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120 SR Blade (eFlite) 120 SR Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 04-19-2015, 07:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dealing with pendulum flying motion

Anyone have and tips on how to deal with the pendulum flying results associated with theSR120, other than practice. I know I often over compensate to try and correct the issue but it seems to be really prevalent when I fly the helicopter.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You have to deal with it. Can't be fixed
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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PE - Pendulum Effect and the 120SR
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...17#post4711517

Hope this helps.
Ron
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I like to use the pendulum characteristics to my advantage. I sweep back and forth, left to right in front of me using the natural nose up attitude to start a big stall turn. Do it right an you can make a "540" (1-1/2 turn pirroette).

Lots of other things can be made out of the natural tendency for the nose to bob up.

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Old 04-20-2015, 10:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Always giving it something to do seemed to work best for me. As soon as i stopped puttin input on the sticks, it would pendulum. Fly it like you stole it and don't give it a chance to do it's goofy dance.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I had the same issue in the early days of learning to fly that little bird. As my skills increased and I stopped over correcting most of the PE went away, but still had a small amount when just sitting in a hoover. As stated by others just give it something to do and the PE is not even noticed. Mine is constantly moving to a destination or preparing to land as perfect as I can so the PE is hardly noticeable.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Weighted paddles...

I found a cheap easy way to solve the TBE (pendulum) problem on my 120sr. weight the paddles on the fly-bar with small equal sized (matching pairs) screws, one in each open end of the paddles and screwed in till the heads of the screws just touch the end of the paddle. the threads of the screws should be only slightly bigger than the inside of the paddle so the threads will get a good bite and wont sling out. (2 to 3mm thread) I've been running screws in my fly-bar for 6 months now, and haven't seen any TBE/pendulum effect since..... solid stable hover. Cyclic response is still good. I haven't quite figured out how to upload an image here yet, or I'd post a pic of it.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrrocks5150@gmail.com View Post
I found a cheap easy way to solve the TBE (pendulum) problem on my 120sr. weight the paddles on the fly-bar with small equal sized (matching pairs) screws, one in each open end of the paddles and screwed in till the heads of the screws just touch the end of the paddle. the threads of the screws should be only slightly bigger than the inside of the paddle so the threads will get a good bite and wont sling out. (2 to 3mm thread) I've been running screws in my fly-bar for 6 months now, and haven't seen any TBE/pendulum effect since..... solid stable hover. Cyclic response is still good. I haven't quite figured out how to upload an image here yet, or I'd post a pic of it.
TBE and PE are two different problems. They are not the same.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I fixed it by moving on to CP helicopters.

Before moving on, I dealt with it by having enough room for my skill level and speed I wanted to fly at.
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