Interference with gaui t10 nx4

[bgymr]

Hey guys, I finished breaking in my motor and started hovering it. As scary as it seemed it went well for my first gasser. I'm getting glitches. I didn't have them with my nitro motor so I'm assuming it's the gasser.

-I'm running one battery for the whole Heli.
-Futaba sbus
-full vbar w gov with the backplate sensor
-it glitches at all rpm

It's not the cleanest install of the motor since I haven't had the time to cut the wires, but overall I can't see anything rubbing.

I have the ignition coil wire maxed out and on a hard bend to keep it on the plug.

Any suggestions?

[gassed]

your glitches are more than likely being caused by the ignition lead being run the entire bottom length of the heli.

your spark plug boot is too close to what appears to be your Lipo pack? and your antenna is too close to your ignition source as well.

simple rule with ignitions to avoid interference. Separate your RX system with as much distance from your ignition "box" as possible... secondly, cut that ridiculously long ignition wire and make it as short as is practical. thirdly, your CDI can sometimes back feed noise into the RX power supply especially on setups that use one power source, particularly if the power supplied (BEC/battery/lipo) is marginal. I have a filter setup lage capacitor, small capacitor and ferrite coil) between my CDI and BEC to minimize any noise. lastly there are some spark plugs out there that are noisier than others, not sure about what is available with those tiny 1/4 plugs.

[bgymr]

How do I shorten the cdi lead? Can I cut it and then resolder? Sorry for the trivial questions.

[distructor]

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...11&postcount=2
But I've not had the nerve to try it.

[LoveToFly1]

if it is simply reading "gov glitches", ditch the backplate sensor, and try a futaba sensor with magnets in the fan. i have yet to get a vbar to work longer than a week with a backplate sensor, or an align sensor. futaba is the way to go with the vbar.

it may very well be interference with the ignition, but my experience is posted above......

[bgymr]

No, it reads fine, but every three to four seconds it shakes like a stripper in church.

[bgymr]

Originally Posted by distructor

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...11&postcount=2
But I've not had the nerve to try it.

I read those and don't understand them. I'm sure as I get into opening it up instructions would become clear. But I'm not sure I have the guts right now.

Can I get a 90degree boot for these little plugs?

[Sowa]

Originally Posted by bgymr

. . .shakes like a stripper in church.

Only thing that jumps out at me is the antenna wires coming out of the rx. Both are shielded by carbon and have some bends to them.

I don't have any experience with futaba systems however, just something I see could be a potential issue.

[bgymr]

Ok, update. I believe that I have gotten rid of my glitches. I moved my receiver to the rear of the heli and I added a second battery to separate the two.

I don't think my gov is working properly. Right now I have the backplate sensor. I will try the fan sensor next.

My bigger problem now is a big vibration. When I get it up to a certain RPM the heli just gets mushy, as if the vibration is not letting the vbar trust itself. I can still land it but I wouldnt fly it like that.

So my question is, if I didn't have a vibration from my nitro, I would assume it's coming from the gasser. Could it be because I don't have it tuned well? I'm probably five turns out on the high needle right now, which is waaaay too much, but I'm afraid to lean it. This thing gets so hot that I'm afraid to lean it.

I also ordered a right angle boot for it from wrongwayRC.com
Richard is a really nice guy. We spent about 20 minutes discussing how to put that thing on. Probably way longer than it will actually take me to put it on.

So when I do that I will have followed all the suggestions in this thread. Thank you guys for guiding. me. Please give me some input on the vibration.

[gassed]

when it comes to vibration the first thing you want to do is eliminate anything that will interfere with testing... So the first thing would be to disable the Gov.

now with gassers, vibration can come from a poorly tuned engine. but before we get to fiddling with the needles, you have to check the alignment of everything from the engine output shaft all the way to the clutch bell. I have seen a handfull of gassers that were tuned to perfection but still had vibrations due to a simple misalignment between the clutch and bell or the fan hub was not aligned and had excessive runout. if all this checks out then next thing to move to is the ignition. Yeah I know is sounds weird, but a faulty ignition will cause the engine to run rough as well as hot. So double check that you are supplying enough current to the CDI... not voltage but current. you can check this by hooking up a voltmeter to read the voltage between the battery/lipo and the CDI. if when the engine is running and the voltage drops below what the battery is rated for or below what the CDI requires (especially at normal flying RPMs), then the power you are supplying is not enough. if this checks out move onto the ignition wire itself. it should be solid and have a good solid connection to the plug... any loose connection will cause issues and cause sudle misfires or rough running that can be mistaken for a tuning issue.

once all of the above checks out go ahead and move onto the tuning. keep in mind that these little engine do indeed run hot. listen to the engine during flight testing, that alone can tell you alot about how the engine is tuned. One thing you may want to do is limit the pitch of the main blades so that you do not overload the engine when tuning. trying to test with too much pitch can lead you to tune the engine too lean.

[Doug Darby]

What HS or rpm are you running?
yes disable gov and start there...

[bgymr]

OK, update.

So yesterday I got some time to play with it.

I turned the governor off and setup flat throttle curves.

I figured out that the actual vibrations I was getting were in the really high headspeeds. What is happening is that my engine was surging to a really high RPM. The motor sounds like it was really happy there. It's like something is leaning my motor out. That is still ongoing. That is my issue now. I have tried playing with the needle, i'm about 2.75 turns out on the high speed needle.

What is new to me and don't know if it applies:
-There is a half milimeter to milimeter of play in the carb in the "sliding" motion
-This motor gets so hot that it has melted the nylon part of the nuts I put on the motor to keep the exhaust on(onto the long screws that usually would hold because the exhaust is threaded, mine is stripped). The exhaust keeps coming loose, but I have had consecutive flights with it tight without issue.
-I pulled the high speed needle and looked at it closely and there is no mismachining or anything
-I am running on two separate 2300mah 2s packs
-I am using a dubro fuel clunk, with the flexible line in the tank taht was suggested from home depot (echo), with the dubro fuel lines. I am using the gaui bung.
-I have only flown with the canopy off
-If I fly inverted, tic tocs the motor will always lean out and surge in headspeed when i come out of it
-The engine has plenty of smoke oil coming out


What I have tried:
-Tuning...tuning...tuning I have had my high speed needle from 5 turns out all the way down to 2.25 out in 1/4 increments. I have messed with my low speed needle only a little bit. It's about 3 turns out right now
-I put a brass nipple on the exhaust and tried to run it like a nitro engine. But the fuel tubing melted off the exhaust (see picture). It seemed like it flew better this way, but I couldnt really tell because it didnt' last long and I had to move my needles a lot to even get it to take off. It was really rich at first.
-I have tried to fly the heli with teh side facing me at a safe distance but so i can see the throttle servo. And to me it doesn't see like it's moving for the surges. I know this isn't the best evidence! haha
-When I close my carb off from teh fuel system (as if I were fueling it) and blow in the fuel line that is open to the atmosphere, I can't blow air into it. It is tight.

I suspect I have a leak somewhere. My two next steps are:
-Check if my sparkplug is maybe loose?
-Check my line inside the tank, maybe it has a leak on it

This is my first gasser, and man I can see the addiction to it! haha I can't wait to get this little thing humming. Could my problem somehow be caused by the CDI?

Thanks guys!

[Trinisoldier]

Any guys out there ever cured these problems and how