The Official Rotormast "V22 Osprey" Build Thread

[v22chap]

billyd
I can answer that for you . as I had two that bound up a little and talked to Tom about it ...

The directions call for you to push it in with a screw driver and rotate it with pressure to seat it good .
Mine didn't want to seat as I didn't push really hard or rotate it . So I had a build up of loctite from the first attempt in there pushing it back too .

I took a 7/32" drill bit and with my hand rotated it against the spindle hole in the head and removed the built up loctite and also any alum burrs that might have been there and the several blade grips in question freed up . I actually made a little counter sink on the hole .
I also used a thin screw driver to scrap any other loctite off the area that the spindle head seats against .

The oring and washer are old manual and some how have not been removed from some of the early kits .

The washer between the bearings is also the old manual drawing yet and has some how not been deleted yet.
It doesn't need to be there ... Just use the wide cage radial bearing on the out side of the grip and it will be o.k.
There is a long story that goes along with this ,,, but this setup (2 narrow and one wider radial bearings in the grips ) is what Tom has been flying for the last 3 or so yrs and has not had any problems with this setup .


There is also a good FAQ's section on Rotormast page and it also has an email address at the bottom that is the quickest way to get answers from Tom .

http://www.rotormast.com/rm/index.ph...faq&Itemid=190
Hope this helps ya
Larry

[v22chap]

billyd
You might also look at the spindle axle itself and make sure there are no burrs on the head of each one that would space it out a little to much .
Larry

[billyd]

Thanks V22 very helpful. Once you told me I was assembling it correctly, I took a closer look at what was causing the binding. For me it was some burrs on the end of the blade grip at the perimeter of the innermost bearing. I was able to carefully file these down and it resolved the issue.

Other than that the kits' going together well. But I will say it is a bit confusing which hardware to use where, since the instruction use p/n's like 292-1 for a screw, but I can't find the corresponding p/n and descriptions in the parts lists. So there is a fair amount of guessing. Also there are a few places in the nacelle assemblies where the views show the wrong hand part from time to time. lol it's fun though.

[v22chap]

Ya ,, the instructions went together to fast and aren't quite up to par and it does make it interesting at times . and to top it off it is a hard model to illustrate and talk about in manual form .. but a good model builder can usually figure it out and it sounds like you have ,,,, keep up the good work ... you are going to like the feel of this bird ,, It is just awsome to see an airplane setting there hovering and doing what you are telling it to do and then to start a conversion ,,the first little bump into a conversion and your adreniline will jump as will the bird

[Lubebosch]

Did anyone tried the V-22 in RealFlight? Is the behaviour similar to the model? I ordered the Rotormast one, and I would like to practice before flying it. Here in Europe it's not easy to find spares. It took more than two months to see the availability of kit stock at the European distributor website.
Thanks for your help
Luigi

[v22chap]

In the early realflight 2.5 or below it was o.k. but after that they messed it up by using the harrier controls ... so it doesn't fly at all like the real V or Rotormast's


Rotormast's in fact flys very much like a single rotor heavy scale bird . That would be my suggestion to you .... fly one of the scale military ships in realflight and that will prepare you for the V as puffer jets on the wing tip of a V just don't cut it !!!

[Lubebosch]

Thanks Larry.
Is there a special model you would suggest?
Luigi

[v22chap]

Probably the Huey ... I will try and remember to fire up 3.5 and try it for you and let you know .
Now I have not flown the newer than 3.5 flight sims ... but I bet they are the same ... suspect it takes up less GB by using the harrier controls on the V too ... to bad they didn't do it the other way around .

[billyd]

Just wondering about two small things.

Is there supposed to be two wired connectors included in the kit to connect the motor rpm sensors to the motors? I didn't get those, not a big deal I can make them, just wondering. (this is the small gauge wired connector coming off one of the three motor wire male bullet connectors in the instructions.)

Second question is do the spinner caps for the rotors (for the scale model) get included in the scale fuse or should I have gotten those with the standard kit? I don't have those either and the fuse in en route to me, probably won't see that for a few more weeks.

[hoot]

Originally Posted by billyd

Just wondering about two small things.

Is there supposed to be two wired connectors included in the kit to connect the motor rpm sensors to the motors? I didn't get those, not a big deal I can make them, just wondering. (this is the small gauge wired connector coming off one of the three motor wire male bullet connectors in the instructions.)

Second question is do the spinner caps for the rotors (for the scale model) get included in the scale fuse or should I have gotten those with the standard kit? I don't have those either and the fuse in en route to me, probably won't see that for a few more weeks.

Check to see if those connectors are attached to the Wire Integration boards. We all made the same missing part report but there they were.

Spinners come with the fuse.

Mike

[billyd]

Got it thanks. Yup they are there. Easy to miss. Thanks for the info.

[hoot]

Get yourself a tube of GOOP from Home Depot or Lowes. It's a clear sealant/glue. Put some on the ends of the Wiring Interface board where the wires are soldered to it. Spread it up the wires about 1/4-3/8" or so and onto the board. It will cure nice and smooth and flexible. This will help keep the solder joints nice and safe from vibrations. Do the same with the little connectors for the conversion servo pots. You want those wires/connections stabilized.

[billyd]

Originally Posted by hoot

Get yourself a tube of GOOP from Home Depot or Lowes. It's a clear sealant/glue. Put some on the ends of the Wiring Interface board where the wires are soldered to it. Spread it up the wires about 1/4-3/8" or so and onto the board. It will cure nice and smooth and flexible. This will help keep the solder joints nice and safe from vibrations. Do the same with the little connectors for the conversion servo pots. You want those wires/connections stabilized.

I always have GOOP on hand it's the best glue there is. Very strong stuff and maintains flexibility. Good idea about using it to protect the electronics, will do.

[hellafreaky]

hey guys do you think GOOP would work for installing windows (on a normal heli)?

I plan to use Canopy Glue but I like the idea of a more flexible glue.

[billyd]

Originally Posted by hellafreaky

hey guys do you think GOOP would work for installing windows (on a normal heli)?

I plan to use Canopy Glue but I like the idea of a more flexible glue.

One of it's best uses is on windows. Because while it's curing it rubs off easily, so you can get sloppy and not wreck the canopy glass.

[rcmiket]

+1 just takes forever to dry.
Mike

[kouzlo5]

My first foray into RC, but this model is amazing, and I have to give it a go!

I basically have no pre-existing hardware laying around, so since I'm buying stuff new, I'd like to get whatever is best-suited for the job with this bird. So any recommendations you guys have for the off-the-shelf parts I need to purchase would be greatly appreciated, especially for the gyros.

Here's what I have so far (let me know if I've missed anything):

Main Motors: Scorpion HK-2221-10
Eletronic Speed Controller: CC 45A Phoenix
Battery: Blue LiPo 4-Cell 2200mAh 4S1P 14.8v 30C LiPoly Battery
Gyros: Futaba GY520
Transmitter: Futaba 7C 2.4GHz 7ch Transmitter
Receiver: R617FS Receiver
Cyclic Servos: Airtronics 94761Z
Battery Eliminator Circuit: CC 10A BEC
Capacitors: 470uF 35V Radial Mini Electrolyctic Capacitor by XICON

A brief aside about cyclic servos:

I've read that the Rotormast ones are cheaper but longer, so they make for a tight fit between the servo mounts. Website says they were originally designed for the Airtronics servos, so can I use those? Or did they change the design at all when trying to accommodate the RM ones?

You can be sure I'll post images and updates as it goes together. Right now just trying to get an overall cost estimate, then on to the waiting list I go!

[Borneoben]

Hey Kouzlo

Dont forget that you need
2 Motors
2ESC
3 Gyros
Multiple Good quality Lipo (plus a good charger if you have nothing)
6 cyclic servos
With regards to the BEC you choose CC dont have a great reputaion.
With everything going into the model i think you will need something much higher rated.
I would suggest you look at the Western Robits Hurcules range of BEC. they are in my opinion one of the best available.

On a separate note

I would strongly consider getting Different RC model for your first foray into RC!!
By all means buy this model and take your time to build it correctly but you should also get yourself a decent trainer to learn with.
AND a flight simulator is a must i would say.

Anyway good luck with your project

PS
I wouldnt be suprised if this model will cost you in teh region of 2-3Kusd to build properly with good quality kit and dont forget all the tools and equipment you will also need.

perhaps you should give us a better idea of your background in the RC hobby if any?

[billyd]

Actually it's just 4 cyclic servos, the conversion servos are included in the kit as they are special modified.

This is not a good model for beginners btw. You need a fair amount of knowledge to set this up properly. Also the build leans on the tough side. Don't want to rain on anyone's parade but you should gain some experience with helicopters, flying and setup before attempting this model. Not to mention airplane mode.

[billyd]

Originally Posted by kouzlo5

My first foray into RC, but this model is amazing, and I have to give it a go!

I basically have no pre-existing hardware laying around, so since I'm buying stuff new, I'd like to get whatever is best-suited for the job with this bird. So any recommendations you guys have for the off-the-shelf parts I need to purchase would be greatly appreciated, especially for the gyros.

Here's what I have so far (let me know if I've missed anything):

Main Motors: Scorpion HK-2221-10
Eletronic Speed Controller: CC 45A Phoenix
Battery: Blue LiPo 4-Cell 2200mAh 4S1P 14.8v 30C LiPoly Battery
Gyros: Futaba GY520
Transmitter: Futaba 7C 2.4GHz 7ch Transmitter
Receiver: R617FS Receiver
Cyclic Servos: Airtronics 94761Z
Battery Eliminator Circuit: CC 10A BEC
Capacitors: 470uF 35V Radial Mini Electrolyctic Capacitor by XICON

A brief aside about cyclic servos:

I've read that the Rotormast ones are cheaper but longer, so they make for a tight fit between the servo mounts. Website says they were originally designed for the Airtronics servos, so can I use those? Or did they change the design at all when trying to accommodate the RM ones?

You can be sure I'll post images and updates as it goes together. Right now just trying to get an overall cost estimate, then on to the waiting list I go!

The servo fit is tough. There aren't any servos that are plug and play currently (outside of the Airtronics) although Tom is working on new side plates that will allow better fit.

Fitting the Hitec 5085 mg's is on the tough side, but they are still the best choice for this model. Here's how I fit mine:

Trim 1.6mm off of each servo tab such that the over all length of the servo is reduced by 3.2mm. Next trim 1.6mm off of each white servo mounting bracket (in the kit) off the base of the "L" shape such that the shortest length between the pairs of "L's" (they face each other to create a tray) is increased by 3.2mm. Finally, make (qty 8x) 8.5mm x 4mm rectangular washers out of ABS plastic (2-3mm thick) (or aluminum or CF) and drill a 2mm hole in the center of the rectangle.

Using 2mm x 6mm long socket cap screws install the servos with the washers sandwiching on top of the partial servo tabs and self tap the screws into the L shaped mounting brackets.

Ps: I was unable to find a substitution for the Airtronics servo that was a plug and play fit. Tom told me he had trouble with the Airtronics servo (failures) and doesn't recommend them, he said the Hitecs are more reliable and cheaper.