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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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04-03-2012, 05:24 PM | #302 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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got it all dialed in now wowie, nice little heli. have maidened it succesfuly and tomorrow I'll throw some flips at it, we'll see how it goes
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04-14-2012, 10:58 AM | #303 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Hi. I'm building my first heli, the trex 250 SE. I have it all together, now I need to plug everything in. There are 4 servos. I figured out that the tail servo plugs into the receiver's 'rudder' connection, however where do the other three plug into? Which are aux1, ail and elevator? Also, I see where the gyro and the receiver go in the heli, however there doesn't seem to be room for the ESC. Where did you put this on your heli? Finally, what is the difference between the 250 pro and the 250 SE? Thanks! Rick
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mCX2, Walkera Lama 400, Trex 250 SE (Building) |
04-14-2012, 01:28 PM | #304 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
The three remaining servos that control the swashplate (known as the "cyclic" servos since they move the cyclic ie. elevator+aileron), go into the corresponding channels for each and depends on the rx you have (refer to rx manual). Most rx's have the channels labelled on the casing to describe what each input channel is. Spektrum rx's typically have the labels as abreviated words. Spektrum example: - AUX1 - (pitch servo) - GEAR (typically kept for gyro gain) - RUDD (Gyro) - ELEV (elevator servo) - AILE (aileron servo) - THRO - (esc connects here for motor throttle) - BATT - (you would use this if you are using an external bec otherwise no need for this since power come with esc. But you can use this while setting up heli head/servos on the bench etc using an external batt). On Futaba recievers, channels are represented as numbers. Again refer to rx manual. While building my 250 a while back I compile a doc. Attached Last edited by hga77; 04-14-2012 at 02:40 PM.. |
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04-14-2012, 01:39 PM | #305 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Here's what I did:
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...postcount=1231 Have a look at what others did too in that thread I believe it's just the placement of the tail servo. Maybe new main grips too not sure. |
04-17-2012, 01:54 AM | #306 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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I just bought a semi built Trex 250 off here and looking forward to the build. It has the upgraded SE tail and align FBL head. Will be putting my spare 3GX on it.
Whats the difference between the original 250 and the SE/Pro? Also, I'm about to buy a custom canopy off fusuno, I'm guessing only the Trex 250 canopies fit, otherwise they wouldn't be selling an SE or Pro canopy.
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MCPx V2: Brushless w/C05m, Microheli Head/Frame/Tail T-Rex 250 FBL: BeastX, T-Rex 450 Pro V2.1: DFC, CC 50, BeastX T-Rex 550E V2.1: DFC V2, CC ICE 100, CC BEC PRO, BeastX |
04-17-2012, 02:15 AM | #307 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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As far as i remember:
- silver head assembly (original was black) - tail grips - canopy - mounting servos. With original i dont think you had the rubber plastic gromets to secure the servos in place. Just download both old and new manuals and check that way. |
04-17-2012, 03:10 AM | #308 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Awesome thanks for that. Stock DS420 tail servo ok?
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
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MCPx V2: Brushless w/C05m, Microheli Head/Frame/Tail T-Rex 250 FBL: BeastX, T-Rex 450 Pro V2.1: DFC, CC 50, BeastX T-Rex 550E V2.1: DFC V2, CC ICE 100, CC BEC PRO, BeastX |
04-17-2012, 04:37 AM | #309 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Works for me with no wagging. But make sure you mechanical setup is as best as you can have it and that the tail pitch slider is smoooooooth. If not silcky smooth then you need to track the binding throughout the tails assembly and eliminate ut. If you make it smooth and have perfect machanical setup, you'll be fine. Watch finless trex250 build videos he covers this in there.
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04-17-2012, 04:39 AM | #310 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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I'd also recommend the hiem set for the tail grips. It removes the slop in the grips.
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04-17-2012, 04:54 AM | #311 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Great advice, thanks heaps!
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
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MCPx V2: Brushless w/C05m, Microheli Head/Frame/Tail T-Rex 250 FBL: BeastX, T-Rex 450 Pro V2.1: DFC, CC 50, BeastX T-Rex 550E V2.1: DFC V2, CC ICE 100, CC BEC PRO, BeastX |
04-25-2012, 10:07 AM | #312 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Hi guys,
I'd like a bit of advice please. I rebuilt a part of the head on my HK250 last night with real Align parts, the bits I replaced were the main rotor housing and the fly bar control assembly. I also replaced the worn original HK ball links with Align ones. But I'm finding the ball links are _really_ tight on the balls. One of the pitch adjustment ones hardly moves causing the fly bar to move up when I push positive pitch - because the link is so tight the blade grip isnt moving. I've checked the blade grip is free to spin around on the feathering shaft and it is fine, the problem is the ball link. Are the HK balls likely to be slightly larger than the Align ones? I tempted to ream out the ball links, but there is so little material around the connector I'm worried about weakening it. r. |
04-25-2012, 10:32 AM | #313 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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04-25-2012, 12:14 PM | #314 (permalink) |
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Get a spare ball and a spare canopy mounting pin - screw the ball into the mounting pin and put lock-tite on it, you never want it to come loose. Next, take a knife and score the ball lengthwise - this will create a microscopic cutting surface on the ball. Stick the ball in a link and rotate it all around until it loosens up a bit. Good to go! Tight links are a known issue on the 250 - size them as best you can, then do a few flights and it should be fine. Try to balance them - if there's a tight link on one side, put a tight one on the other side too, and they will wear more evenly.
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04-26-2012, 07:33 AM | #315 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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04-26-2012, 12:19 PM | #316 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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04-30-2012, 11:53 AM | #317 (permalink) |
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Well, you can get an actual 250-size ball link sizer, but when the 250 was new, nobody had it yet, so that's when I came up with the idea of using a spare ball - the canopy pin just happened to be something with the right threads to hold it with. A feathering shaft might work too. This is a cheap way to make a ball link sizer for any size - the 450 balls fit on the canopy pin from the 450 also.
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02-27-2014, 07:06 PM | #319 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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TT drive gears slip / get detached
Hi everyone. I read a thread the other night where people were complaining about this issue, where the torque tube front gears get detached from each other mid-flight, causing the heli to start spinning out of control.
This happened twice to me before I finally did some research and found that thread. Most recently this week, everything went great for the first flight (normal mode); then for the 2nd flight I started in IU1 with a flat throttle curve at 70%. I was simply hovering nose in, 2m off the ground, when I heard a change in the motor sound/pitch, and the heli started spinning to the left and crashed. Luckily I managed to hit TH on the way down, minimizing the damage. What broke: the feathering shaft was ripped apart, causing the rotor head to detach. The black umbrella gear obviously detached from the other black gear, and I suspect that's what caused the crash in the first place. Does anyone have an update on how to fix this for good? I've put new parts in the heli, looks good and all, but I won't fly it until I understand how to fix this problem once and for all. I mean, gears failing in mid-flight while hovering is simply unacceptable. And highly unsafe. Thanks in advance for your feedback/suggestions.
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Armattan Chameleon 5" FPV • Alien 5" FPV • Loki X3 FPV • QAV-R FPV • QAV250 FPV • ZMR 250 FPV • Mini Titan V2 FBL • DRL * HotProps • Phoenix 5 |
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