Which ESC's are compatible to the Hobbywing program card

[Newbe from the bay]

I am at present building a King 2 and have bought a mystery outrunner brushless motor and mystery 30a ESC the problem is I can't program the esc with the card as the card just lights up and thats it. I was reading a piece of info on google that states that mystery 30a esc are not compatible with the hobbywing card. What I would like to know is what esc would you suggest I buy and will it be compatible with programing card. If anyone can help please get back to me.
cheers!!!!!!!!!!

[DumbDawg]

Hobbywing of course and EMax esc's are the same... If the whole card lights up chances are its cooked... I have the same esc's, HobbyWings, and tried using the card with a flyerMate esc... It cooked it and would no longer work with the hobbywings...

Mystery esc's are not that great of esc's but will work... buy the HobbyWing if you want a GOOD esc... 40A's have the switching bec's installed which are far superior to linear bec's which most esc's have... its the bec's which cause the bulk of heating rpoblems...

happy heli'n

[Newbe from the bay]

Do you mean its usless cause I haven't even tried it with the motor yet would it be worth trying to program the esc via theTX? or is it completely shot

[Newbe from the bay]

Are esc's not supposed to get hot because the small esky esc that came with the brushed motor gets hot I thought it was normal I must be wrong. What has caused the esc to blow? could it be the lipo cause its only an 11.1 1000mAh. Is there anyway of checking or testing the esc to find out if it has fried, talk about doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anything else to go wrong.

[DumbDawg]

Look at ur documentation for the esc and see if it has programmable functions, most likely only Brake ON/Off... If it has more then yes you should be able to program it using the Tx... Like throttle stick position(safety feature)...

The Esky esc's are junk period, so don't waste anymore money buying them... IMO the ONLY thing ESky makes for components worth buying are the motors, 3900 & 3800Kv. You have no choice but to buy the plastic stock bits from them but everything else can be bought from other suppliers.

The ESky esc's are a KNOWN problem part... they tend to over heat and poof!!! burn out with some smoke or burst into flames... And NO you did nothing wrong... The batteries only try to deliver what the motor calls for in current. With batteries the K2 can handle up to a 2200mAh battery which will make the heli somewhat sluggish... BUT, the nice thing with these is it helps tame the heli down some and they are great for doing basics like hovering, figure 8's etc etc... For more aggressive flying then choose batteries in the 15 - 1800mAh range and with thelargest 'C' rating you can find.... Zippy batteries are the batteries of choice giving more bang for the buck...

The esc's you buy have linear bec's built in them... The linear bec's are what causes heat and are more unreliable than those esc's with switching bec's... The esc, with linear bec's, dump current as heat to supply the servo's and Rx etc with the correct voltage they require... Switching bec's do the same thing but switch off'n/on very quickly to end up with the same result and no, very little, heat is generated... So there are a few things you can do... Continue buying esc's with linear bec's but buy 30 - 40A esc's... Or buy an esc with or without a bec built in... Without a built in bec YOU have to wire in a bec to work alongside ur esc.... The simplest is to buy a esc with a switching bec built in... The EMax/ HobbyWing esc's at 40A ratings or better all have switching bec's built in... This is the better route to go, IMO... For many reasons...

Hope this answers a few questions..

happy heli'n

[Newbe from the bay]

Cheers!!!!!! you have put my mind at rest, the damn esc hasn't had any use at all, so hopefully it can still be programed. The small green esky esc has had only minimal use from when I did a power test using the original motor, but nothing since then. I bought the outrunner brushless and esc because of all the good advice I was getting from you guy's on helifreak, but when you are not in the know one brushless motor is the same as the other. I tell you something when I tried to program the esc with the hobbywing card it didn't work so I got in touch with the guy I bought it from and he said it was faulty and sent me another one, now that it is proven to be the esc I have two prefectly working programing cards so you see something good has come out of it.What I am going to do is buy a good esc probably one that is not below 30a and not from those sellers on ebay from Hong Kong!!!! I'll keep you informed about my progress and hopefully have the damn heli flying.

[DumbDawg]

Well. done... We'll get you up and flying soon...

happy heli'n

[Newbe from the bay]

I've just got the main function list on the back of the esc pack it says its main functions are safety mode, brake setting, three point battery type and low voltage selection, software reversion of motor turning direction, Low current protection, Temperature protection, P.W.M. frequency: 8KHZ/16KHZ, this is the only instructions I have got with the esc , can you make any idea of them and is the esc shot or is it ok?
I'm sorry to keep asking you all these questions but all I want to do is get the heli flying. I know next time I'll get one ready built, you know what its like I just wanted to build my own to see if could do it.
Anyway heres hoping

[DumbDawg]

No worries... Thats what the forums are for... Glad to help in any way I can...

As for the esc I can't quite see that far so I can't tell if its shot or not...

it says its main functions are safety mode, brake setting, three point battery type and low voltage selection, software reversion of motor turning direction, Low current protection, Temperature protection, P.W.M. frequency: 8KHZ/16KHZ, this is the only instructions I have got with the esc

Brake = OFF , 3-point battery = LIPO, Low Voltage = on/off ( mines of because I use a timer), Temp Protection is automatic, pwm freq - not sure... have to read doc...

helps???

[Newbe from the bay]

I have sent an email to the firm I bought the motor and esc from to see if they can help in any way hopefully they might send me another esc.
Are esc's supposed to get warm or hot even if they are not working? because when I have plugged the programing card into the esc apart from most of the lights coming on and not being able to program anything the esc still gets warm. Power must be going into the damn thing shouldn't it? I did read something about the esc having to be armed how do you arm it.

[DumbDawg]

By giving it a smalls arms... LOL... a PPK like bond used to carry should work...

[Newbe from the bay]

tell you what! firing it out of a cannon wouldn't be so bad the bloody thing!! I am tempted to take it down to our local power station its only five minutes away and its atomic!!!
I think its time to give up the chase and buy a new esc you never know in about 20 years I might be flying the heli for once ha ha!!!!!!!!
Anyway from this side of the atlantic thank you and catch you soon.
You've been a great and its been a pleasure talking to you

All the best.

[Newbe from the bay]

I have just ordered myself a Turborix 30a esc from a local heli dealer, have I done the right thing ? its cost me about £15.oo about $22 DumbDawg lets hope that this one works because if this fails I am selling up and taking up needlework ha ha!!!!!!!!!!
I must admit this one does look a bit better than the last one plus its not from ebay and the far east. I will give the guy from Hong Kong his due, he has sent me the operating instructions for the mystery 30a pentium anyway I can give it a try. Anyway all mighty one cheers for now.

[DumbDawg]

LOL.... well... lets certainly hope it works as needle point just isn't as exciting as heli's... Close but not quite there... Quilting might do the trick as it can be hugely social too..

Good luck and we'll all be standing by waiting to see ho you make out with the esc...

happy heli'

[Newbe from the bay]

Hi Buddy, still having problems with the thing, I've checked every part and each one power's up when not connected to the esc or receiver. I do know the esc is working because I haven't even done anything out of the ordinary with it.
So now I'm thinking check each lead seperate and see if current is passing through, so I've ordered a circuit tester with meter so that it should show current passing through or not.
Hopefully this should help sort the thing out.

Catch you soon

Duncan

[DumbDawg]

Originally Posted by Newbe from the bay

I've checked every part and each one power's up when not connected to the esc or receiver. I do know the esc is working because I haven't even done anything out of the ordinary with it.
Duncan

Hey Duncan... Let me get this straight... So when everything is connected and you power it up the servo's do NOT react or the gyro does NOT initialize??? BUT when not connected to the esc everything works???

If his is the case then it can only be one of two things... the Rx or the esc... Simple test... Take a servo you know works and connect it to the Rx directly... Power up and move the stick inputs for that channel and see if the servo moves... If the servo moves then the Rx is fine... No movement then that channel may be gone and try all the channels... No movement on any channel then the Rx is toast. If the Rx is fine then the esc is toast...

I've had brand new... solder on some deans and bullets, install and nuth'n... didn't get powered up... or in the air... I've had new Mystery 30A esc's just go ompletely funky on me out the gate as well... So it doesn't matter if you've done any flying with it yet or not... They can be DOA even before taking them out of the package... You'll find this more on the really cheap esc's... Hope this helps some...

happy heli'n

ps... Just thought of something else... when you connect the servo to a channel to test the Rx pay attention to how the servo horn moves thru-out the stick movements... if it jerky or sporadic then the Tx has dirty pot syndrome and needs cleaning... ESky Tx's are bad for having pots dirty very quickly which affects inputs obviously...

[Newbe from the bay]

I just thought of something, has most of the sanwa systems a 3D switch? I'm going to read up on it to see if it has. Because I saw a piece on youtube saying something about 3D mode or something like that. Could this possibly be the problem or cause something like it?

[DumbDawg]

Well the K2's have a 3D switch for sure... Its the one on the left at the rear of the Tx... It should be clicked so it forward towards you... away from you is in 3D mode... And yes most esc's will not allow the heli to spool up if its in 3D mode... its a safety feature... Should have mentioned this earlier sorry...

happy fly'n

[Newbe from the bay]

cheers buddy thats great I'm going to give it a try when I've had my dinner. The instruction book is rather confusing because of the different settings for aeros and heli's, I think I might trade this one in for a spectrum they look a bit easier to handle anyway I'll keep you informed.
Catch you later, sooner if I've had success.

Duncan

[Newbe from the bay]

When you think it couldn't get any worse, a wire on the servo breaks question is there a master reset on most transmitters? because I'm thinking maybe reboot the tx and rx and maybe it might decide to work because theres no way on earth that the motors duff as I do know power is going into it. I'm almost certain its a programing problem and something that I have done that has put the esc and motor into safety mode. Anyway should have my circuit tester tomorrow so I should be able to check everything, plus servo's are inexpensive and my local shop sells them for around £6.50 about $10 in your money. What I am thinking about is changing the TX for a Spektrum DX5 or 6 because they look abit more user friendly and I should be able to pick one second hand and I should get a good trade in for mine.
Anyway catch you later buddy

Duncan