What did you do with your TDR today ?

[Puttputt maru]

Originally Posted by Groucho_

That X-Brace frame stiffener is mounted wrongly.

It should be on the other side of the servos. (Where you have the X on the bearing block)

Yes it does make sense it would be that way I guess.
Jan "sheet"of instructions that came with the X brace was with no picture and said.

The carbon plate has to show in the direction to the shaft

Not exactly the clearest of explanation for once.

I am putting in a 750-52 so no worries for now and I like the way the servo wire run the way (wrong side) that I did it so I will leave it that way.

Thanks for the heads up but there is still some debate from what I see here
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...ce#post5006623 #18 and on

but looking at the way an other brace is done
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=341096
I guess you are right.

Let me call it a new personal mod

I have the side frame stiffener too I will try to put them right. Jan has pictures for that one so I should be ok

[Puttputt maru]

Originally Posted by john2kx

Installed this way, there will be less clearance for motor. Can anyone confirm this is not a issue when installing larger motors?

Measuring with what I have, the x-brace put in front would extend 4 mm past the rounded part of the brace with the X. But with the shape of the brace being an X the motor would have to be pretty tall to come in contact with the center part of the X

[john2kx]

It looks as you have done more research than I, Eric. Just read all the links you attached and I'm going with Marks' idea of providing extra strength closer to the gears. Will leave the X brace behind the servos but I'm still going to pull my servos and trim the rubber boots.

[Puttputt maru]

Yes trimming the rubber boots sounds good too. There is more than one way to achieve the same idea.
I will be leaving my route as is, the longer route I picked, makes my servo wires length just perfect to reach my BavarianDemon without shortening or twisting them.

[RyanW]

You have the X brace correct. All of the Henseleit Team pilots have the X brace behind the servos (away from the motor).

[Puttputt maru]

Originally Posted by RyanW

You have the X brace correct. All of the Henseleit Team pilots have the X brace behind the servos (away from the motor).

Thanks, and I thought I was being creative

[john2kx]

Originally Posted by Puttputt maru

Yes trimming the rubber boots sounds good too. There is more than one way to achieve the same idea.
I will be leaving my route as is, the longer route I picked, makes my servo wires length just perfect to reach my BavarianDemon without shortening or twisting them.

So, I take it your left/right cyclic connectors don't come back as far. Has me wondering since I'm in the air over which FBL unit to use. Have a BD3SX and micro beast available. We both use Jeti Tx/rx but I have not assembled mine far enough to look at wiring options or issues. Same thoughts with ESCs. Have a new HJ 120 and Mezon 130. No experience with the HJ120 but 100+ flights logged with the mezon. A plus for my mezon is that I won't have to learn the jlog 2.5 before flying. So many choices. Thanks for keeping this post going guys, it sure has been helpful to this TDR noob.

[Puttputt maru]

BD was an easy choice for me, I love the 'rescue" feature. All my hell are on it now. If you want the basic Jeti Tx setup with the BD:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...ight=Mezon+130

In so far as the Mezon three reasons for me to go for it

1) Familiarity, it is my 4th heli with one. I did a tutorial for it
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...ight=mezon+130

2) The weakness of the Mezon seem to be slow head speed set up but I am not planning on doing that so far. By that I mean the 1100 1400 range.So I am good

3) The 700-52/ Mezon 130 was an easy match right from the start on my Kasama and I have switched my T-Rex to it too. A match made in heaven. So I have decided to use the Pyro 700-52 again with the TDR

[Puttputt maru]

Some temporary horn that I put on the servos. They are thick the secraft should be better at reducing the angle of the pushrods. Still not that bad

[RyanW]

I am glad you posted this picture. I have often wondered what effect the offset would have on the control system as a whole. Obviously you will have more differential or non-linear action with the control ball further away, but there really isn't anything that is linear on a heli anyway.

I have decided to model this up in SolidWorks as a complete assembly to see what results I come up with. I think it might be useful in determining servo arms, placing servos directly to the frames vs using grommets, etc. If the assembly turns out good, we might even be able to optimize your system to get the most resolution using the geometric data. But for now it will just be pretty pictures

[Puttputt maru]

I will do away with the grummets, all my other electrics have none, I don't think they are necessary on an electric helicopter. The JR grummets are pretty thick too when compared to the Futaba ones

[Puttputt maru]

I took the grummets out, if you compare my previous picture with this one, the geometry is already better.
I am surprised this was not discussed before as this is probably one, dare I say, weak area of this set up

[Puttputt maru]

I tried fit the elevator servo. The "T" fitting for them are a pain, they are hard to keep square and true. I am very well tempted to drill and tap an extra hole in them to keep them square. They probably will stay in position since nobody seem to have brought up any problem with them from what I can see, but still.....

[Vinger]

Elevator servo can be a pain, but after a few tries it works and the trick is to tighten the servo onto the mounts tightly, then progressively tighten the mounts to the frame, once they are nicely tight, you can back off the servo mounting screws to allow the rubber grommets a little give.

[Puttputt maru]

I got rid of the grummets on the front servos so I did the same with the elevator. Some nice secraft servo washer painted black did the trick. Made the install easier, but I still think an extra screw would have been better

http://www.secraft.net/shop/step1.ph...20120110071914

[Puttputt maru]

Coming back to the front servos, anybody thought of using a ball with a longer neck on the servo horn to bring it closer to the frame and have less of an angle? What would be the problem of doing it beside finding the ball link?

[itbvolks]

Any chance you can test mount a servo with the ears inside the side plates of the frame? For me, that's far to significant angle of incidence with the swash. I would even be concerned about pulling a rod end off the swash ball at extreme throws....

I prefer vertical control rods from servo to swash and have spent a considerable amount of time working to get this with certain airframes.


Looks odd.

[itbvolks]

Originally Posted by Puttputt maru

Coming back to the front servos, anybody thought of using a ball with a longer neck on the servo horn to bring it closer to the frame and have less of an angle? What would be the problem of doing it beside finding the ball link?

You should be able to get away with a little longer ball but I'd be worried about increased load on the end of the servo arm if they get too long (speaking with regards to plastic horns).

[Mercuriell]

The offset of the lateral cyclic servos isn't a problem. It does cause a little swash mixing, the swash dips forward slightly during increased collective and vice versa. However the gyro and FBL corrects for this so it isn't a problem in flight. Was much more of an issue in Flybarred times . Minimising the offset by doing away with grommets and using BLS servos minimises this but I wouldn't increase ball length, 10-15 kg loads on that tiny piece of metal bound to cause grief someday either by breaking the ball or else ovalling out the hole in the plastic servo arm.

[Retired2011]

Are the Secraft washers available from anywhere but there?

$4.50 for the washers and $24 shipping