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Old 09-22-2016, 05:07 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crf69 View Post
just desoldered an ec5 for the first time ever. had then for over 4 years!!!


i have tons of batteries and pigtails what should i get to replace!!!!!?????

thanks in advance!!!!!!!!
I switched from EC5 to XT150:



I like them better than the PRC6 / HXT6 because the sides of the plugs are color coded which makes plugging two batteries into each other much less likely. They can also be used as separate shrouded bullets or linked together using a dovetail joint on the side of the housing. HK now sells these in single sets for the ESC and battery sides as well as a pack of 10 pairs for $12.

Someone needs to make a doodad to hold the shrouds together though, the dovetail joint can come apart when left by itself. Looking at the design and shape of the shrouds it should be possible to make a snap or screw together thing that would provide a bigger grip and lock the two housings together.

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Originally Posted by Full Montee View Post
Early this year I switched from EC5 to PRC6.
The EC5's served me without issue for years.
However switching to the the single bullet style PRC6 enabled me to remove the 12s harness and an additional 10" of wiring from the input side of my ESC.
Dropped some weight, dropped some resistance, and cleaned up the wiring.
http://www.progressiverc.com/prc6-bu...onnectors.html
The "HXT6" that HK carries are the exact same thing as PRC6 except you pay $8 for 10 pairs instead of $10 for 2 pairs.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:44 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I stopped using EC5 about 2 years ago. Switched to simple bullet connectors. No plastic housing and therefore very easy to setup.
If I would use anything with plastic housing i most likely would go with 6 mm connectors.
Main reason for me was that some EC5 for 750+ size helis simply got a bit to hot. So I stopped using 5 mm connectors.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:14 AM   #43 (permalink)
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for less than a 100 amps I switched over to xt60's on a few things and really really like them over ec3/5's.. way to easy to solder when soldered sideways (my buddy was complaining how hard to solder.. I said did you turn them sideways to solder....lol)... switching everything under 100amps to them...

Anything else.... XT150's all the way!
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:38 AM   #44 (permalink)
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P.s. This is the wiring diagram advantage of the XT150's... but yes you have to be aware of what you are plugging ... but not a big deal so far...

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Old 09-23-2016, 11:40 AM   #45 (permalink)
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I, too, got rid of my EC5s this year. The cases keep splitting on me. I went to RCProPlus D6s on everything, and love em.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:08 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I, too, got rid of my EC5s this year. The cases keep splitting on me. I went to RCProPlus D6s on everything, and love em.
Actually splitting? What life of abuse are these things living? Then again, I was a sailor and we could break an anvil, so I guess anything's possible.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:35 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Grimmy View Post
I, too, got rid of my EC5s this year. The cases keep splitting on me. I went to RCProPlus D6s on everything, and love em.


I switched to these connectors a few months ago from EC5 as well. Really like them! I do wish they were colored for the - + but it's not a big deal.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:24 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Actually splitting? What life of abuse are these things living? Then again, I was a sailor and we could break an anvil, so I guess anything's possible.
I had several that were starting to come apart where the two halves would meet in the molding of the plastic, therefore it wasn't holding the pins very well and would actually pop out when I plugged a battery in. I had about 40 flights on those packs when it started to happen. I also didn't care for the style of plug, as they would start to get weak and wouldn't hold very well.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:07 PM   #49 (permalink)
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There had to be something wrong with the install as I have never heard of that before. Been using EC-5s for years and never had that happen. Did you get solder on the ring joint used to hold it in place when you snap the connector in? Did you install the connectors when they were hot?
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:34 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblade View Post
P.s. This is the wiring diagram advantage of the XT150's... but yes you have to be aware of what you are plugging ... but not a big deal so far...

They have blue housings as well as the red and black btw.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:51 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
They have blue housings as well as the red and black btw.
Yep. I always use the blue ones for the series connection. That way, I'm always plugging like colors together. I have to be more careful when I use the one of the same packs on my DT520, but I know that red and black still will never be plugged together: only black and blue or red and blue.
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:09 PM   #52 (permalink)
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+1 on using blue for the series connection.


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Old 09-24-2016, 12:55 PM   #53 (permalink)
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ok I get if ppl want to change from EC5 to SupraX connectors as as I see it its much better to solder on the supraX connectors
but what are the benefits from EC5 to XT150 , now I'm thinking on the soldering part
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:46 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ragge1 View Post
ok I get if ppl want to change from EC5 to SupraX connectors as as I see it its much better to solder on the supraX connectors
but what are the benefits from EC5 to XT150 , now I'm thinking on the soldering part
Castle connectors are the best, but expensive.

XT150's are easier to solder with large gauge wire and they are inexpensive. And out of the "hermaphrodite" connectors (PRC6/HXT6 XT150 and SupraX) they are the only ones that are color coded on each side which makes it less likely that you'll accidentally plug two batteries together (you'd have to plug red into black). They can also be used as either a connector or as single shrouded bullets. You can even hook three of them up together into a motor connector.
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:38 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Stang Man View Post
Yup, the E-flite ones are pricey but well worth it.

I'm currently using a mix of E-flite and Hobbyking, but plan on changing them all to E-flights this winter.
I totally agree with this observation. The RJX EC5's are junk and the Eflite are great, it isn't a wonder that someone would have a problem with the cheap ones, they are almost impossible to solder and the Eflite's are easy.
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:43 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Grimmy View Post
I had several that were starting to come apart where the two halves would meet in the molding of the plastic, therefore it wasn't holding the pins very well and would actually pop out when I plugged a battery in. I had about 40 flights on those packs when it started to happen. I also didn't care for the style of plug, as they would start to get weak and wouldn't hold very well.
My guess is that this happened on the cheap ones not on the Eflite's, I have had this happen to me with RJX connectors, the Eflites work great in my experience.
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Old 09-25-2016, 02:59 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Default RC Proplus connectors

same question , maybe quicker answer here on the RC Proplus connectors

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=46
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:00 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Last winter I changed all my connectors from the EC5 Series over to the Supra series connectors....having second thoughts now.

The attached photos are from a recent mishap on my series cable, the connection going from the batts to the ESC. Fortunately when the joint desoldered I was able to auto the Trex 700 in without damage.

I had read somewhere before that this type of "spring loaded" connector was not as conductive as we might think. As it turns out the "theory" is correct.

They are great for a rock solid connection as far as not coming apart during flight but as the photos reveal the only true point of contact is at the very end of the connection. This minimal contact point reduces the flow of electricity to a small area , thus increasing the amps (and heat) if I understand the principle of moving electrons correctly.

I've had over 300 flights on the series cable so this desoldered joint may have been weakening over time. I went through all my connectors looking for similar "Charring" on the end but did not find another case of this taking place. It may have been a fluke, but it did happen.

At the present I'm still flying with the Supra's but looking into swapping everything out again this coming winter.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:43 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mike680 View Post
Source?
I was wondering the same thing lol. To say something is a fact out of your personal experience is funny.
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:12 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I was wondering the same thing lol. To say something is a fact out of your personal experience is funny.
Exactly. One person's experience/opinion ≠ fact.
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