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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 04-28-2011, 05:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Sloppy 250

I replaced the swash (it was terrible also lol) and still seem to have aton of slop inthe head. No not my head hehe -- I think 90% of it is coming fromthe mixing arms and some fromt he servos --I have some 65mg here I can swap out. If I hold the servos it sill is sloppy -- what you guys do to solve the mixing arm slop ?

Markus

Sorry for a fuzzy vid but you can see good enough :0(

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g52OZVDbeKU&feature=channel_video_title[/ame]
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think when i had my head i had some slop, but nothing i could tell when flying.

you could always ditch the flybar and go FBL.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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How does it fly w/ the slop?
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It looks like start from the servo. When you do that, the servo arm move up and down.
Try with the heli armed. Servo will have some resistance when it armed, so the servo arm won't go up and down.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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tighten your mixing arms. the screws look loose.
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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There is a tiny amount in the servos -- thats not as big of an issue as the mixing arms -- yes they are the loosest I have seen yet -- after 1 full season it is time to replace I think. I have a spare Copterx250 head here and none of the arms "wobble" as that. As far as flying, 90% cool but theres a time or two where the cyclic seems to have to "catch up" so its kinds squishy (for the lack of a better term) around center. Im goingto put the x stuff on this weekend and I'll repost a vid ;0)

Thanks for all the responses,
Markus


PS -- el guapo ----- the screws are so tight I think I'm a 1/8 turn from stripping lol
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I had the exact same problem before. During mid flight, one of the screws can loose on the mixing arm. Before the screw came out, I did notice lag during stick inputs. Luckily I was able to land in one piece. I tried to tighten w the included hex driver, but the head of the screw would strip. I thought that would mean it is as tight as it will get, but I was wrong. Used a machined hex driver and it made such a difference. I could tighten the screws on the head even more and the head of the screws would not strip. Now the heli flys great and no lag in stick inputs.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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yup, I didn't realize my mixing arm were loose until I got a MIP 1.3mm hex driver.

I'm not saying to go crank it down. its your heli, don't break it. but the mixing arms should not have a bunch of side to side wiggle. I'd recommend taking the washout apart and make sure your screw is bottoming on the the inner race of the mixing arm bearing.


and stripping out a screw means the threads are damaged, rounding out a head is when the hex wrench tool slips in the head.
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I also have the throp tool great investment :0)

Markus
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Old 04-29-2011, 06:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Going flybarless gets rid of a lot of slop from the mixing arms... really tightens the head up a lot. Mine has zero (well, ok, as close to zero as practically possible) slop now!

Just food for thought (cough, go FBL cough)
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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+1 the simpler head is way easier to setup. less maintence
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I hear you guys and see the point of the "less is better" -- I haven't gone FBL on anything yet and if I was to it wouldnt be on the 250 ;0) Im going to swap out the mixers for the copter x ones Ihave here that are super tight in the bearing department unlike the align ones :0)

Markus
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Take mixing arms off and sand the washer that goes in between the bearings. In the process you will need to mount the arm few times to check the free play. Don't just tighten the the screws as they may strip.

Good luck
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