How do you hook up a receiver battery to the receiver?

[Tstewar2]

I would just like to know the whole setup.

Man there is alot to know about the electric side of this hobby...

One huge science project. I love it. Its why im addicted.

Also where does this plug into?

The receiver? But my Only additional spot ill have open is my bind slot.

[WBFAir]

Might be good to tell us which receiver it is that you have but generally, as most 3 wire connections to a receiver have a positive and negative lead, those pins that they go to on the receiver are essentially on a buss.

In other words, all the positive pins are universally connected inside, and the same for the negatives.

So essentially any set of pins can act as a power in.

Of course you have to be sure that the power in leads are going to the right pins as you definitely don't want to supply power to the signal pin.

But having said that, if you aren't sure I would go the manufactures website and see if you can get the info you are looking for on your specific receiver, and if you can't find that, contact them before you do anything as the last thing you want to do it hook up power in to something it shouldn't have as it will toast that unit in seconds.

[MajorPayne]

It's fine to use your bind/ batt. port to power your receiver. When you need to bind just unplug a servo and power through that port temporarily. Once bound, simply unplug and power through the bind port. Don't forget to plug back in whatever you unplugged.
Also, the + pin is always in the center so to WBF's point, you cannot put + to the signal pin. If it were flipped you would just be connecting neg to signal. It wont work but it wont damage anything either.

[TT]

The servos can draw too much power for one servo lead to handle on a heli this large. You should use two leads in parallel to the receiver.

[Tstewar2]

My receiver is a spektrum 6210.

[dvillijs]

u got a F3C so it is using a gyro. on ur gain channel you will have a plug with a yellow wire. take the leads that comes from your battery or your BEC and remove the black and red (check correct polarity) and just put it together with the yellow one so you have one combined plug for gain and power. if u have 7 channel rx u will have another open port where you can plug in ur power.

it also depends on the power you want to run your servos at that will dictate possible parallel cables, i run the normal Align BEC and Align servos with separate rx battery with single power. have actually not hear of using dual power leads to rx

[TT]

Originally Posted by dvillijs

it also depends on the power you want to run your servos at that will dictate possible parallel cables, i run the normal Align BEC and Align servos with separate rx battery with single power. have actually not hear of using dual power leads to rx

You will...you will.

[Tstewar2]

Well im just down right confused now. Im using the stock servos and BEC.

My BEC has only a red and a black wire on both of the wires that exit each side. One side has a small red 2 pin connector im assuming is used for connecting the receiver battery? The other side has a red/black wire. Which im also assuming is what ill be connecting to my gear port and if that is used then ill be plugging it into my bind port?

Sorry but im totally confused.

[Jeff396]

You can also take a "Y" chord and plug it into any channel with both the servo wire for that channel and the battery in wire connected to it. That doesn't bother the signal out from the receiver. I used the bind port once and it just made it a pain in the Arse when I really did need to re-bind. But then half of my helis have the receiver so it's kinda hard to get at.

Jeff

[jratliff42]

The square red plug is called a JST connector. Many receiver batteries come with style plug. The wire with a servo style plug only has a red and black because the 3rd wire is a signal wire on servos. Futaba servos are a white signal wire, as well as the Align servos. JR and Spektrum use an orange signal wire.
Is your 700 flybarless? I'm assuming not. The yellow wire mentioned previously is used for gain control on your gyro. This is typically plugged into your AUX2 port but only on a 7 channel receiver. What your being told to do is, take the pins from either the gyro gain connector, or your BEC poer lead and combine the wires into one connector. Then plug the combined connector into the GEAR port on the RX. This will get you power, and gain control.
Hope this clears up the confusion and gets you going. Is this your first heli?

[dvillijs]

Originally Posted by Tstewar2

Well im just down right confused now. Im using the stock servos and BEC.

My BEC has only a red and a black wire on both of the wires that exit each side. One side has a small red 2 pin connector im assuming is used for connecting the receiver battery? The other side has a red/black wire. Which im also assuming is what ill be connecting to my gear port and if that is used then ill be plugging it into my bind port?

Sorry but im totally confused.

will do photo 4 u shortly.

Originally Posted by jratliff42

The square red plug is called a JST connector. Many receiver batteries come with style plug. The wire with a servo style plug only has a red and black because the 3rd wire is a signal wire on servos. Futaba servos are a white signal wire, as well as the Align servos. JR and Spektrum use an orange signal wire.
Is your 700 flybarless? I'm assuming not. The yellow wire mentioned previously is used for gain control on your gyro. This is typically plugged into your AUX2 port but only on a 7 channel receiver. What your being told to do is, take the pins from either the gyro gain connector, or your BEC poer lead and combine the wires into one connector. Then plug the combined connector into the GEAR port on the RX. This will get you power, and gain control.
Hope this clears up the confusion and gets you going. Is this your first heli?

F3C is flybar heli. agree with explanation but i will do photo for Tstewar2

[Tstewar2]

Thank you guys for not getting frustrated.. This isnt my first heli i have a 450 belt cp that i have totally perfect. I dont think those really require a receiver battery IMO... I understand everything about my 700 the only thing im not quite familiar with is hooking up the receiver battery from what ive been told so far its little by little becoming more and more understandable..

I understand the Y thing that Jeff was talking about but im not sure how to solder that kind of wire to that kind of connector its extremely small.. Will have to research different ways on how to do that. If anyone knows of any threads on that, then that would be extremely helpful. Thank you dvillijs for supplying the picture. Im looking forward to it!!

Im deeply deeply grateful to have everyone on this forum be so helpful. Thank you all once again!!

[dvillijs]

photos, maybe it will help

1 - My Batt & BEC
2 - use small screw driver take out leads from BEC/battery
3 - take your gain lead plug from the gyro
4 - install it in the correct place

Then install the new combined power and gain into your RX where you would have installed gain (Gear or Aux1).

let me know if there is anything else else.

[Tstewar2]

Thank you so much those pictures do help! I have a better understanding on it now thanks to the pictures! Whenever my batteries arrive ill get started on setting up my receiver battery. One question though how did you solder those tiny wires from the BEC to that connector? Did you just use alot of solder is their a trick to this as well?

[dvillijs]

Originally Posted by Tstewar2

Thank you so much those pictures do help! I have a better understanding on it now thanks to the pictures! Whenever my batteries arrive ill get started on setting up my receiver battery. One question though how did you solder those tiny wires from the BEC to that connector? Did you just use alot of solder is their a trick to this as well?

what u do is strip the end of the wires 2-3 times as much as u usually do and then u fold the end of the stripped part over each other to make a thicker shorter end. u then fill the connectors cup between half and 3/4 (depends what length ur wire ends are) with solder. When u r ready to put in the wire, warm the solder by holding the solder iron to the outside of the connector adjacent to the solder inside until it turns to liquid. while keeping the iron there put in the wire and take away the heat.

i then took small pieces of heatshrink over each other to thicken the part just after the connector and one piece over the connector and wire to keep it secure and sturdy

[Jeff396]

Hey,

To use the "Y" connector you don't have to solder anything. Just go to your local hobby shop and buy a short "Y" chord already made up. You'll also want to get some of those plastic doohickys to lock the connected plug together. You could also just use some black electrical tape wrapped around the plug a couple of times too. By the way, it's not a bad idea to do that to all of your inline connectors also. Changing the plug to have the signal wire is an excellent idea too but if you're like me and end up with seven heli's in a short time swapping componants can be a bit trickier. Also, you have to be really careful when taking the pin out not to mess up the little black tang that hoids the pin into the plastic portion of the plug. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Does anyone have a fool proof method for doing that?

Jeff

[WBFAir]

Originally Posted by Jeff396

You'll also want to get some of those plastic doohickys to lock the connected plug together. You could also just use some black electrical tape wrapped around the plug a couple of times too. By the way, it's not a bad idea to do that to all of your inline connectors also.

I like to use some clear shrink wrap long enough that it actually goes over both outer edges of the plugs so it shrinks down around them a good bit.

Its about the strongest/lightest way I can think of to lock a plug together and typically will withstand even a strong pull.

It really isn't all that much to cut it off if you need to get it apart.

And being clear, you can eaisly see if the connection is comming apart.

[Jeff396]

I meant changing the signal wire from the gyro to include the battery wires was a good idea too.

Here's another possibility to think about for your JST connector from your battery if I understand that issue.

http://www.toddsmodels.com/product_p/gpmm3104.htm

Here's an already made up harness to connect your two flight batteries in series. I tend to make my own so I can get it neater but soldering those larger wires to the Deans connectors also has a learning curve......at least it did for me. You sure don't want one of those solder joints to fail!!

http://www.toddsmodels.com/product_p/gpmm3143.htm

Jeff

[Jeff396]

Heat shrink plug holder......much better than the electrical tape thing! You get tired of dealing with the sticky glue that's left on the plug when you remove the tape. I can't do the heat shrink thing though......seems like everytime I pick up an exacto knife to cut something like that blood has a habit of spewing from my body in some location. I am experiencing a lot less blood loss now that I've switched from airplanes to heli's!

Jeff

[MajorPayne]

Originally Posted by Tstewar2

Thank you so much those pictures do help! I have a better understanding on it now thanks to the pictures! Whenever my batteries arrive ill get started on setting up my receiver battery. One question though how did you solder those tiny wires from the BEC to that connector? Did you just use alot of solder is their a trick to this as well?

In the pic, he is showing you how to remove the connectors without cutting or soldering:




Just pry out gently on the little plastic tab and slide the wire out with the little connector still attatched. Now slide it into the other servo connector. No solder. Takes about 30 seconds.