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Lynx Heli Innovations Lynx Heli Innovations - Heli Upgrades - Factory Support Forum |
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10-21-2016, 07:06 AM | #81 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Northern, VA
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Coming from someone who has two RKH framed 230s, I would say that the little extra you have to go through for Lynx frame is probably worth it.
The RKH frame is nice but it has two very weak areas that can likely be damaged in even seemingly minor crashes. The first one is linked below. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rakon-CNC-AL...YAAOSwX~dWiE2f The problem with this piece is it will get a twist on it in a crash. Doesn't always happen and can be flattened back out, although good luck getting it perfect. The second area is the tail. It has two very minor rings that hold the tail boom to the frame and the tail boom supports. They can be very easily damaged as well. The boom will survive very well but these pieces will not do so well. I have found however, that if you use longer screws (just 2 or more mm longer) in all the pieces holding the tail together they will last a lot longer. So I vote against the RKH frame for anyone wanting to transition to cf. As you can see by the link above, the pieces are not cheap and after just 2 of these, your frame cost has nearly doubled. I have had my two framed this way for about 800 or so total flights.
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11-08-2016, 10:19 PM | #82 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Finally got around to building the Lynx cf frame for the 230s. I could not take it for a flight yet this evening. Too dark. Spinned it up and it seems to be okay. I'll find out tomorrow morning.
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11-09-2016, 12:23 PM | #83 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Not sure what is going on with it but when it spools up it's smooth with little vibration. When it hits the highest rpm in normal mode and is beginning to lift it starts to viberate alot. I checked the new blades out to make sure they were balanced and have the right tension on them in the blade grips. My main shaft is fine as well. Not sure what is up with it. Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
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11-09-2016, 04:36 PM | #84 (permalink) |
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can you post a video? This will give a better visual for people to help.
Sounds like a balance issue. Maybe different number of shims per side in main grips. OR to high of head gains. Video would help a lot. |
11-09-2016, 06:09 PM | #85 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Holly cow! Didn't intend on calling in the calvary for this problem. I'll post a video of it tomorrow morning. Too dark now and the 230s is not a good chopper for me to be hovering inside the house.
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11-09-2016, 07:16 PM | #86 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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Try strapping your battery down differently. Tighter, looser, etc. The AR636 is very sensitive to vibes. I just use heavy duty velcro on the tray and batteries without the strap at all. Running the battery loose was even suggested by Brian Bremer, the Horizon guy who's on this heli. If you thought you had it right before, that may have gone out the window with an entirely new frame.
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11-10-2016, 07:27 AM | #87 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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11-10-2016, 09:33 AM | #88 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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A metal swash is definitely a good upgrade. I put a Microheli metal one on mine pretty much right out of the box. I would have preferred Lynx, but they didn't come out with one until much later. I have hundreds of flights on my 230S and the swash is still smooth and slop free. Got a good one from MH this time as I haven't been so lucky with their stuff in the past. I personally can't stand stock Blade plastic swashplates. And, especially on the 230S where they give you good metal balls on the servo arms and blade grips and put a swash with plastic balls right in the middle.
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11-10-2016, 11:23 AM | #89 (permalink) | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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It's alright now. I made an adjustment before going out to video it. I took some of the play out of the main shaft by pushing the sleeve down closer to the top bearing block and what do you know. It flew well. I tried it before yesterday but must not have gotten it right. This time it worked. I think the bottom of the main shaft was rubbing on the rx a little when I would go full collective. No damage to the rx other than a minor scuff mark and you can't even see it where it's located anyhow. I'll post the video of the test hover anyhow for sigils. I'm a little surprised in the video that it flying well with out the expected vibrations
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11-10-2016, 11:32 AM | #90 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: -
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Looks good now I wish the winds were that calm here today. Now rake those leaves .. hehe .. we just finished that chore this morning.
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11-10-2016, 11:35 AM | #91 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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11-10-2016, 11:57 AM | #94 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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11-11-2016, 08:49 AM | #95 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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It does sound different. Not sure why either. The pinion and main gear are rotating smoothly and are not binding. The blades and head spin just as freely as before the frame swap. Could be an echo from the motor and main gear inside the new cf frame. That's what I'm thinking or hoping. It flys great. I didn't really do anything to the head (outside of the directions) except change the collar position. All I had to do was center my servos and make sure the Lynx ball links that came with the new frame were the same length. Didn't have to level my swash with a tool. It hovers really well for me almost hands free and haven't done a trim flight on it yet. In my video I'm pumping the collective to try to get it to vibrate not really focusing on hovering too much. |
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11-18-2016, 10:02 AM | #96 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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I had a couple of crashes. The last one it hit so hard on the tail boom that it broke in half. Amazingly, the tail blade was fine and there is no damage to the frame or wires to the rotor. So, I only had to replace the tail boom and put some tape on the canopy. It flys but now has a moderate drift to the left. I can not do a trim flight on it that I know of because you have to program the aileron and elevator back to normal (instead of reverse required with the Lynx frame) to enter that mode. The problem with that is I can't do a trim flight if the two servos and not reversed. I also tried to center the servos as well. My tx is a dx7 gen 2. Any ideas or suggestions? I still fly it but it's a little annoying with the drift.
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11-19-2016, 04:29 PM | #97 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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You should still be able to enter trim flight. If I remember correctly, you just have to place the right TX stick in the opposite position that the blade manual asked for. (that is if you only have reversed the AIL and ELEV).
Mind you that my settings were accomplished with a dx6i and the reversing might be different.
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04-15-2017, 10:55 AM | #98 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
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I ended up just taking off in Stunt 1 and flying in Stunt 1 and Stunt 2. Flew three batteries w/o any issues...did loops, flips, etc. however, when I hit the bailout to test it, it immediately started drifting to the left (no wind), so I know it needs a trim flight. Any help would be appreciated. Last edited by Marc_RC Heli; 04-18-2017 at 12:50 PM.. |
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