DX6i settings for 120SR

[Imzzaudae]

In the DX6i there are 2 types of Model.

ACRO is aircraft mode.

HELI is helicopter mode.


You can create a model in ACRO mode call it 120SR.



Set the aileron and Elevator rates at about 80 expo 25
Rudder 100% no expo.


The helicopter will fly great!

The only thing is that the throttle hold switch does not work in Acro mode.
This does not bother me but others want the throttle hold function.
So!

You can create a helicopter like this.
Model Type: HELI
Model Name: SR120HEL
Reverse: All Normal
Swash Type: 1 SERVO 90°
Thro-Cut: INH
D/R Combi: D/R SW: FM
Timer: SWITCH: INHIBIT
Range Check: INH
Power Setting: B US 247


ADJUST LIST


D/R&Expo: Switches position 0 (Low rates)
Aile 0 80% +20%
Elev 0 80% +20%
Rudd 0 100% 0

I have found it is better to set both sides of your DR switches the same value.
This eliminates surprises when a switch accidentally gets moved.

D/R&Expo: Flight mode Switches position 1
Aile 1 80% +20%
Elev 1 80% +20%
Rudd 1 100% 0

Travel Adj:
All on 100%


Sub Trim:
All on 0


GYRO:
INH


THRO CUR:

NORM POS
POS L 0.0%
POS 2 15%
POS 3 50%
POS 4 75%
POS H 100%



STUNT Not applicable
POS L 0
POS 2 0
POS 3 0
POS 4 0
POS H 0


PITCH CUR:
Leave alone, unused.


SWASH MIX:
INH


MIX1:
INH


MIX2:
INH


REVO MIX:
Al on 0


The settings above are very soft for newbies just starting out flying indoors!
Swash links on short swash balls!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bellow are higher performance settings for more experienced pilots.
And flying outdoors.
Swash links on long balls!



DX6i settings for 120SR


Create a helicopter like this.
Model Type: HELI
Model Name: SR120
Reverse: All Normal
Swash Type: 1 SERVO 90°
Thro-Cut: INH
D/R Combi: D/R SW: FM
Timer: SWITCH: INHIBIT
Range Check: INH
Power Setting: B US 247


ADJUST LIST


D/R&Expo: Switches position 0 (Low rates)
Aile 0 100% +20%
Elev 0 100% +20%
Rudd 0 100% 0

I have found it is better to set both sides of your DR switches the same value.
This eliminates surprises when a switch accidentally gets moved.

D/R&Expo: Switches position 1
Aile 1 100% +20%
Elev 1 100% +20%
Rudd 1 100% 0

Travel Adj:
All on 100%


Sub Trim:
All on 0


GYRO:
INH


THRO CUR:

NORM POS
POS L 0.0%
POS 2 15%
POS 3 50%
POS 4 75%
POS H 100%



STUNT
Not applicable
POS L 0
POS 2 0
POS 3 0
POS 4 0
POS H 0


PITCH CUR:
Not applicable



SWASH MIX:
INH


MIX1:
INH


MIX2:
INH


REVO MIX:
Al on 0%

[whatevva]

I have found it is better to set both sides of your DR switches the same value.
This eliminates surprises when a switch accidentally gets moved.

Seriously? Geez, I find that if I don't fly at all, I never crash! Teach people to use the features of their radio...not disable it. Sport mode can be a very useful tool for newbies to ease up on expo a bit and give it a trial run.

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by whatevva

... Teach people to use the features of their radio...not disable it. ...

I agree. Pilots DO need to be taught about the features on their radio. However, it must be when they are ready for it.

A 120SR is hardly an advanced helicopter. Therefore, it is most likely for a beginner.

For a beginner a computerized TX like a DX6i has as many switches as your average Boeing 747. This hobby has a steep enough learning curve as it is without complicating it further.

Middle ground seems to be:
1) Get beginners flying with minimal fuss (even disabling/ignoring some TX features)
2) Teach said beginners other TX features as they gain the ability to understand and feel the changes.

I use multiple DR & expos and idle up (sport). I do understand all the other settings on the DX6i TX (like travel adjust, mixing, gyro settings, switch combining, etc..) but took a number of weeks to get my head round it all. This amount of learning can scare off a beginner (just trying to get their shiny new 120SR in the air in a controllable manner).

Unfortunately, the DX6i manual does not explain what a particular feature is, just how to set/unset it. If they are lucky, their LHS may set it up for them initially.

As an analogy, you do not teach a kid to change gears on their new bike till they can at least ride it on flat ground without training wheels and without falling over.

[whatevva]

As an analogy, you do not teach a kid to change gears on their new bike till they can at least ride it on flat ground without training wheels and without falling over.

So, based on that statement, do you just tell the child not to change gears? or do you remove them all so he can't accidently change one?

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by whatevva

So, based on that statement, do you just tell the child not to change gears? or do you remove them all so he can't accidently change one?

You do two things. 1) Unhook the cable from the gear change mechanism so that if they do hit the gear lever while they are learning nothing happens. and 2) Tell them where the gear lever is (so when it is connected, they can change gears). The gears are still on the bike, and so is the gear lever, just it does not affect a change while learning. Once they can ride with enough confidence, you (or they) can re-attach the cable to the gear change mechanism. Their "interface" hasn't changed, just some controls that previously did nothing, now do something (and they are aware how this may be different).

Another analogy is an automatic car to a manual one. I can drive both. I learned in an auto first so I could steer, indicate, check mirrors, anticipate traffic etc (without having to worry about the clutch or gears). Once some of these were automatic, then I learned a manual car, so I could select the gear I wanted instead of the car "doing it for me". Some never learn to drive a manual car, but that is THEIR choice.

Another analogy is that we do not teach algebra to grade school students (using the American term). They cannot cope with it. The mental pre-requisites are not in place. Algebra still exists though. It is a useful tool (as a computer professional, I use it daily). At grade school, the problems are simplified to what they can cope with, so students can master the fundamentals without unnecessary complications.

Why in this hobby do we often recommend people start with a coaxial (to learn collective and some cyclic and orientation skills), then move to FP (not as complex, since no collective management, but cyclic skills are more difficult) and finally CP (even more complex cyclic skills, collective and throttle management). Its a learning CURVE. If we give people too much to begin with it becomes a learning CLIFF. It depends on the size of the steps the individual can cope with. Too steep a learning curve and it only discourages the pupil.

How many of us with multiple cyclic DR&expo settings have crashed because the wrong setting was accidentally in place? The heli either moved too fast or too slow to what was anticipated. I have. I've done this at least once with my nano while learning CP (and I had a pretty good idea what I was doing then).

If this all sounds defensive, please do not take it a such. Nor is is supposed to be aggressive. (I do not "reject your reality and substitute my own" ). This is my philosophy, each are entitled their own. All advice given on HF is free. Let the one who uses it decide what to do. I am just happy to articulate the reasoning behind my beliefs (I enjoy this as sometimes it helps to clear up my own misconceptions).

[whatevva]

You do two things. 1) Unhook the cable from the gear change mechanism so that if they do hit the gear lever while they are learning nothing happens. and 2) Tell them where the gear lever is (so when it is connected, they can change gears). The gears are still on the bike, and so is the gear lever, just it does not affect a change while learning. Once they can ride with enough confidence, you (or they) can re-attach the cable to the gear change mechanism. Their "interface" hasn't changed, just some controls that previously did nothing, now do something (and they are aware how this may be different).

First...we're just discussing...not defensive or argumentive..see, I'm smiling

Ok, nobody disconnects gear cables...tell them where it is, yes.

Same for the mode switch.."here it is..here's what it does"..set it to 5 less on the expo (+15 and +20 on normal or whatever)..then explain that when he or she is comfortable, flip the switch...if it happens by accident..oh well, not the end of the world. I just found it to be an extremely useful tool in learning how to fly. Soon my sport became my normal and sport became more aggressive, etc


Oh, and I can drive a standard

[ArchmageAU]

Originally Posted by whatevva

First...we're just discussing...not defensive or argumentive..see, I'm smiling

I'm cool with that. Hey, I'm smiling too.

Originally Posted by whatevva

Ok, nobody disconnects gear cables...tell them where it is, yes.

Same for the mode switch.."here it is..here's what it does"..set it to 5 less on the expo (+15 and +20 on normal or whatever)..then explain that when he or she is comfortable, flip the switch...if it happens by accident..oh well, not the end of the world. I just found it to be an extremely useful tool in learning how to fly. Soon my sport became my normal and sport became more aggressive, etc

Cool with that too.

When I started on the nano, I programmed the listed expos for DX6i (100/30 and 85/30). This was my first CP and my first programmable radio. One of my earliest crashes was due to over-correcting because I had "accidentally" switched from 85/30 to 100/30 (I often fly in a small area). If I had set the DR&expos to the same value, I am convinced this particular crash would not have happened. This is why I advocates suggest DR&expo to the same value (unless you actively choose to use multiple values).

On the good side, it taught me something. (Like check your switches before spool-up).

btw, I currently have 100/15 on both DR&expo settings (used for inside and out).

Originally Posted by whatevva

Oh, and I can drive a standard

Cool. Me too Both current cars are auto's. Previous was a standard.

[whatevva]

Cool. Me too Both current cars are auto's. Previous was a standard.

I have a 6 speed toy

[Tom French]

Thanks, I have two 120sr's, and only one Blade TX, now I have one TX for each heli.

[chawjubs]

This is great. Just got the dx6i and with these settings I feel it's really brought my 120 to life!

Thanks!

[Pfloyd]

A much better setting is the following. It will really fly great! Been using this setup since the 120sr came out and Heli-Bones made these settings!

This is how i have mine set up.
D/R Expo
AILE 0 100% +20
ELEV 0 100% +20
RUDD 0 100% +20
Now flip all ypur switches to the "1" position...
AIEL 1 100% +15
ELEV 1 100% +15
RUDD 1 100% +15

TRAVEL ADJUST...all 100%

SUB TRIM ...all 0

RATE SW-GYRO
0:<100.0%
1: 0.0%

THROTTLE CURVE
NORM POS L 0.0%
POS 2 43.0%
POS 3 51.5%
POS 4 80.0%
POS H 100.0%
STUNT POS L 0.0%
POS 2 40.0%
POS 3 60.0%
POS 4 80.0%
POS H 100.0%

HOLD - 0.0%

PITCH CURVE ...not used its a FP heli!

SWASH MIX INH

MIX 1 INH

MIX 2 INH

REVO MIX all 0%

SET UP LIST:
MODEL TYPE HELI

REVERSE all N

SWASH TYPE 1 servo 90*

THRO CUT position INH

D/R COMBI D/R switch: INH

That should get you going.
I use the gyro switch to switch between high and low rate.
All switches..elev,aile,rudd have two feels to them one with + 20 expo and the other with +15...you can change these to suit your taste.
I like to have two settings...one for flying around and the other for landing.
I use the gear/f.mode switch to togle between two throttle curves.
I hope this can help you out,if you have any questions i'll help if i can.
Heli Bones.