Which ESC to get for my Logo 550 SX

[Raptorapture]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

Makes me want to run the BEC Guard on my BEC lines to the FBL system but I would have to run two per Helicopter. They are $40.00 each so $80.00 per Heli.

I think you can gang the two power leads into a single BEC Guard, just need to separate them again going into the FBL or FBL and receiver. In future I suspect the BEC power leads will be enlarged end to end, ie with FBL enhanced current connectivity, anyways, alleviating the need to do this,

[hemp]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

I highly recommend putting some sort of electronics between the BEC output and your vbar

Have to do this anyway. The YGE manual states very clearly that you can't run a battery backup without a diode inline to prevent the voltage from entering the BEC, and I never run a BEC without a backup. Since the OptiPower BEC Guard also protects from overvoltage coming out of the BEC if something shorts internally, there's little risk of it frying something else.

Besides that, I'm fine with the risk. If they were frying electronics routinely Heino would have done something about it. That's a subjective view of course, but I'm comfortable with it.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Raptorapture

I think you can gang the two power leads into a single BEC Guard, just need to separate them again going into the FBL or FBL and receiver.

That's correct - OptiPower says it's supported and is more than adequate for "most applications". Downside is you need two Y splitters or solder the leads on.

[Freeskiken]

I haven't been running one with my ESCs. Do I need to run a BEC guard with the Kontronik Jive ESCs ? I haven't heard of any failures frying the electronics. Not saying that it hasn't happened.

What did people do before the BEC guard came out ? A diode soldered on the positive wire ?

What about when using a opti-guard battery back up ? It is still needed there is no protection built in ?

[RedJoE]

I use a Castle ESC, I think I heard Castle say the Optiguard is fine with their ESC, but still it's strange.

I did an experiment a while back when I first connected my Optiguard. I unplugged the main battery pack and let the Optiguard take over, then I turned off throttle hold. I found that not only did the Optiguard backfeed the ESC and power the ESC, it also attempted to start the motor. I quickly shutdown as I thought it might fry something, obviously it didn't have enough juice to actually rotate the motor, but the motor was singing and vibrating like the blades where being held.

I found it odd that the Castle can power itself and even run the motor from the power coming FROM the radio power lead. I don't think they thought about this when they designed the ESC.

So, if the BEC fails or the power to the FBL fails, then the Optiguard will kick in and all is well, however if in flight the main battery power wires were to become desoldered or disconnected, then I have no idea what is going to happen as the Optiguard is now going to power the ESC, perhaps zapping it of it's needed juice to power the FBL.

Add the backfeed prevention circuitry as another item that all ESC's need to have built in. They need this and they need the circuitry to prevent the BEC from frying the electronics. Should be standard on every product sold from here on out, backup guards are becoming the standard.

[Freeskiken]

Quote: the backfeed prevention circuitry as another item that all ESC's need to have built in. They need this and they need the circuitry to prevent the BEC from frying the electronics. Should be standard on every product sold from here on out, backup guards are becoming the standard.

I agree should be included in the ESC circuitry.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

Do I need to run a BEC guard with the Kontronik Jive ESCs?

Kontronik ESCs are designed to support running with a buffer pack. I know that's true of the Kosmiks and believe it's also true of the Jive series, but it never hurts to check the manual.

Originally Posted by RedJoE

I use a Castle ESC, I think I heard Castle say the Optiguard is fine with their ESC

CC ESCs don't have backfeed voltage protection. There's a thread on here where someone from Castle stated that you can't use a Backup Guard with the CC BEC Pro .. I'll dig around and try to find it. If their standalone BEC isn't designed for it, good bet the built-in ones aren't either. UltraGuard has a slight advantage over the BUG in that it turns itself on after the BEC is powered, whereas you could turn on the BUG first. But when you unplug the BEC, that UltraGuard stays on and starts delivering power - right into your BEC's "exit only" port...

Most of the switching BECs on the market will tell you not to run a battery backup with their SBEC without a diode or other protection inline. Includes WR.

"I've been doing it for years without issue" is pretty much the standard response. In most cases you won't have a problem. Just that if you do, you've been warned and shouldn't expect warranty support.

[Raptorapture]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

... What did people do before the BEC guard came out ? A diode soldered on the positive wire ? ...

A diode in series is not going to help for protecting the electronics against the ESC voltage leaking through which I believe is the main purpose of the OptiGuard. A Zener 8v in parallel, reversed, could help but only as long as it could take the load and the solder doesn't melt

[Freeskiken]

Wow, Thanks for the information. I remember reading something on the Kontronik site about using a buffer and what size is appropriate.

It looks like for the YGE either I remove the back up battery or add two BEC Guards.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

It looks like for the YGE either I remove the back up battery or add two BEC Guards.

You only need a single BEC guard. Just need to join and split the current at either end.

[Freeskiken]

Thank you for the answers. I will buy one BEC guard and a Backup guard and get rid of my backup battery with a switch. Yesterday I was flying it with out using the backup battery.

[heli808freak]

Originally Posted by heli808freak

I am getting my second Logo heli and I was wondering on which ESC to get. I thought about getting the Kontronik Jive 120 + HV. I will be running a Pryo 650-103L motor and a single 6S battery. Can I use this ESC? I would welcome and appreciate any advice.

Wow! my question took a life of its own. I really appreciate all the inputs and advices from everyone. I'm overwhelmed with all the response. I ordered my Logo 550SX today and for everyone's curiosity I got the Kontronik 120+HV. Thanks again!

[Phil777]

Originally Posted by heli808freak

Wow! my question took a life of its own. I really appreciate all the inputs and advices from everyone. I'm overwhelmed with all the response. I ordered my Logo 550SX today and for everyone's curiosity I got the Kontronik 120+HV. Thanks again!

Good choice

[Freeskiken]

Yes Great Choice. 😀

[vertico]

Great choice!
I buy the 120hv for everything because it can be used on anything 500-700. Very versatile 😉

[OICU812]

Anything that an utilize vbar gov is best. Proactive versus reactive gov always wins!!

[Lowknifedge]

Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I have a logo 550sx with a Pyro 650-103. I had a YGE 120lvk which when it was working correctly was good. However I am looking for something different. I have a HW 100V3. However it worries me that it may not be enough exc. I don't fly hard 3d just mild at best. However i do run about 2250 HS when doing stuff and then if im just flying around I drop down to around 2000.

Gear ratio right now is 9.63 (mod 1 with 11T pinion).

Thanks for any help guys.

[Raptorapture]

Originally Posted by Lowknifedge

Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I have a logo 550sx with a Pyro 650-103. I had a YGE 120lvk which when it was working correctly was good. However I am looking for something different. I have a HW 100V3. However it worries me that it may not be enough exc. I don't fly hard 3d just mild at best. However i do run about 2250 HS when doing stuff and then if im just flying around I drop down to around 2000.

Gear ratio right now is 9.63 (mod 1 with 11T pinion).

Thanks for any help guys.

If the Hobby Wing does 100A nicely you should be fine. I recall the kit either coming with or recommended at 90A. Also, full tilt on that heli was 2,400 rpm for me.

[acidla]

I also have Pyro motor on my 550. I believe the HW 100a will be good. I have YGE 120 now.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Lowknifedge

Sorry to dig up an old thread.

Sorry to respond late to an old question on an old thread.

The HW 100V3 will be great for the usage you described. I am unsure whether they've updated the firmware for the V3 or if it's only for the V4, but if you're running a VBar and want to run the VBar gov, you'll definitely want their latest firmware. If you're using the HW governor then you can ignore all that.

Mod 1 with 11T pinion and Pyro 650 is a great setup for the 550sx. I run mod 1 with 12T pinion (same motor) but I run 2250, lots of pitch, and heavy thumbs, so I need the headroom. I use the HW 130 V4 which stays cool even on hot days. But that's me. For the flying and setup you described, I believe the HW 100 will be more than adequate.

My ESC install can be seen in this thread: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=750196.