How to remove Trex 150 main motor screws

[HeliSoCal]

Has anyone found a way to remove the main motor without stripping the screws. The wrench align gave will not remove the motor without stripping screws. Looks like you will have to buy a new motor each time you replace a frame at this rate.

[jean-michael]

When screw metal to metal sticky with loctite you can heat with solder iron pensil. This is what I do when a have hard screws sticky.

[HeliSoCal]

I'll have to give that a try, it was virtually impossible to get them out with the amount of loctite and weak socket heads

[nynextel88]

Like jean-michael stated a soldering iron tip works well for screws thats near plastic, otherwise I use a heat gun. If the tip of the screws are so badly stripped that you cannot use an allen wrench to remove, go ahead and take a dremel with a flat cutting disk and cut a flat slot in it to then remove with a flat-head screwdriver.

[jean-michael]

For stripped screw you can put elastic between the stripped screw and the bit of your screw driver. Hope this help.

[Dylwad]

Use a .050" hex driver.

[megarckid]

Yeah I use a hex driver or torqs bit it fits the Allen head ally better. I don't know what type of metal they used in the screws on this thing but they are really soft.

[Rahulgaba]

PLEASE dont use those aling supplied Hex wrenches. THey strip every screw they touch. Get you a good set of .050 wrenches (2 of them) and of you want the smallest one too, then the size smaller too (1 of them). I had the same experience with my screws. But same screw with the Thorp ones I have was not stripped.. Align ones are not the right size.

[Dylwad]

Even cheap .050" allen keys work, you dont need high dollar hex drivers, just the right size ones

[Bimbo]

Is it a 1.3mm hex screw? I've gotten a thorp screwdriver and that works fine! Not a cheap driver though...

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by Bimbo

Is it a 1.3mm hex screw? I've gotten a thorp screwdriver and that works fine! Not a cheap driver though...

.050" = 1.27mm

.03mm = .0011"

So, 1.3/1.27mm or .050" are all pretty much interchangeable, .050" are easy to find.

[Revenant759]

Oddly enough my Wiha 1.3/.050" drivers, which I'd imagine are actually cut to 1.3mm not .050", don't really fit some of the 1.3 screws on the 150, namely the FS screws and the (now replaced) tail motor holder screw. They fit other 1.3mm screws on it fine though. I have to use a Bondhus allen key and a harbor freight cheapo kit to get the FS fasteners out. Didn't look to be rounded out from assembly, though, which was what I was expecting first time I removed the FS.

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by Revenant759

Oddly enough my Wiha 1.3/.050" drivers, which I'd imagine are actually cut to 1.3mm not .050", don't really fit some of the 1.3 screws on the 150, namely the FS screws and the (now replaced) tail motor holder screw. They fit other 1.3mm screws on it fine though. I have to use a Bondhus allen key and a harbor freight cheapo kit to get the FS fasteners out. Didn't look to be rounded out from assembly, though, which was what I was expecting first time I removed the FS.

Might be slight differences between the coarse thread and 0-80 thread screw heads.

[Bimbo]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

.050" = 1.27mm

.03mm = .0011"

So, 1.3/1.27mm or .050" are all pretty much interchangeable, .050" are easy to find.

Although my location is Colorado, I'm a European and still not used to inches...

[Revenant759]

Don't blame you. I've been here my whole life and worked on cars for the last 14 years, both old and new American makes, so SAE and metric mixed together, as well as a lot of import makes, which are all metric.

I learned wood-working from my dad, which was all done in SAE.

I still can't get used to it. I can use it, but I'll never like it or get accustomed to it.

[jxl857]

Just came across this thread after I stripped my feathering shaft screws with the 1.3mm align hex drivers.

I tried for almost half an hour to remove the feathering shaft with the supplied tools with no success. Does this mean I'll need to buy new blade grips and main hub?

[songer121]

yep, unless you can cut some sort of line through the top of the screw so you could then use a flat head screwdriver to take them out. if not and you cant get the screws out what else could you do?

why are needing to take the head apart? crash?

[jxl857]

I've crashed it a couple of times, and it was developing vibes. Checked the feathering shaft and noticed that it was bent, so I tried to replace it with the included tools and a spare I had at home.

[Bimbo]

Originally Posted by jxl857

Just came across this thread after I stripped my feathering shaft screws with the 1.3mm align hex drivers.

I tried for almost half an hour to remove the feathering shaft with the supplied tools with no success. Does this mean I'll need to buy new blade grips and main hub?

Use a drill and drill a hole in the screw. With the correct size, you'll drill the head of the screw off and it'll come out. You'll need a new feathering shaft but you can still use your blade grips and hub, which are pretty expensive

Alternatively with a dremel you could make it a flat head screw like songer121 suggests (been there done that), but I don't think you have room for that in your blade grip.

[Torquefactor]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

Use a .050" hex driver.

amen!