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450 PRO Class Electric Helicopters 450 PRO Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 05-01-2012, 04:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Best way to remove stripped screws from 450 pro frame?

Okay I can drill them but I fear I will ruin the threads where the screw is screwed in to. Any tricks to this? Thanks!

(Mine are stripped on the tail boom mount)

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Old 05-01-2012, 04:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Use a dremel (or other rotary cutoff tool) to cut a notch in the screw head, then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Use a dremel (or other rotary cutoff tool) to cut a notch in the screw head, then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it.
+1
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisH View Post
Use a dremel (or other rotary cutoff tool) to cut a notch in the screw head, then use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew it.
+1 works every time.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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One small suggestion. You might want to look at getting high quality hex tools like MIP or Hudy. They're made of super strong steel and fit a lot better. If you take the time to seat them properly, you'll never strip another screw.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Is there a place to buy a set of mip's or hudy hexdrivers? I can only find 1 at a time for the mips...
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i removed 9 screws tonight on a used 450 pro i bought.. i used the dremel slice screwdriver method..works well. also i used and sometimes its works great if deep enough a screw extractor from a auto parts place or home depot.. etc that can save alot of time also fit in areas where dremel cant cut the screw.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Anyone have a good idea about how to remove a sheared screw sitting flush with the surface? The screw is about 1/16" in diameter.

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Old 05-02-2012, 12:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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see if you can remove ..i'm assuming the heli frame the screw is flush with??
if so then remove as much as you can to get to some of the threads and then try a needle nose pliers.. to work it free kinda pain in ass but)
other i dea was try drill it .... then use a screw extractor tiny one..good luck
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Anyone have a good idea about how to remove a sheared screw sitting flush with the surface? The screw is about 1/16" in diameter.

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if its in metal..heat it up real hot and use a sharp pointed steel tool to spin out the thread.
while it is still hot push the thread around with the point of the tool.
chris
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Is there a place to buy a set of mip's or hudy hexdrivers? I can only find 1 at a time for the mips...
I use MIPs. They only come one by one. They're expensive but definitely worth the money.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Be careful using a Dremel. You will need a very steady hand or some sort of drilling mount to prevent cutting too wider cut in your screw. Due to the high cutting power of the Dremel it chews though the screws like a knife through butter! If the cut is too wide your flat head screw driver will not fit properly and then you could be in trouble as there is not enough metal left to try again.

As my screw was a surface screw and not recessed I used a small hack saw. It was easier to be honest and less likely to damage your heli and you have more control and it gives a nicer cut (But maybe I'm just bad with a Dremel!).

I buggered one of my screws using the Dremel and I thought I was up **** creek without a paddle as I couldn't get my screw out! :-( In the end a good technique that worked for me was to solder an old Allen key to it. This worked so well and the screw just came straight off. Make sure you tin the bolt head and the Allen key separately first to get a good bond. Once you have done this put them together and apply more solder (but not too much you have a molten lake!) allow to cool fully before trying. This method also has the advantage it heats the screw, thereby unlocking the thread lock you have put on and hence it requires less torque to remove it.

Hope this helps,

Chaz.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Just happened to me yesterday.Stripped the front TT gears and had to remove the tail block.
I lcoktite the screws on building phase and was impossible to remove them...all stripped! (quality of Align screws anyway sucks).I used a dremel with a cutting wheel...carefully I managed to get them all out.I got used to do this to Align helis..

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Old 05-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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It happened yesterday to me.
I used small hand file.
Make two opposite side flat of that screw.
After that grap and unscrew it with middle size pliers(not small one).
With this, I successfully removed that bad screw
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just went through the used Heli loctite nightmare. Here's todays tip... If when you tighten the screw loctite squirts out from under the head all over the frame. You used too much!!!! Good lord what a mess. I used one of those really thin cut off wheels on a slow speed on my dremel. Worked like a charm! Use a long handled screwdriver with a thin tip for more leverage. Thanks for saving the day once again HF!
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo0709 View Post
Anyone have a good idea about how to remove a sheared screw sitting flush with the surface? The screw is about 1/16" in diameter.

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Left hand twist drill bit! It should come right out while you're drilling it. Plus the drilling heats up the screw so it helps break down any loc-tite that is holding it.
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