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Old 07-30-2015, 12:25 AM   #21 (permalink)
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If you run the big Castle connectors this is rather necessary, and with this grease the black soot cleans up easier as it acts like a barrier. I clean mine up every now and then with a Qtip and solvent then reapply grease with a clean Qtip. Try it guys, you'll be impressed.

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Old 07-30-2015, 03:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I just give the plastic portion of the plug where it inserts into the other plug a quick spray of the food safe silicone spray that I use for my belts. No issue with attracting dust and it works well with XT60's and EC5's.

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Old 07-30-2015, 05:35 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I don't remove my ec connectors by hand. I use circlip pliers. And they're must have if you want to service your own motors.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsox View Post
If i could find a lube without hydro carbons and was also conductive, i would certainly do that. Maybe light bulb grease but i would have to research if it was compatible with plastics.
Light bulb grease?

Is that like blinker fluid?
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yes. Lube it so you can slide in and out easy. If it's too tight you will need lube. Apply generous amount and insert shaft into connector hole.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:49 PM   #26 (permalink)
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+1 on snap ring pliers or circlip pliers; have used them on EC3 and EC5's for years.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
Light bulb grease?

Is that like blinker fluid?
Very similar in chemical composition. Usually found next to muffler bearings and flux capacitors
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:02 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Deoxit is great for cleaning and some protection but it does not seem to lube the connections much. To lubricate difficult connectors I use Dr. Marty's Easy On. I suspect this is repackaged "NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL Electrical Grade"". Technically a dielectric wax. Works great for me.

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/dr-martys-...grease-review/

http://www.sanchem.com/electrical-co...lubricant.html

http://www.amazon.com/ounce-A-Specia.../dp/B000YD0O5Y 2oz would last a long time.
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:20 PM   #29 (permalink)
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There is also Dow Corning 4 and 5.

http://www.microlubrol.com/krytoxgpl...mtube-4-3.aspx

http://www.microlubrol.com/krytoxgpl...ube-4-3-1.aspx
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:27 PM   #30 (permalink)
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There is no need to use any type of grease. Just put a little bit of graphite powder around the housing and that will do the trick.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:27 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Anyone tried this?



I use their synthetic grease on everything that needs to be greased on my helicopters. Haven't tried their dialetctric grease yet though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CZorzella View Post
There is no need to use any type of grease. Just put a little bit of graphite powder around the housing and that will do the trick.
Using a conductive lubricant on high amp high voltage terminals is a very bad idea.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:40 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Also you can use DC-4 witch is Dow conning dielectric also keep's moisture and corrosion from building .

http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php...FU9ffgod264GgA
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:08 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Light bulb grease?
The stuff also works great on muffler bearings..
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:20 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Anyone tried this?



I use their synthetic grease on everything that needs to be greased on my helicopters. Haven't tried their dialetctric grease yet though.



Using a conductive lubricant on high amp high voltage terminals is a very bad idea.
This is the same stuff we used on light bulbs. It's basically just a silicone grease

Imo, I wouldn't grease the metal. But...all of the sudden I want to live the plastics
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Old 07-31-2015, 12:40 AM   #35 (permalink)
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The die electric grease (or lightbulb grease) is something I use on a daily basis working on trucks and trailers. It's main purpose is to resist corrosion which is a big deal on trucks and trailers that run thousands of miles a week in all sorts of conditions. Road salt and de-icer can be catastrophic on non-protected connections.
Ever see a 1157 bulb in a taillight that was rusted to the socket? That's what die electric grease prevents along as well as wire connections. It goes on every bulb I install if it's an exterior light.

I've never lubed my heli plugs or connections because they're not exposed to the elements enough to corrode anything but if I ever decided to, even if it was to make disconnection easier, that is what I would use.
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:26 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZorzella View Post
There is no need to use any type of grease. Just put a little bit of graphite powder around the housing and that will do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Using a conductive lubricant on high amp high voltage terminals is a very bad idea.
Atomic, It's not a bad idea, If you use it only around the plastic housing!

The way that I've been doing for years is safe; You just have to put very little of that stuff, not even enough to smear your fingers in handling and it will last forever... Simple and effective!

just saying...
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:56 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I would never use any kind of conductive lubricant on bullet connectors. Also, it's my understanding that graphite can increase the resistance in the connection.

Recently I've been testing a special industrial grade contact lubricant on my bullet connectors and plan to try it on balance connectors as well.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:23 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Default Lube connectors for easier removal?

OMG, please read my post correctly. I never said to use any kind of conductive lubricant on bullet connectors.

Pay attention to my wording: "Plastic Housing"

Quote:
Originally Posted by CZorzella View Post
...use it only around the plastic housing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CZorzella View Post
You just have to put very little of that stuff, not even enough to smear your fingers in handling and it will last forever... Simple and effective!
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:48 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curmudgeon View Post
Either. I just don't like ending up with blisters on my fingers from pulling those EC5's apart.
Use a different technique.... Rather than pull apart with your fingers (and risk pulling wires apart when the connector breaks free), place the heels/palms of your hands together, and grip each half of the connector between your thumb and forefinger of each hand.

Because the heels of your hands are together, you simply rotate your wrists away from each other using the heels as the stationary pressure point.

It takes a little practice, but you'll probably find the connectors pop right apart using this method; I use it on both ec3 and ec5, and mine usually seperate with an airtight "pop"
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:24 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Skidpad, interesting suggestion. I'm going to give that a shot. Seems it would work really well.
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