HOW TO GUIDE FOR EXTREME MCPX MODDING

[so-fly]

HOW TO GUIDE FOR EXTREME MCPX MODDING

EXTENDED TAIL BOOM

Materials needed:
2MM Carbon Rod
Dremel with cut off wheel or Xacto Knife
Sand paper
CA glue
Stock MCPX tail assembly

Step One - Remove the old carbon tube from the assembly (make sure not to damage the wires when doing so) then place the tail motor with the holder off to the side

Step Two – Measure the new Carbon rod to your desired length (approx. 1-1.5 inch longer than stock) Proceed to cutting the rod with either the dremel or Xacto knife

Step Three – Once your desired length is cut you can then cut a flat on the side of the rod like the original one. This is done by placing a piece of sand paper on a flat table edge and sanding the side of the rod to get that flat. A alternative is to cut into the rod with an Xacto about .5MM and then using the knife again splice the rod to that cut you just made.

Step Four – Place the new rod back into the frame with the notch facing downwards, once this is done you can reinstall the tail motor. Be sure to turn the motor to where its 90 degrees with the main shaft. Once desired position is set, place a dab of CA glue to secure it *optional*

Step Five – Wrap the wire around the Carbon rod and plug it back into the Main board.

ENJOY!

CUT MAIN BLADES

This mod is mainly for those who is still having a hard time managing collective or would like to take away some of the bogging.

Materials Needed:
Xacto Knife
A metal straight edge
Sand paper

Step One – Measure Approx 5 degrees starting from the inside of the blades along the trailing edge outwards using the straight edge and mark it


Step Two – Make sure you have a firm press against the blade with the straight edge and proceed to making cuts with the Xacto. No major pressure is needed when cutting.

Step Three – Break the trailing edge with your hands, it should snap off like a piece of styrene.

Step Four - Sand down the bottom side of the blades to get that air foil back to a nice edge


Straight cut shown but it’s the same concept.

BRUSHLESS POWER

This Mod isn’t for beginners or those who aren’t familiar with a soldering iron/electronics

Materials Needed

Dremel
Xacto
Soldering Iron
Brushless ESC of your choice
Brushless Motor of your choice
Brushed to Brushless Signal Converter if your ESC isn’t equipped with one

I am using the following equipment pictured:

Novus CP Brushless System PN: HMXG8015
Extreme Production Convertor PN: EA-048
Stock 8T pinion

The Following Generic Schematic should get you moving, there’s so many possibilities out there for a brushless setup so this will get the ball rolling.
Single Lipo
Using Two Lipos (helps with tail holding, but a killer on weight)




Once everything is wired up and tested working proceed to modifying the main frame. Depending on what kind of motor you are using, make sure you have a basic idea of how it would fit within the frame. The following is an example of how the Novus CP can was mounted.



Throttle curve should be turned down to match your desired head speed or else the tail will not hold. Flight times will vary depending on what you are using.

Enjoy and Post up new/better power systems!

SR120 TAIL MOD

This is a tail heavy mod and probably isn’t going to benefit you if you are using a stock setup otherwise. This was done because of the Brushless System creating too much torque for the stock tail to handle and a setup consisting of two lipos.

Materials Needed:
SR120 Tail Motor
SR120 Tail Blade
SR120 Tail Boom assembly
Epoxy
2MM Carbon Rod

Step One - Create a EXTENDED TAIL BOOM, I recommend a solid rod to prevent breaking.

Step Two - Break away the SR120 tail boom tube and remove the wires leaving just the holder. Make sure the wire isn’t damaged during the process.

Step Three – With the extended tail boom mounted onto the frame, use some epoxy and install the SR120 tail motor housing onto the extended tail boom. Be sure that it is 90 degrees to the main shaft.

Step Four – Once the epoxy has cured, proceed to installing the tail motor and tail blade assembly onto the holder. Wrap the wire around the boom and plug it into the main board like the old one did.



ENJOY!

EXTRA BATTERY MOUNT

This mod is just how I added an additional battery mount which helped balance out the COG with the heavy tail.

Materials Needed:

Epoxy
Extra or broken landing gear
Xacto or Dremel to cut with.
Sand paper

Start by cutting out the battery tray from donor landing gear.
Scuff up the bottom flat side with sandpaper to let the epoxy bond with it
Then just epoxy the piece and let dry




Just an idea of what it moves like in 25mph winds with these upgrades
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T-v0WbjneE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poHj47DMIfI&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]

Sticky it Bob! Any other additional info that we come up with I'll continue to add so it'll keep everything on one page. Thanks to everyone that contributed these unique upgrades

[Finless]

OK I asked so-fly if he would put all his mods into one post rather than the 5 or so he has. This is getting stuck at the top as it's good info for extreme modders!

Bob

[DVS]

Very cool thank you

[Chopp@]

Sick!

[gunshine]

Thanks this is great stuff all in one place.

[carpo]

hi bob i use to fly some walkera micro heli and i have one of this for the tail ..take a look maybe can help u with the tail

http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/product_...oducts_id=7704


for shure novus have the same motor or convertion

big hugh

[shock]

Great writeup, very useful information for us mCPx lovers.

[astrorobb]

amazing thread. thank you!

[Sniperp]

with these mods and the extra weight, bigger motor, bigger tail rotor, second battery, can you still do acrobatic flight and inverted flying. Just curious becaus i use this thing to "train" on my larger helis so as long as with these upgrade i can get inverted and keep it there ill be doing them.
BTW im still using the stock batteries so how will these updrages effect my flight times

[Griff1]

Its hard to tell what arrangement you settled on battery wise.
Are you using an 120sr pack and a stock pack or 2 stock pack's?

[Sniperp]

So-fly PM sent out

[so-fly]

I was running two stock lipos, I'll get a test flight with a single lipo and maintained headspeed to show the difference

[subgradient]

Is it possible to do a tail boom with 1.8mm CF rods? That seems to be all the LHS has in stock.

[so-fly]

3.5 min flight time idle up, 4min normal flight

[Sniperp]

Do toy notice a big drop in performance at time clicks down or is it pretty stable all along

[so-fly]

Consistent head speed with no changes. If I drain the battery all the way approximately 5 mins it just falls out of the sky like a rock lol

If I turn the head speed up to 100% idle up I'm looking at a 2 min flight and a stock tail motor hating on me

[Sniperp]

cool, cant wait till thursday now when i get my parts in.

[Sniperp]

WOW is all i can say, so far ive only been able to feel the tail rotor and my god is that thing powerfull, i cut i bit to wide and deep on the frame and now my motor and main gear wont mesh so looks like a run to my LHS for a main frame, UGG. So-fly did you have to revers the rudder when you put in the 120 tail motor because mine just wants to constantly run now and go into a death spiral?

[so-fly]

If you file the main output shaft the stock pinion will fit and you will not have to extend the motor mount slots. As for the tail you will have to flip the wire that plugs into either the main board or the motor. The sr colors are a bit different

[Sniperp]

Ok got the tail working correctly and used an old frame to do a test flight and wow what a difference. Pitch pumps are awsome an forward flight in wind is spot on. Didn't try inverted because the tail is loose, filed to much, and didn't have a comply on, the old frame I used the posts had snapped off, will run to my LHS today and pick up a new frame then do some real flight testing. So-fly thank you so much for posting the set-up and the help you provided. Those completly changed the bird for the better.