Carbon frame available now.

[Roadrune]

http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=3418

If someone tries it, please post a review.

[wespen]

Have one incoming.
Will make a review.

Wesp

[akshaw]

Cool. Looking forward to it!

They say the cf frame comes in lighter than the plastic frame.

[heliboy88]

Originally Posted by wespen

Have one incoming.
Will make a review.

Wesp

Wesp, could you pls check whether the stock plastic battery tray and bottom plate can fit into the CF frame that you're having, don't like the CF bat tray cus it has no place(flat surface on top) to stick velcro on it.
Thanks a lot, looking forward to your review.

cheers,

[wespen]

Will do.
Ill weight the stock frame (have one unopened spare) and the new CF in thousant of a gram

Wesp

[EricW]

Originally Posted by heliboy88

Wesp, could you pls check whether the stock plastic battery tray and bottom plate can fit into the CF frame that you're having, don't like the CF bat tray cus it has no place(flat surface on top) to stick velcro on it.
Thanks a lot, looking forward to your review.

cheers,

The stock plastic battery plate and bottom tray are part of the solid plastic framehalves....Not separate pieces.
So impossible to re-use.
The "Complete" Carbon frame has a flat battery plate and bottomplate.
You can fill it with as much Velcro as you like
I never use Velcro for my Lipos BTW, I CA a couple of rubber strips on the tray (Tire repair rubber).
Rocksolid, better cell cooling, and i never have to put velcro on the lipos.

Eric

[heliboy88]

Hi Eric, thanks a lot for the heads up, i know the CF bat tray is flat, but they cut out all the materials in the middle to save weight, so there seems to have no place(surface) to stick the velcros on it.
Btw, how do you secure your lipo on the tray without using velcro(even straps?), do you mind to show a pic, if it's safe enough i might go the same route too.

cheers,

[EricW]

I use the supplied O-rings in the kit to fasten the lipo.
In one photo you see the rubber strips on the tray, the other with the lipo mounted.
When you use the carbon base plate,
You could use the plate as a scribe tool to make rubber fit exactly on top of the plate.
Your only concern during a flight is that the lipo stays in place in all cases.
Velcro does it, but this does it even better and simpler Imho, and you don't have to velcro your lipos.

Eric

[heliboy88]

Thanks a lot for the tips(and pics) Eric, i might try that method of yours, it really looks simpler and yet safe for my flying style.

cheers,

[wespen]

Got it in a mail today.

Just a few snaps before I start.
Looks really nice.

Wesp

[EricW]

Please let us know how it fits and how you get around with installing the electronics, resulting COG etc.
Looks great.

Eric

[wespen]

I put it on digital scale.

Stock frame - in unopened pack (so shave down a few grams) - 140 g
Carbon frame - 121 g

RTF with stock frame and 7S A123 - 1743 g
RTF with carbon frame - will see when its done

For sale - new unopened stock frame

Wesp

[wespen]

A few more snaps before I go to bed.
Electronics first thing in the morning.

Wesp

[helipete]

seems they are sold out now.

[wespen]

All done.
Now I only need AR6100 End Pin version to clean up the wires and its ready for maiden.

Review coming up after that.

Wesp

[wespen]

Sneak peak from today's flight

Protos:
- stock motor
- CC60 + CC Bec
- CSM 760 + InoLab 261
- 3xMKS 9660
- 7S A123
- 1730g

Trex500
- Z20-1400
- CC60 + UBEC
- 401 + 9254
- 3xInoLab 260
- 7S A123
- 2100g (man, friends Hurri 550 is 2500g)

Guess which one is better

Wesp

[Jimmy!]

Anyone know how durable this frame is? Cause I have heard quite a bit about the stock frame being weak in a crash. Not that I expect anything to be invincible, but frame replacements suck.

[Ecaf]

Originally Posted by audiracerj

Anyone know how durable this frame is? Cause I have heard quite a bit about the stock frame being weak in a crash. Not that I expect anything to be invincible, but frame replacements suck.

Honestly its not that bad. The frame is 2 sides with a few screws. You can easily replace the entire frame in under 30 minutes.

Plus the fact that they are $25 each, you can buy nearly 4 complete frames for the price of this C/F one.

[Jimmy!]

Hmm... I just hate having to reposition, rewire, reset, etc, everything in a frame replacement. But how fragile is the plastic frame, and compared to the CF? Or what kind of crash tends to result in a frame breakage?

Thanks for the help, I'm going to get a 500-size heli and I want to be sure its the right one before i spend the money

[EricW]

Show me a frame that doesn't need rewiring or repositioning after a hard/framebreaking crash.
All other positive factors, like price ,performance, design make the frames the least important in your choice Imho...
Better performance = more power/time to recover = less crashes
The stock replacement frames are indeed inexpensive and the fact you can buy these very nice carbon upgrades for it already, is just a big plus when you make a comparison.
Maybe people crash hard because they feel a bit to comfortable with the Protos and forget what they really master and what not....
It flies great with both, that's for sure