Outrage Velocity Fuel Tank

[Foxden]

Good Morning Folks,

I was asked about the washer and nut for the fuel tank nipple, I went and looked at my early release of the manual and it doesn't show the detail of the washer and nut, I'm assuming because I was asked that it isn't clearly defined in the final release, although this type of tank nipple has been used in the industry for years for someone to ask the question it might not be that clear for someone just getting the Vel 50 as there first nitro machine.

The threaded end of the nipple goes to the outside of the tank and the washer goes against the rubber grommet, then the nut secures everything in place.

Hope this helps, happy building

[JAGNZ]

Same as on the K3D!

[billbill242000]

I have a complaint.....I can't seem to get my OMI Fuel Magnet through the hole....hole is 9.85mm or so and the furl magnet is almost 12mm. If there is a trick I will have to get ya to show me at IRCHA....I went ahead and used the stock clunk for now.

[JAGNZ]

I had the same issue with my K3D and OS Bubbless - it wouldn't fit. I had to chuck the BB up in a drill and run it up against my bench grinder to grind it down so it would fit. It works but the grinding meant that many of the individual balls are now one unit, making it more like a traditional Clunk than I'd really like. Anyone have a kit and using an OS BB to tell us how it fit?

[fsusmithc2]

Originally Posted by billbill242000

I have a complaint.....I can't seem to get my OMI Fuel Magnet through the hole....hole is 9.85mm or so and the furl magnet is almost 12mm. If there is a trick I will have to get ya to show me at IRCHA....I went ahead and used the stock clunk for now.

Yet another reason for me not to mess with a fuel magnet again. I was planing on just using the stock clunk anyway. Fuel mags do their job but they're not without their quirks.

[ClayK]

To add, I would definitely recommend putting fuel line on the tank (exhaust and carb lines) and route as appropriate before you get too far in build.

[JAGNZ]

Ok, I have worked out a solution for FM/OS Bubbless users.

I enlarged the tank hole using my Dremel and a drum wheel. I opened it enough to fit a BB Clunk. Then I took a short piece (about 3mm) of standard fuel tubing and slid it down over the tank nipple (I opened the tubing up with Forceps/Hemostats) and down on to the flat area where the tank bung sits on the nipple. The fuel line significantly tightens the tolerance between the nipple and the bung so that when you tighten the nut down it will still seal in the enlarged tank hole. So, using all of the stock parts you can get a FM or BB in the tank.

For future kits, an enlarged hole and slightly larger diameter nipple/bung combo will do the same thing.

Hope this helps.

[JaggedEdge]

Maybe drill out the hole and pick up an Align grommet and nipple?

http://www.readyheli.com/HN6083_Fuel...o_p/hn6083.htm

[JAGNZ]

Yes, of course there are numerous other options but this one uses what is in your kit and costs nothing.

[raptorheli2]

folks, i have posted this on HF before in other threads.

i have modded my fuel tank so the clunk is OUTSIDE the frames. all you need is a vibe 50 bung set (align one works but i'd get the vibe one as will be better for pressure system if you run a YS), ream a hole, put fuel mag in and job done.

cheers

[beans07]

Originally Posted by JAGNZ

Ok, I have worked out a solution for FM/OS Bubbless users.

I enlarged the tank hole using my Dremel and a drum wheel. I opened it enough to fit a BB Clunk. Then I took a short piece (about 3mm) of standard fuel tubing and slid it down over the tank nipple (I opened the tubing up with Forceps/Hemostats) and down on to the flat area where the tank bung sits on the nipple. The fuel line significantly tightens the tolerance between the nipple and the bung so that when you tighten the nut down it will still seal in the enlarged tank hole. So, using all of the stock parts you can get a FM or BB in the tank.

For future kits, an enlarged hole and slightly larger diameter nipple/bung combo will do the same thing.

Hope this helps.

Do you have any pictures of this?

[JAGNZ]

Originally Posted by beans07

Do you have any pictures of this?

Sorry, aint taking it out to get pictures. It is just as described.

[beans07]

I have re-read a few times and now understand. The bung got me for a start.

Will try otherwise I have a trex600 setup laying around I can try.

[JAGNZ]

Sorry, bung = plug.

[wren1702]

Originally Posted by JAGNZ

Sorry, bung = plug.

When I saw this....I immediately thought about this video and started LMAO.....

Bung Hole....

[Eric Brandenburg]

I need fuel magnet for mi Bunghole!

[kazager]

I said bung hole at work, in reference to a 55 gallon drum and got laughs. It's funny how a good vocabulary can get you ridiculed, you Hillbillys have it easy! Such low expectations, must be nice!

[JeffPfeifer]

I am using a header tank with great results, and it allows me to fully drain the main tank flying 3D which allows for much better flight times. I know it is a bit old school, but hey it works. As for the header tank mount, it is really simple, I don't use a typical header tank mount. I take some 100 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the heli side of the header tank, and also lightly scuff the right side of the main tank. Apply a coating of ShoeGoo on the scuffed surface of the header tank and join to the main tank. Then I take a long velcro strap and wrap around both tanks for added security. Let dry, and go fly!

[ClayK]

Originally Posted by JeffPfeifer

I am using a header tank with great results, and it allows me to fully drain the main tank flying 3D which allows for much better flight times. I know it is a bit old school, but hey it works. As for the header tank mount, it is really simple, I don't use a typical header tank mount. I take some 100 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the heli side of the header tank, and also lightly scuff the right side of the main tank. Apply a coating of ShoeGoo on the scuffed surface of the header tank and join to the main tank. Then I take a long velcro strap and wrap around both tanks for added security. Let dry, and go fly!

I've never seen it done like that, but it looks good.

I haven't run a header tank since my Raptor 50 days (so so SOOOO long ago), so I can't really say. The stock clunk works fine in my Velocity. In fact, the only clunks I have ever had a problem with is the Align ones (I hate to mention it here), but I can only get about 3/4 to 2/3 of my tank complete before I start to hear the engine lean. I've always swapped those out with either the ELD (Fuel Magnet) or the OS Bubbleless.

[fsusmithc2]

I like the header tank shoe goo method. Pretty clever I think.

Just a word though guys that the upgraded V50 fuel tank is coming soon. I saw the prototype when Santa Charlie was passing them out to the team at Huntsville and it looks pretty good with the bung on the outside with the hole enlarged to support fuel mag, bubbleless, etc.