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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 10-03-2008, 01:22 AM   #41 (permalink)
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only sort of JR then
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Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:01 AM   #42 (permalink)
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i also want to update on the price of the 3517MGs

they're $129 each

http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/156538

but if you found a place that sell them for $90 each... NICE!!!
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Old 10-10-2008, 01:06 PM   #43 (permalink)
 
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http://www.readyheli.com/DS3517MG_Hi...jrps3517mg.htm

$89.99. Very Nice!
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Old 10-10-2008, 02:59 PM   #44 (permalink)
 
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Just wanted to mention I had a problem with the 1.5mm hex head screws stripping when trying to screw them into the bottom plate and elsewhere The screws that I received were not a true 1.5mm, more like 1.6mm. There was more than a bit of frustration as in some cases they did not strip until the were almost fully seated into the "special" washers which meant having to cut the washers off so I could get a grip on the screw head to back it out. Long story short, I found that RCscrewz sells a complete set of stainless screws for the 500. They were not cheap, but what in the world of RC heli's is. Oh, and as an FYI, I build a lot of stuff, my first heli, but, I was using Wiha drivers and know how to use them.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:14 AM   #45 (permalink)
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The Align screw driver set is your answer here yeah they are sized slightly different.
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Old 10-11-2008, 10:45 AM   #46 (permalink)
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or go with Wiha

but still align screws are soft, especially the self tappers into plastic

i stripped two already
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Old 10-12-2008, 03:46 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I use the align hex drivers and the heads might be soft, but I haven't noticed...

The heads are strong enough to rip the screw in two...
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=95453 (post #77)

You live and you learn...
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Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:43 PM   #48 (permalink)
 
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Nice work Boddan - many thanks. Any thoughts on including modifications (torque tube pin/retaining screw) and canopy mounts?
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:52 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Awesome sticky Boddan I am a newb and this sticky has been so informative I have gotten so much information from everyone and I must say this is the best helicopter forum on the web... period
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:48 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I want to add that I was not happy with the 9650/9257 on the tail. I went with a 9254 and a Trex 600 servo mount and I am very happy now. Just be warned not to use the 3rd servo hole out on the servo horn on the 9254 with 100% rudder endpoints. Stupid fast piro rate. Of course I had to do it a little before I moved the ball in..

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I have to agree about HeliFreak being the best. It starts from the top with great leadership, is moderated excellently and the users like Boddan just bring it together.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:43 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Hi i am about to order parts for a t rex 600 E build ,So can any one tell me if such handy info for the 600 is on this forum?
I have had a good look but can only find bits n bobs

thanx markes
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:57 AM   #52 (permalink)
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well, i would definately advise taking the 600 ESP. i just love that one. i got no comparision to the normal 600 E but from just the cost of the parts compared its really worth it and it flies like a charm.

i am also very satisfied with my bls 451 servos, would have taken the spartan + bls 251 on the tail but at that time i couldnt get my hands on a spartan, so i took the lg 6100, works very nice as well.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:20 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Hi sorry when i put 600 E i ment 600 Electric but i will deffo go for the 600 ESP as i have a 500 GF and fance some carbon plus the ESP hase more alloy parts.

thanx markes
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http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll59/markes72/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3566858...7616910979077/
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Old 01-23-2009, 10:28 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Well, as a relative newbie that has learned the basics on a Honey Bee King II, I am stashing the funds aside for a 500ESP. Having this info here will come in handy before too much longer! Many thanks for putting it together!
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:56 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Do any of you guys mind posting some pictures of a pinned boom (dowel pinned)?
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:28 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I only have pictures for the 700n if that will work.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=90735
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:05 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Are there issues with the boom slipping if not pinned?
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:47 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fury View Post
Are there issues with the boom slipping if not pinned?
It might be an issue if you do crazy piros...
The tail can eject, mainly if you are running a torque tube but it can also effect the belt drive...
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"If at first you don't succeed - Try again and again and again..."

Belt CP (CRASHED): TP SG-90's, control arm mod, T-Rex 450 main shaft, EK1-0704a
T-Rex 500 CF: 5245 on cyclic, JR G770 3D gyro w. 3500G, DX7
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:08 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Boddan the ESP wasn't out when you started this thread huh? I have built 6 of them for customers now I have the CF version stock form. I want an ESP...

You don't need to pin if you are running a belt because a belt is locked in because of the pin on the side and the tension of the belt. Only need to pin if your running a torque tube.
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:14 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fury View Post
Are there issues with the boom slipping if not pinned?
Mine was fine all flying season but slipped a bit over the winter.

Rick
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