Power consumption 600N

[l0n3i200n]

I'm wondering if any of you measure your battery consumptions. Recently I noticed my 2200 2s LiPo drain extremetly fast.

After 1 flight the battery would be on 3.87v per cell.
Is this normal? I have redone the servo linkage rods, specifically looking for servo bind - none was noticeable.

My setup:
600N with OS55 hyper, onboard glow. HK v2 glow igniter running of Aux on Gryphone Extreme.

Align 610's running 6v cyclics and 610 on throttle
Align 650 Tail
Xbus Mode B
Msh Brain FBL
Gryphon Extreme regulator, 5.2v to Rx

Is it normal, do I have a problem
Servos is very noisy with the Brain. I have rechecked servo frequencies
Cyclic 200mhz on 1520 and Tail on 1520 @ 333mhz

[Dawiev]

Hi, I ran something similar : IKON, TM1000, YEP 20A BEC set to 6v, Protek TrueGlow and the same Align servos. On a 2s 2200mah, I got at least 4 tanks, going into the header tank most times. Only then would I be in the 3.7-8v range.

Seems to me there's something wrong indeed. Maybe the onboard glow staying on ?

[ticedoff8]

Maybe the LiPo is going bad.

Cycle it on your charger

[l0n3i200n]

Originally Posted by ticedoff8

Maybe the LiPo is going bad.

Cycle it on your charger

LiPo is new, thought it the previous one is going bad, so I changed it out.

[l0n3i200n]

Originally Posted by Dawiev

Seems to me there's something wrong indeed. Maybe the onboard glow staying on ?

I also have that suspicion, will have to check it

[bgymr]

how long are you running your glow igniter? Those things suck down power.

[l0n3i200n]

I've tested it yesterday, to check if it switch OFF, indeed it does switch OFF as per specification, 30seconds then auto shut off.

Also I re-flashed the MSH Brain unit with latest firmware, as I'm thinking the servos might have "seen" the wrong frequency.

The Align 610's are very much more noisier then the same on my 600E. I also redid the linkages, they are still noisy but a fair amount less.

By noisy I mean the buzz sound the tail servo keeps making. It eventualy quiet down after few seconds.

[myxiplx]

That sounds like it could be something sticking, any extra friction will make servos work harder. Worth disconnecting your servos and checking that everything is moving smoothly, and checking that the servos are moving smoothly too.

Check the bearings in the head too, anything seizing in the head will add load.

[Andy from Sandy]

My setup is using a LiFe pack
Futaba BLS451
MKS BLS980
Futaba S3072
V-Bar NEO

I am not a stick banger.

After a single flight I am putting about 200mA back in.

[dutch student]

ditch the on board glow part.
sucks power.

thunder tiger (and others) have got glow extension cables, your frame has got a nice hole for it (behind the motor mount)

i am running the stock setup for servo's.. mine is using about 300 ma per flight.
usually i can fly 8 tanks out of one 2s 2200 mah lipo.

other option about your power consumption, when a servo motor goes bad, is is going to short circuit
it is a normal brushed motor inside the servo.. brushes gone, servo gone. servo does work when the brushed are worn, but it will take huge amounts of power...
seen this once on my heli.. one servo has got the brushes out, the servo killed the whole bec

too much amps..

[ticedoff8]

I run the Push-Glo on my 600N and 700N.

Both heli use a 2200mAh 2S LiPo for power.

I also have:
Scott Grey Reactor X2
TM1000 Spectrum telemetry
SK 720BE with GPS-1
CarbSmart mixture adjustment (with servo)

It seems to average about 300mA per flight. I'll fly 5 times and recharge the LiPo.

Adding the Push-Glo didn't change that pattern. But, the Push-Glo is a simple device. No remote control.

But, i could see how using an "intelligent" onboard glow system could be trouble.
The Switch-Glo looks like it could be trouble. It has a connection to the receiver and can be remotely powered on / off

[Drivelayer]

I had / have a brand new Trex 700n and I was pulling nearly 600Mah per flight. had me troubled to the point in looked at everything I could think of and felt no binding at all. after about 90 flights i noticed that my battery consumption has dropped down to about 280 Mah per flight. the only difference i can see between flight 30 and flight 130 is all my links are nive and worn in. they are not sloppy, in fact changed a couple, but they all move freely,on their balls. i can twist them back and forth around the ball with no resistance, no problem, but i cannot wiggle them on the ball, like trying to pull them off by hand.. i hope i am making sense.


Early on the links would move fine but i could feel a little resistance, not enough that i would have thought it would cause a problem in fact i thought they had a great fit, but i guess when you have 18 points all providing a little resistance it adds up


BTW i use the align 2 in 1 with built in glow driver, unless your engine just doesn't start and you have to run that driver a lot its not pulling that much juice,

[Drivelayer]

I just re-read MXPLX post "Check the bearings in the head too, anything seizing in the head will add load."


Had a screw that held the blade grip arm go through and stick the head thrust bearing. the I had no idea it was bad until I was doing maintenance and took the swash loose, the servo's were able to move the blade grip and I couldn't see an issue when flying but it was very tight by hand to the point I was amazed the servo moved it.

[907Heli]

I run a protek on board glow system and is rock solid reliable and I can get 10+ flights on my 2200 rx packs.

[Alexatu]

Originally Posted by Drivelayer

I just re-read MXPLX post "Check the bearings in the head too, anything seizing in the head will add load."


Had a screw that held the blade grip arm go through and stick the head thrust bearing. the I had no idea it was bad until I was doing maintenance and took the swash loose, the servo's were able to move the blade grip and I couldn't see an issue when flying but it was very tight by hand to the point I was amazed the servo moved it.

Centrifugal forces take care of this, while blades are spinning they pull the blade grips outwards. Thus, a little resistance in the movement of the blade grips when the heli stands still is not a problem. Hold both grips with your hands and pull them outwards a bit, then rotate them… and you'll see they rotate smoothly, this is how they work midflight, just physics. Also, a spindle screw binding to the thrust bearing shouldn't really be an isssue, there's one or two bushings beneath it that handle this, plus the the rotating part of the thrust bearing is the inner one. An apparently jammed thrust bearing most likely works just fine as soon as you give it some centrifugal force to work with.