YGE 120HV

[snemi00]

I just received my YGE 120HV along with the programming card and a cap7 capacitor pack. This thing looks great, really well put together.

I'm planning on using it in a 700e V2 that I'm hoping to build starting next week. I don't plan on taking a chance trying the Castle 120 HV, that will be in the for sale forum or ebay.

I'm just wondering if there is anyone out there that has been using the YGE with their 700e with a 700mx motor and what settings have worked best.

By all accounts, the built in governor rivals that of the Kontronics, with the added bonus that you can also just run without governor and fixed endpoints if you want. It also works well with the Vbar governor, which I would like to try out depending on how things go with the 3gx.

[f22warzone]

just wondering but what did that set up cost you and where did you get it at?

[snemi00]

I got mine from Germany, there are a number of online shops like freakware, wemotec, Litronics2000, etc, etc. Go to the yge.de website and click on handler to see the full list.
All the European shops sell the esc for 299€ but if shipping outside of Europe you don't have to pay the VAT tax so I think its about 254€ or around $350USD.
Here in North America, it is much easier to go to elektrorc.com and get it from them for I believe $394, but they have been out of stock for a while due to the popularity of these esc's lately. I see on their site now that they should be getting some in a few days.
The prog card Is under $30 and the capacitor pack is also under $30
You don't need the cap pack and it is also not only for YGE speed controls, it's just a very nice pre made set of caps that have a nice clean way of attaching to any speed controls wiring.

[Magneto]

Ive got that exact YGE setup on its way to me and will be using the vbar gov any setup info to share would be great.

[snemi00]

I finally got around to finishing up the build and installed the electronics yesterday.
I decided to put the esc up front and added in the capacitor bank for good measure.
With everything right up in the nose the wiring is very simple and clean. However, one good nose in crash and it's going to be ugly.....

[taosgraveyard]

ok, so do you have to run the red wire from RX to ESC?

I have a separate voltage reg and battery for RX and servos. i wired it with red wire disconnected, just running signal and ground. when I plug in the ESC, the amber light comes on, but no statrup beeps.

reluctant to just hook up that red wire, don't want to fry anything

cold not find this online or in the manual

thanks

[snemi00]

Yes, the red wire definately needs to be plugged in. Most HV esc's out there do not have a built in bec. Kontronics is the only one I believe.
You disconnect the red wire from esc to receiver on regular esc's that have a built in bec, like the regular Castle Ice series, when you use and external bec or regulator.
The HV esc's don't have an internal regulator to power their own control circuit and use the power from the receiver bus.
By the way, if you look at my pictures you'll notice I've got a western robotics HV super bec and put some micro deans plugs in line so I can disconnect power to the receiver.
I have since changed those out to regular deans plugs, I just don't trust those small ones for this size machine and power level.
I have them there because when you go to use the program card for the esc, they recommend powering the esc first and then the receiver.

[rafaelc9436]

Hi Snemmi00, i have some questions for you because i have 2 friends planning on ordering 2 YGE 120HV 1 will use it on a Trex 700E and the other on the Logo 600 10s, they are new to this ESC since no one has it over here in Puerto Rico except on the Protos 500!! any advice for set up and Governor tricks or Tips!!, Thanks

[snemi00]

Nobody has one over here either but they will soon.....
The build quality on this thing is awesome, and the components are top notch.
Still trying to figure things out as for settings with the 700mx.
I'm starting with 8 on the PWM and auto timing
I haven't used the governor yet, still getting the fbl and tail gains all the way I like first.
The gov is supposed to be better than the one in the Jive, with the benefit that you can also use end points if you want instead, or even better the v-bar gov if you have one.

[Mystic3D]

Nice Job on the build, very clean wiring. Should be plenty of data on the motor timing and PMW from the Ice Users in this forum running 700MX's that totally applies here.

The YGE looks like a very viable alternative, ESP if you intend to try the VBar Gov.
I just took a Jazz off my 450 pro and put on a YGE, I would say the YGE is good and the ability to change timing and PMW resulted in a lot more power, but the Gov does not hold like the Jazz, and soft start is linear, so slow ramps slow all the way to ful power, the Jazz is non linear, slow at first then gets to max HS quickly.

All in all the YGE looks very good, has overcurrent and thermal protection like the Jive.

[snemi00]

The parameter I'm unsure of is the timing. I'm used to the Castle programming where you've got low, normal and high or of course custom. I dont know how those values in the Castle software correlate to the amount of timing in Degrees. So a value of 2 or 3 for timing does not mean 2 or 3 degrees I don't think. I think it is just a range you are setting.

The YGE timing parameter is in actual degrees. The default is 18deg, and in the instructions they recommend 18-30deg for an outrunner.

I just set it to auto for now, I'll see how it goes today.

[WBFAir]

I was just wondering if you guys really feel it is needed to have the extra cap pack on these ESC's.

I sure that electronically it helps but there is just something about how that thing is installed and connected that to me just seems troubling.

Seems like something that could get very easily compromised in a crash and or just over time from use.

Thanks

[f22warzone]

yep your right in a nose in crash, I lost my cap pack. But for a few bucks I will make another, and its nothing but good for the esc.

[snemi00]

Originally Posted by WBFAir

I was just wondering if you guys really feel it is needed to have the extra cap pack on these ESC's.

I sure that electronically it helps but there is just something about how that thing is installed and connected that to me just seems troubling.

Seems like something that could get very easily compromised in a crash and or just over time from use.

Thanks

In my particular installation, I don't think they are absolutely necessary. The way I have the esc mounted on the nose, I have managed to keep the wiring to the packs pretty short. However, there's no harm done by adding them in, there's really no downside.
Since taking those pictures I have adjusted the cap pack down a bit and secured it with shoe-goo which came out very clean and neat, and eliminates any vibration to the wires.
Yes in a nose-in crash, it's likely going to be damaged, but it will be the least of my worries, the caps are very inexpensive. The YGE cap module is the nicest add on cap setup I've seen, really clean attachment to the wires on any esc.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by snemi00

In my particular installation, I don't think they are absolutely necessary. The way I have the esc mounted on the nose, I have managed to keep the wiring to the packs pretty short. However, there's no harm done by adding them in, there's really no downside.
Since taking those pictures I have adjusted the cap pack down a bit and secured it with shoe-goo which came out very clean and neat, and eliminates any vibration to the wires.
Yes in a nose-in crash, it's likely going to be damaged, but it will be the least of my worries, the caps are very inexpensive. The YGE cap module is the nicest add on cap setup I've seen, really clean attachment to the wires on any esc.

Do you just trim the insulation off the wires and solder it? Cannot really tell from the pics. +1 No downside, just more lightning fast power.

[snemi00]

Yes, you just cut a thin slot around the wire and tin it with your soldering iron. Tin the caps module, and it clips onto the wires nicely as it is rounded. Then with a nice hot iron let the solder flow together and it's a real solid joint.
For good measure I dabbed on a bit of liquid electrical tape on the exposed joint (love that stuff).
I then applied shoe-goo over part of the board and the wires and base of the esc. It made a nice rigid attachment that is flexible but damps out vibration and won't allow the wires to fatigue over time.

[WBFAir]

So does anyone have any more to report on this ESC as I have given up on using a CC unit and really am dreading the cost of a Jive.

So if this one continues to get the thumbs up from the 700E community, I'll give it a go.

The main thing I care about is the Gov as I really found the one in the CC on my 450 to work great.

Oh and I guess I can say that I would like it not to burst into flames, but I expect that is a given.

[f22warzone]

Originally Posted by WBFAir

So does anyone have any more to report on this ESC as I have given up on using a CC unit and really am dreading the cost of a Jive.

So if this one continues to get the thumbs up from the 700E community, I'll give it a go.

The main thing I care about is the Gov as I really found the one in the CC on my 450 to work great.

Oh and I guess I can say that I would like it not to burst into flames, but I expect that is a given.

YEG is comparable to jive in terms of quality, also their gov mode is as good or slightly worse than jive but they work with the vbar gov but this is still better then the cc gove..... over all in my opinion from what I have read ( I don't own one yet but will soon) they are a better buy then jive but do not come with the internal bec, but the wr bec rated for 14s ( the yeg is also rated for 14s so again another win over jive) is a better bec then the jive but it's not built in...... Therefore, with the cost of the yeg and the wr, it is a tad bit less than the jive but 14s rated... also the airplane people uses these alot and have had no problems. Cannot honestly remember seeing a post of a yeg not working.

[WBFAir]

Thanks for the reply f22

I guess I should have mentioned I have no need for a BEC as I am running a completely separate control system.

Also one other thing I just saw on the US distributor/sellers site was that this unit has a built in anti-spark system??

So hows that working out for anyone using it?

Also one other question I had was, other then what I am assuming is the capabilities to programing it via your Tx, is the programing card the only other way to set the parameters?

As well are all the ones that are settable via the card also settable via the Tx?

Lastly, does anyone know of any English versions of the manual?

Hope that isn't asking to much.

Thanks

[snemi00]

For English documentation, go to the ElektroRc site. On the right hand side of their page, you will see a link for their wiki articles. They are the US reseller and have the most knowledge. Unfortunately, these esc's are in high demand right now for obvious reasons, so not in stock all the time.

Yeas, you can program it from the transmitter, but only some basic parameters. You really need the program card to take full advantage of the esc. It does have an anti-spark circuit built in, but with the external cap's I added on, I still have a spark when I plug in. It's nowhere close to what I've seen on other 700e's though, very small in comparison.

This weekend I ran my heli through a few packs for the first time and the YGE worked out well. I'm very happy with it so far.