Quad Mods?

[hotshot888]

Actually, the AirTime LG were my solution. Rich custom made them to my spec. It should be noted that these LG are modified to accomodate 40 mm strut spacing. The standard AirTime LG will not fit.

Dylan's solution was to make custom ESC mounts that doubled as LG.

P.S. I also used slightly lenghtened booms (100mm)

[TheHeliDude]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

Good stuff, I would be really interested to see what the $18 flip mwc board would do on it with the esc's running multi code.

You can run a spek sat on the flip now too.



Sent from tapatalk

Could a cheaper ESC like a turnigy plush 6A be used with this and work well for the AP05 3000kv motor? This board sounds like a good idea and I'd like to build a micro quad if it didn't cost more than a full sized one!

[liftbag]

Originally Posted by TheHeliDude

Could a cheaper ESC like a turnigy plush 6A be used with this and work well for the AP05 3000kv motor? This board sounds like a good idea and I'd like to build a micro quad if it didn't cost more than a full sized one!

Yes, but if you want to get the most out of an advanced FC board you have to flash it with BlHeli "Multi" code.

The Plush 6A is good enough for the AP05, but if you want to make a monster (and cheaper) nano quad, look at the HK 10A esc and NTM Prop Drive 13-12 2600KV motors.
You can power those esc/motors at 3S and still have the BlHeli full damped mode

[hotshot888]

Originally Posted by liftbag

I just broke three arms in a small crash against a tree, so I tried to reinforce them.

I hear you!

I got sick of the square CF booms, they weaken up quickly after a few minor bumps. Not very resistant to twisting at all.

So I have been testing 3mm CF tube instead. I mount them with a 1mm(ish) plastic shim CAed to the underside of the part of the boom that inserts into the frame.

To lock the Astroid motor mounts in place, I used a small 2mm strip of shrink wrap placed against the CF tube (between the boom and Astroid CF plate). Now the motor mounts will twist on the boom in a crash, instead of twisting the CF boom (and ruining it's integrity).

It's a tight fit, but I am able to adjust the mounts on the boom by hand. Of course, it takes a bit of balancing/aligning but I have not changed a boom in months (with plenty of flight time)! Additionally, I have not been able to twist the mounts in flight, no matter how hard I push the bird (on 2S, high gains).

Originally Posted by liftbag

hotshot888, I really love the stickers you send me. What did you use to make them?

Thanks, glad you are enjoying them. I made them myself with Photoshop and then had them (professionally) printed on transparent adhesive vinyl. The next time I get some printed I will let you know. Cheers.

[liftbag]

Originally Posted by hotshot888

I hear you!

I got sick of the square CF booms, they weaken up quickly after a few minor bumps. Not very resistant to twisting at all.

So I have been testing 3mm CF tube instead. I mount them with a 1mm(ish) plastic shim CAed to the underside of the part of the boom that inserts into the frame.

To lock the Astroid motor mounts in place, I used a small 2mm strip of shrink wrap placed against the CF tube (between the boom and Astroid CF plate). Now the motor mounts will twist on the boom in a crash, instead of twisting the CF boom (and ruining it's integrity).

It's a tight fit, but I am able to adjust the mounts on the boom by hand. Of course, it takes a bit of balancing/aligning but I have not changed a boom in months (with plenty of flight time)! Additionally, I have not been able to twist the mounts in flight, no matter how hard I push the bird (on 2S, high gains).

If you want to save your CF booms and props too, use the prop savers enclosed in the AP05 bag.
You cannot fit those prop savers with E-Flite propellers.
You have to use this props (many colors available) that are even better than E-Flite.

[PrinceLazar]

Is it possible to get a PDF of the 4 in 1 mqx board?

Steve

[hotshot888]

Originally Posted by liftbag

If you want to save your CF booms and props too, use the prop savers enclosed in the AP05 bag.

Going to try the 5030s, CR 4 x 4.5 props on the way.

Did you trim the height of the plastic adapter (prop mount)? I do not see the top edge of the adaptor protuding from your props as mine do (untrimmed).

Cheers.

[liftbag]

Originally Posted by hotshot888

Going to try the 5030s, CR 4 x 4.5 props on the way.

Did you trim the height of the plastic adapter (prop mount)? I do not see the top edge of the adaptor protuding from your props as mine do (untrimmed).

Cheers.

My props (5x4.5) have different plastic adapters from the 5030s.

I am amazed by the prop saver system.
The plastic adapter has little contact with the alu collar, making somewhat uncertain the mechanical coupling. Yet I have never had any tracking problem, even if I tilt the propeller before starting the motor. I do not know, it seems a self-leveling propeller system.

For the 3S I ordered different adapters, with which probably I will have big problems in crashes.

I have not decided yet if I will use the Prop savers or Prop adapters w / Alu Cone

[hotshot888]

Originally Posted by liftbag

I am amazed by the prop saver system.
The plastic adapter has little contact with the alu collar, making somewhat uncertain the mechanical coupling. Yet I have never had any tracking problem, even if I tilt the propeller before starting the motor. I do not know, it seems a self-leveling propeller system.

Nice! As you know, ballancing/tracking has been the touchy part of our conversions (for the tunning aspect).

IMO, the "wobble effect" sometimes experienced (at reduced throttle only) from wind gusts and/or fast drop in altitude is greatly diminished with good ballancing and tracking.

[hotshot888]

Judgement still out on the 5030s. Definately harder to balance than the E-Flite props. Not as precise so far.

Paolo, did you ever try the HK 5030 two blade props?

[hotshot888]

Originally Posted by liftbag

I have not decided yet if I will use the Prop savers or Prop adapters w / Alu Cone

Today I managed to blow my rear props off in mid air !

They came off as I transitioned from a FWD (horizontal, front props down) throttle punch, to BKWD (horizontal, rear props down) throttle punch. The 5030s were equipped with the prop savers. I think one of the elastics snapped, since I recovered both rear props, but one was missing it's elastic.

To be fair, this is a fairly demanding manoeuver.

No damage.

Food for thought if you are going up to 3S.

Testing with prop savers for sure, but for more serious (aerobatic) flying, adaptors may be more reliable.

[liftbag]

Originally Posted by hotshot888

Today I managed to blow my rear props off in mid air !

They came off as I transitioned from a FWD (horizontal, front props down) throttle punch, to BKWD (horizontal, rear props down) throttle punch. The 5030s were equipped with the prop savers. I think one of the elastics snapped, since I recovered both rear props, but one was missing it's elastic.

To be fair, this is a fairly demanding manoeuver.

No damage.

Food for thought if you are going up to 3S.

Testing with prop savers for sure, but for more serious (aerobatic) flying, adaptors may be more reliable.

I hope to receive the motors tomorrow.
I have already decided, 3S + 6045s = Alu cone prop adapters

[hotshot888]

Sounds good!

Keep us posted.

[hotshot888]

Originally Posted by liftbag

You have to use this props (many colors available) that are even better than E-Flite.

Yes. Good performance, lots of thrust/lift. Eats a bit more power/runtime, warmer motors. Much better rigidity/quality than the 5030s. But, in fairness, I was not unhappy with the 5030s performance once balanced.

I still think the E-flite props are the most stable (least oscillation's), but you sacrifice thrust in choosing them over either the HK props, not that the bird is underpowered, regardless of which of the three you use.

Will stick to the HK props for now, liking the prop savers a lot.

They (prop savers) work well, with both HK props, now that I have changed to the stronger silicone o-ring. I have not lost a prop since, and I have tried hard...

HK prop adapters on the way, not sure about the weight though. At first, I was iffy about the added weight of the HK prop savers...but I'm sold on them now.

[Art of Dale Mathis]

Been following this thread for some time and wanted to add my 2 cents. So after watching some of you guys Mod out the Blade QX-180 I wondered if it would be possible to do the same to other entry level Quadcopters. I purchased an Ares Ethos QX-130 and after flying it, beating it up and loving it, I wanted to see if it were possible to mod it just as you guys did the QX-180. After decrypting your images and notes I was able to Mod the Ethos to run on Brushless motors as well. Still a work in progress I might add due to my limited time to play with it. For the record, I am in no way an expert in Quadcopters or Heli's but I have always been a lover of RC anything since the mid 80's. I do have a background in fine art, design, engineering and basic electronics so that definitely helped in the steps.

1st I had to find my PWM signal points on my Ethos 5-In-1 control board. For those of you who might want to try this with their all in one Quads here is a diagram that may help you understand in a basic way how to locate your signal points on your control board. In the image attached, the red lines show you how to trace the PWM signal points from the FET's (The little black chip with the 3 leads coming out of it, 1 on top and 2 on the bottom) and the 2 small resistors following it. They are usually near the plug in connectors for your Motors. You will notice the red line leads to the big processing chip on the board. This should give you a general idea in how to locate your signal points on your all in one quads. The yellow circles in the image are where you solder your wires to. This allows you to receive the PWM signals which will later be soldered to your ESC (Electronic Speed control).

[IMG][/IMG]

[Art of Dale Mathis]

Next I wanted to challenge my self and see how far I could take the RHK CNC CF Main Frame for the Blade MQX. Unfortunately there are no after market upgrade kits for the Ethos. Fortunately there are many upgrade kits for the MQX and they are all direct fits for the Ethos. I have seen some negative reviews on the RHK Blade Mod mainly due to its high cost but after purchasing the kit I can honestly say you get what you pay for. The kit is definitely high quality craftsmanship. Everything is precise small, super strong and durable. I'm a Steampunk Artist so the geared aspect is what appealed to me. I know geared quads are not favored in the Quad world due to its added unnecessary weight due to brushless motors having enough power where you don't need anything geared but I wanted to see how far I could take it since no one else has.

[Art of Dale Mathis]

Next I had to find adequate Brushless motors for the RHK motor mounts. I actually purchased a bunch of motors to see what would and wouldn't fit. RHK gives you a list of motors that would fit based on the basic design of the 180MQX. I wanted to see if I could take it a step further with bigger motors. I noticed that you could actually put up to 12mm inrunners in the motor mounts. I 1st purchased an Horizon BLH3903 brushless in runner which is for an mCP X BL Heli. Its 6700kv and about 10mm in diameter. It fits with no problem in the RHK motor mounts but I wanted something bigger in KV. I found some Turnigy 10300kv inrunners that are 12mm in diameter and lighter than the Horizon BLH3903 motors. They fit even better also allowing room for adjustment in case I wanted to play with different gear ratios.

Here is the Horizon BLH3903 Brushless Inrunner installed in the RHK motor mounts to give you an idea of size difference from the installed Turnigy.






Different motor options relative to the stock brushed motor. From left to Right,
1. Turnigy 1230 Brushless Inrunner 4500kv 12mm x 30mm with a 1.48mm shaft. 14.5 grams
2. Turnigy 1220 Brushless Inrunner 10300kv 12mm x 21mm with a 1.48mm shaft. 8.4 grams.
3. Horizon BLH3903 Brushless Inrunner 6700kv 10mm x 28.40mm with a 0.98mm shaft. 8.9 grams.
4. Stock Brushed motor RPM-? 8.45mm x 20.04mm with a 0.98mm shaft. 4.8 grams
I ended up using the Turnigy 1220 because it was lighter and had a higher kv. I will ultimately try them all.





I purchase 3.0mm Aluminum Bullet Propeller Adapter Holder's which fit on the stock 4mm mQX prop shafts perfectly. I also purchased RCTimer 5030 5 x 3 Carbon fiber CW/CCW propellers to add to all the other bling on the Quad.



Astroid designs supplied me with the 11 tooth pinion gear with a 1.5mm bore to fit snugly on the Turnigy motor. http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...ent-1mm-shafts

I also put a Microheli Delrin Main Gear w/ Hub set for the Blade 180QXHD. I got this in hopes that it would allow me to gear up or down on the spur gear. The gear provided is a 64 tooth spur gear, not sure yet if the stock gear is the same. I will play with the gears to see how much more power i can get out of this set up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Microheli-De...-/191226794414



I also placed Sullivan 1/2" tail wheels on all motor mounts. Perfect clearance from the prop shaft samll in size,machined aluminum with a scale appearance and the coolest thing is it was a direct fit on the RHK motor mount with no modification necessary. Its like it was made for it indirectly.

[Art of Dale Mathis]

My next challenge was installing the ESC onto the Ethos control board. Unlike the mQX board, the Ethos has many connectors around the board that will allow you to add on accessories to the Quad like a Cam, Rocket Launcher, Water shooter, Bubble Blower and a Winch as well as LED lights. I wanted to have access to these connectors as well as access to my ESC for programming. So I designed an ESC housing that I call the Black Box. This box sits directly in the center of the control board without obstruction and fits right under the Ethos canopy.

The ESC slide's and snaps into the housing and is held in place with tabs built into the housing design. The Black Box also has pitch pin plug in ports so you can program your individual ESC with BLHeli code program or what ever program is of your choosing.

[Art of Dale Mathis]

Wanted to give the Ethos an official paint job...lol

[n8lbv]

Wow!
All that hard work and detail.
And not a single word of acknowledgement any questions or anything?
I'm still flying a few stock mQx (pre QX180) quads.

Did this ever fly?