-2015, 11:23 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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+1 to the Tim Jones videos. There's others out there too like the one Bert did where they deliberately run it lean.
You ear will be the single best aid and safety catch to tuning. After that, it's knowing what to look for in smoke and response. Know that engine tuning is not so much a black art, but something that can be boiled down to a process. Always start rich, and until you have experience (and are feeling like living dangerously ) don't make large adjustments on the needles. Beware that YS engines have coarser adjustments than comparable OS. 6+ clicks on an OS is likened to 2 to 3 on YS. RTV (black is good up to ~500*F intermittent) works very well. The only other thing I've found to work as well or better is the high temp epoxy PC-Fahrenheit. +1 on "double nutting" as well. The aluminum threads in most pipes will wallow out eventually. It's a wonder that a cheap pipe like the outrage had such a superior setup with steel inserts, but Funtech and Hatori still use alum threads on their 50 size stuff As for nitro odds and ends, things that come to mind on the spot: *A piece of fuel tube is excellent for threading in a glow plug before tightening. *Hands down best starter/price is the Dynatron with a small lipo strapped to the side. You see old plank guys still using ones made 15 years ago. A solid start shaft works well and is cheaper. Cone mount ones are preferred IMO as they provide damping for the clutch stack and engine. They'll slip if something locks up. *Regulated engines should never be left "wet". Run them dry at the end of the day or enjoy a gunked pump/diaphragm later. All that's needed is a look at the Engines sub-forum to see the grief a stuck reg can cause It's not a bad idea to do the same with non-reg engines. "Nitro" fuel is hygroscopic (methanol) and absorbs water. *Likewise, it pays to keep a spare check valve on hand if running regulated. The silicone diaphragm can fail with hours and ditto for the little spring. That said, regulated engines are awesome for tune consistency over a tank's flight. *It helps to run fresh air through the engine as well due to nitromethane's combustion products containing nitric acid. This is also partly the reason to store exhaust gas pressurized setups with a full tank to remove exhaust gasses. *After run oil, or really any light machine oil or rust preventative, is recommended if you intend to let the heli sit for more than a week or two. Less time if you live in hot/humid locales or the heli spends the night in a tent. *Ceramic bearings are evil. They run smooth, but fail catastrophically and shoot ceramic shrapnel throughout your crankcase. Stainless or hardened bearing steel works fine. *Flying a tank empty....depends on the setup. Regulated engines you can generally get away with, but will still suffer a slight lean condition right at the end. Non regulated engines will be leaner towards the end of the flight to begin with and can easily be damaged by running the tank dry. In either case, it's best to avoid the practice if you can. A well tuned engine has a fairly predictable "worst case" time to bingo fuel. *Don't skimp on fuel line setup and check often during preflight. Many pilots have grey hairs from pinholes and crummy clunks, crankcase air leaks, etc. *Familiarize yourself with the concept of fuel/air mixtures and how they relate to density altitude if not already. You'll know ahead of time what direction you'll need to tune and how the engine (and really the heli itself) will perform relative to other days. (This is especially true with large shifts in physical altitude and temperature). *For cleaning, grab some mechanics rags for general purpose. As pointed out, rubbing alc and or a SimpleGreen water mix works really well for cleaning stubborn gunk. Most gunk won't build up though so long as you're diligent about a post flying-day wipe down. *Nitros vibrate (surprise right?), so beware that screws are much more likely to back out, wires and solder joints more likely to chafe/fray/break, loose aluminum parts will cut into each other and plastic, etc. Secure everything best as you can to save grief later on. *Much like aligning the frames for the main shaft to drop smoothly into place, do not overlook aligning your clutch stack. You'll know it's wrong if you try and turn your starter coupling backwards and it's rough. It should be relatively smooth in operation or the bearings in that assembly won't last nearly as long. *A cheap rubber band or tiny spring setup to close your throttle on power/link loss can save a lot of heartache by preventing a visit from the chicken dance kraken. Someone might tell you it looks ghetto, but then you can chuckle as his brand new 91 chokes down a quarter pound of dirt *Speaking of, beware dirt. Even with a filter, crud can find a way to block something at the worst time and run your setup lean. This is where a good ear comes in as you can nearly always save an engine from going bang from a lean run with a quick throttle hold finger. A good filter in your fueling setup will cut out bits making it to your heli in the first place. It's 12:31AM, so I know I'm missing somethings (or might even have something backwards), but hopefully this helps Welcome to the club of those manly enough to fly the stanky helis
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"You need more rockets. Everything is better with rockets" Mike Dipalo--Synergy RC, MKS Electronics |
05-26-2015, 09:26 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Absolutely awesome reply Commodore!!!
i appreciate the time you spent typing that up for me! Extremely helpful thank you very much. i definitely have a small fuel leak somewhere, however i cant find the thing!! i am going to epoxy the pipe tomorrow and hopefully thats the problem. however it seems like its leaking on the other side of the motor or directly on the bottom somewhere. it seems to run well and not be sucking air. that kind of confuses me. i leaned the motor out quite a bit and was able to get almost 7 mins of flight time vs 4:30 previously and she performs much better and i think its still on the rich side however im happy where its at right now. |
05-27-2015, 07:45 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Check the stopper on the tank, I've had leaks from there before. Ron Lund sells a 12.7mm expansion stopper that fixed it for me (the trex 600/700 one he has listed)
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