Please help with my build

[gfx]

Hi! I am a little perturbed. I spent lots of money on the Align T-Rex 600esp because I wanted to avoid problems that accompany the HK600GT. Well, I just started my build and I have already run into what seems like a quality control issue.

The M3 Collar screw that screws the flybar seesaw holder onto the head stock needs to have threadlocker applied. So I did that then screwed it back in and the seesaw binds now. If I back the collar screws out until they are loose, the seesaw moves freely. But the collar screws need to be snug, right?? So I tried backing them out just until they were slightly loose and it still binds some. I can tighten one screw all the way down but have to leave the other loose--that kinda works, but this thing should be able to be screwed snuggly on both sides and still be free moving, right? If I leave them kinda loose, will the thread locker hold the screws in sufficiently? If I tighten the screws down and leave the seesaw binding some, will it work itself free as it runs?? Would that be ok?? Also, the manual doesn't alert you to put thread locker on the socket button head screw that holds the SF mixing arm to the flybar seesaw. Why not?? Just moving it around while working on the seesaw, it's alread backed out almost all the way. It has tons of oil on it, so cleaning it enoughto put threadlocker on it will be a total pain.

I shouldn't be having this issue with a premium kit like this, should I? Makes me wish I would have saved 600 bucks and bought the HK600GT!! Is all this to be expected?

Thanks so much!

Louie (GFX)

[Cheetah62]

All metal-to-metal screws/bolts should be threadlocked.
If you have to back out to restore free movement there is something else happening - too much Loctite, too many spacers, a missing washer, etc.
Generally if you have issues with mechanisms binding after you apply Loctite it's likely because used too much and some leaked into the mechanism.
Bolts should always be tightened down as they are engineered to be torqued in place, not backed out by any amount.

[gfx]

Originally Posted by Cheetah62

All metal-to-metal screws/bolts should be threadlocked.
If you have to back out to restore free movement there is something else happening - too much Loctite, too many spacers, a missing washer, etc.
Generally if you have issues with mechanisms binding after you apply Loctite it's likely because used too much and some leaked into the mechanism.
Bolts should always be tightened down as they are engineered to be torqued in place, not backed out by any amount.

I always check fit before applying threadlocker. So all this binding is happening with absolutely no locktight applied yet. It's binding already as it is.

So what about all the oil already on the button head screw? How do I prepare it for application of Loctite?

Thanks.

[JRevo]

Originally Posted by gfx

Hi! I am a little perturbed. I spent lots of money on the Align T-Rex 600esp because I wanted to avoid problems that accompany the HK600GT. Well, I just started my build and I have already run into what seems like a quality control issue.

The M3 Collar screw that screws the flybar seesaw holder onto the head stock needs to have threadlocker applied. So I did that then screwed it back in and the seesaw binds now. Louie (GFX)

??

[Capt.Chip]

I use denatured alcohol and a tooth brush or acid brush to clean the screws and the hole where the screw will go before threadlock.

[gfx]

Originally Posted by JRevo

??

???

[gfx]

Originally Posted by Capt.Chip

I use denatured alcohol and a tooth brush or acid brush to clean the screws and the hole where the screw will go before threadlock.

Good Idea. I'll use alcohol. Thanks.

[MpVpRb]

Originally Posted by gfx

Good Idea. I'll use alcohol. Thanks.

But, be really sure to let it all evaporate before applying loctite.

Especially on the female threads. Wet alcohol will prevent the loctite from curing.