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4#3, 4#3a, 4#3b, 4#3Q Walkera 4#3, 4#3a, 4#3b, 4#3Q Helicopter Support |
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09-06-2013, 01:38 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Setting up the Walkera Gk-011 Gyro to give decent hold
The entire time I've had this gyro I've never been able to find good setup instructions so I figured being that I've finally got it working good enough to trust on my Blade 400 i'd share the info for others that might have the same Gyro (it's really not that bad IMO as an amateur pilot)
The setup goes just like a Futaba Gy401 for the most part (depending on who's setup you listen to) I've found at least 5 different ones that are sworn by LOL Here's what's worked for me Before starting the setup set your gyro gain to 50% even this disables the gyro.... Center the servo with it's arm and the pitych arm at 90* to their respective bodies) Set the Tx to have the Gyro switch (spectrum - do as needed for your radio) have one mode at 25% (rate mode mid-gain) and one side to have 75% HH mode) And put the gyro on the 25% rate setting.. Adjust the servo placement while balancing it with adjustment of the limit pot to get good even travel with max throw and no binding (figure most heli pilots know how tyo do this as almost every setup guide goes rather in depth on it) now, when you are ready to hover you have two ways you can adjust the flight attitude.. (mechanical linkage or trim/sub-trim) I used sub trim for the setup that first got me feeling like I could trust this thing to not kill my heki Hover easy and stable (cyclic inputs when excessive will cause the tail to wonder either way in rate mode) but with a stable hover adjust the trim/sub-truim to where the heli holds as straight as you can get it... I would lioft off, feel the correction needed, land add some sub-trim and then repeat until she held fgor the most part like it does in HH mode. At this pointyou have one of two options.... either check the amount of pitching done by trim and duplicate it with linkage adjustments or if you have a gyro switch flip it three times fairly fast (less than a second on each flip) and land with the final position in HH mode.. Lookingh at the Gyro, two flashes immediately after the last one corresponding to your switch changes tells you that the gyro has locked in the trimmed position as center for it's base to hold the tail steady.. (and as long as you always initialize the Gyro with the Tx set to nHH mode it will jkeep this setting, but the moment you turn the heli on and the Tx is in Rate mode you will lose the setting (but if you stuiil have the trim dialed in three switch flips put it right back) From here you can fly in either mode and set the appropriate gain values for no wagging in flight, and start doing punch outs and seeing if you need a little more gain or not. I've kept these simple so to keep the reading light as i'm sure anyone who's setup a gyro ever has read the many many ways to finagle the m,echanical parts of the setup... the better you dial in the mechanical the less electronic corrections you'll need.. I'm constantly adjusting both now making it better and better, and just when I got it dead nuts on .....well you guessed it...heli meets gropund zero LOL and I start all over To re-toucvh on something, The "delay" pot, I find is more set to the particular servo but I find the less I use the better on any servo that's at least got a speed of .12 sec @60* - 4.8v (I have seena setup where some4 one said to set it to full delay bnut I was unable to find that one to re-read why,, but mine is doing fine wito8ut having messed with it) |
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