A few ? on Loctite and also, best way to clean off old loctite and prep for new ?

[WBFAir]

Hello all

I'm about ready to start putting my first 450SE V2 together and plan to take every screw out to check and re-Loctite. I understand some might already be done but I figure I might as well do them all just to be safe

A few questions on this though, once I pull out a screw that already has Loctite on it, whats the best way to clean off and prep the new screw for another application, is rubbing alcohol OK ?

Also what about the hole, should I chase it with a tap or just leave it alone ?

Next, if I ever back out or in a little bit a Loctited screw should I remove it and do another app or is it basically OK ?

The reason I ask is that I would assume that some screws that were Loctited can become a little looser on moving parts once the helos been run a bit so is it OK to just tighten those up or again, remove and reapply the Loctite.

Second, I've read on the bottle hat it can take up to 24hrs for the Loctite to completely cure, is the really true ? How long after a job can I think to move or work with connection ?

Lastly I have never worked with it but I understand there are a few bearing assemblies that use the green wicking type of Loctite, how do I use that stuff ?

Is it meant to be applied after the bearing is installed or before, if after, what would be a good applicator to use ?

I would assume it would be real important to not get that in the bearing, if I do can I clean it out in some way, say by soaking it in rubbing alcohol or some other product then repacking it with grease ?

Thanks all

[HeliSmith]

Pull the screw out and using rubbing alcohol use your finger nails with the allen tool to turn through the threads. Thread the screw in the hole and do that a couple times.

If you back the screw out any remove it and loctite it again.

Yeah 24 hours is best. Let's see a heli addict follow that rule on the field.

Bearings are hard to re-lube but if you have to clean them yes try and repack them. Green loctite is used on the outer edge in some cases but you should understand it only takes a little bit. It is applied when you install it if you choose to use it. Green loctite sets up fairly quickly so be deliberate in what you do.

[desertbird]

You need to clean that stuff off? I think that's going overboard. I've reloctited screws numerous times and they are always locked when I've had to remove it later.

[HeliSmith]

Thas funny stuff man!

You are supposed to prep the surface although yeah I imagine it will harden and work fine if you don't.

[WBFAir]

Thanks for the reply HeliSmith, man you guy reply fast on this board!

Originally Posted by HeliSmith

If you back the screw out any remove it and loctite it again.

Ok so how about turning it in? Again I suspect some of these screws may loosen up by wear of the parts or weeping out of grease or lube, especially on a new helo, just to take up any slack can I just tighten those up a bit or should I really take them back out and redo the app.

Originally Posted by HeliSmith

Bearings are hard to re-lube but if you have to clean them yes try and repack them.

I bought the tool called "The Greaser" which I plan to use to pack every bearing on the helo before I even use them.

Basically especially on the main belt drive assembly I intend to take it apart, using heat to break any existing Loctite, clean out the old grease as it has been heated, re-grease the bearing then reinstall them so thats why I'm asking.

I was thinking with this type of an assembly I would apply the Loctite to the inside of the bearing race and then slide it to the proper point on the shaft, I was thinking then after to maybe with a really small applicator put another application on where the bearing race meets the shaft and let it wick in. Afterward I would carefully use the rubbing alcohol to clean off an residual Loctite on the shaft.

As far as any other bearings go, If I don't have to heat them I don't think I will be cleaning them out before re-greasing as any residual grease should be OK.

I'm assuming the same process could be used for the main bearing, apply some to the outside bearing race, Install it, then another app to where the outer bearing edge meets the body.

Hopefully I will not get any of it inside the bearing but given that this product is called wicking, I'm assuming it could be possible so its good to know that I can clean it away with rubbing alcohol if I do.


Thanks

[Pinecone]

You are supposed to clean it all off. Using Loctite Cleaner/Primer and a wire brush. For most uses though, adding a bit is fine, until you get a bit of buildup, then clean (alcohol or acetone) and something to chase the threads. You could chas ethe hole with a tap, but I don't bother.

If you move the screw in or out at all, you need to remove and re-Loctite. Lotcite cures to a hard materail, so nay rotation breaks the bond.

You don't want to use Green wicking grade, you want to use Green non-threaded cylindrical Loctite, such as 638. Be very careful to not get it into the bearing. I don't bother with many of the bearings, but the grip bearings will push out when installing the grips if you don't use something.

Yes, it takes 24 hours to fully cure, but you can handle the asemblies within minutes. You really shouldn't fly it for several hours, but after repairs, I tend to make a test hop after about 15 - 20 minutes.

[WBFAir]

Hey Terry, thanks for the reply

Originally Posted by Pinecone

You are supposed to clean it all off. Using Loctite Cleaner/Primer and a wire brush.

So could the rubbing alcohol be used a subtitiue for this product or no? And also for prepping a new clean joint too?

Originally Posted by Pinecone

You don't want to use Green wicking grade, you want to use Green non-threaded cylindrical Loctite, such as 638.

OK so is this product not capable of wicking then, IE, I shouldn't apply again after as a small bead where a race meets a shaft or collar then ?

Also as far as you know, would I still be able to get a bearing back off with the 638 using a heat gun if I had too?

[desertbird]

Well, if there is a big blob the screw wouldn't thread. I'm finding it hard to believe that people would go through the pains of cleaning every little screw they remove. Put a dab more on it and forget about it, it's adhearing to it's own material, it's really not an issue...

[Jeff Palmer]

A dremel tool with a wire wheel works likes a charm, I even hold 3 x 6 mm screws with my finger tips, Turn the speed down to 4 or 5 and rotate the screw with your finger tips.

[HeliSmith]

Wow a wire wheel man I thought I was thorough with using my finger nails, a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

[Jeff Palmer]

The wire wheel I'm talking about is about the size of a quarter, It will clean threads as fast as you roll the screws between you finger tips, and it removes all.

[Azathoth]

If time isn't a concern then put all of your loctite covered screws into a small jar and cover them in acetone, put the lid on. takes about an 30 minutes/hour to get it all off. I've left it overnight and was worried that the screws would be dissolved or at least eroded but they seem fine.

[Pinecone]

Alcohol or acetone will work fine. But the Loctite product actually makes it work better.

Wire brush/wheel is a great way to do it.

638 comes loose with heat fine. There is also 608, which is lower strength.

Wicking grade may work, but there are differences between products for threaded and non-threaded assemblies.

[WBFAir]

Hey Terry

So whats the story on the green Loctite that comes with the kit, the instruction book calls it a "Anaerobics Retainer" is their stuff junk or is it OK to use?

Also should I be using that prep even on new connections ?

Lastly, I was trying to look up what primers they had and found that they have several, is the 7649 product that I found here: http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...?productid=880 the one that you are talking about?

Thanks

[Pinecone]

I don't really know about the stuff they include in the kit. I use Loctite brand products.

As for the primer, you really don't need it. I have never used in building cars (hot rods, race, cars, etc) or for models. It works fine without it.

Yes, Loctite does recommend it, but I have not ever heard of a problem with not using it.

[nabl74]

Originally Posted by WBFAir

Hey Terry

So whats the story on the green Loctite that comes with the kit, the instruction book calls it a "Anaerobics Retainer" is their stuff junk or is it OK to use?


Thanks

The green stuff is a bearing retainer. Use it on round surfaces like bearings before you slot them into their round sockets. You basicaly apply to the round outer middel surface of the bearing (not the top or bottom) to help the bearings from sliding / moving.

Dont use the bearing retainer / anaerobic retainer for screws. use loctite for those.

[mike_drz]

I usually put them in a small container with rubbing alcohol. Then I use a stiff paint brush to stab at the threads. That usually gets most if not all the old stuff off.

[islrcr1]

This is what I use......https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGI..._code=PML24215

[Kap'n Krunch]

there's been days i've crashed and would rebuild my 450 twice in a day all at the field who has times to prep screws not "I"

[Kap'n Krunch]

I just realized how old this thread is 2008