Microbeast plus pro menu L

[Kinens]

In setting up the MBX on menu L I can not get the blue light for optimal use with out binding the swash links against the servo body. Best I can do with minimal clearance is a red status light.

Any way to fix this? Any negative effects other than limited travel? I am out as far as I can go on the servo horn.

[trexpro]

What kind of heli do you have and did you not had any problems getting 6 degrees blue?

[Kinens]

It's on a 550X, I had a beastx on it before and never had the travel go this far nor did it speak to any "optimum" set up.

[sutty]

Quick question, why have you gone to the end holes on the servo arms? Was this to get blue at step J, when you set it to 6 degrees? If it was, it's a little unusual, because very often the most common issue is not being able to get blue, at step J, and in order to do so you very often have to come in a hole or two.

Blue at 6 degrees, or as a tiny compromise, red at 6 degrees is more important than what comes later, if for no other reason than if you have blue at 6 degrees, then the rest of it is nearly always falls into place anyway.

In order words, the most common reason for not getting blue at step L is not having done step J correctly, even though there can be other reasons, but they are rare. This is why trexpro asked you about the result at step J.

If you don't recall, I would repeat step J, and see what colour you get when you set it to 6 degrees as you must for this step, and report back.

Useful feedback, to enable us to assist, is also to let us know when it goes blue, as you are doing step J.

For example, if it goes blue at 4.5, you still set it to 6, but you could tell us that it went blue at 4.5. If it is still red at 6 degrees, then you should proceed, and note when it goes blue, say at 7.8 degrees. Again you should still set it to 6 degrees, but if you tell us it didn't go blue until 7.8 degrees, before you finally set it back to 6 degrees, this again this will help us to give you more sensible advice.

[trexpro]

If everything else is within the limits of the BeastX, I will not worry and back away from binding. It's just the max swash limit which the BeastX can operate in if needed.
You can try other servo horns to try to get it perfect. But it's not 100% necessary. Sutty has a clear point, you must give more info

[Kinens]

I will check "when" it goes blue in J however I know it's blue at 6 degrees for what it's worth. As to the servo horn, I replaced the elevator with a JR horn recently as the spline was worn and matched the hole location to the other two that came with the model. They only have one hole. These horn give a perfect 90.


As to the servo horns. I guess I thought they

[trexpro]

Go back to the original horns, those gave you a better geometry

[Kinens]

The photo above is the original and they bind as described above. I need to check and see when it turns blue in menu J.

[Kinens]

Menu J turns blue at 5.8 degrees. I did the set up again and end up with a red status on Menu L still. Heli flies fine but it's not optimal I guess.

[sutty]

Shame, that's as near to perfect in terms of resolution as can be, yet still you get an issue at L. Very odd.

Red at L is only an issue if you find the heli is not as agile as you would like it to be, and you want it to have more overall throw for the MB to operate with. If you fly in a less than maxed out mode, sport for example, or with travel adjusts at anywhere less than say 110%, in Tx mode, then you wouldn't notice anyway, since the MB will be holding back the rate anyway.

Is it that binding causes you to have to limit it back into the red zone, or is is red at full deflection, right in the middle of the collective?

Are you setting an excessive amount of collective at step K, meaning that a top and bottom you have less 'room' for the cyclic that you want?

Can you do some photos?

Anyway, if it flies how you like it doesn't matter. There is no optimal, not for L, unless it is too slow, and you need to speed it up.

[Kinens]

If I let the swash plate links bottom out and press against the servo I can get the blue light. I back if off just enough to clear and get red. I think I am just on the edge of red/blue. I agree it's really only going to show up in heavy 3D..

K is set at +/- 14 degrees which is what the blade 550X manual calls for.

[sutty]

Interesting that K is set/recommended at 14. I think it might be tending towards the new norm, but you very often see 12. All mine are set to 12, and find it more than enough collective. I find 14 bogs on all but my most powerful set-up, if I use it all, plus it just makes it more difficult to operate the collective for tight control in a grass skimming inverted hover, with one tiny touch of the stick resulting in too much change. As a result I just stick with 12.

I think the real smack boys, with the top equipment too, can manage 14, but for us more normal guys, I question the logic.

If you had 12 at K, would it bind when you try to get blue when you set it at L?

[Kinens]

It's very close. I will start with 13 and see if I can get blue. I am far from a smack 3D and just working flips, rolls and inverted orientations.

[trexpro]

I think Sutty has definitely a point. Lower your collective to 12 degrees and you aren't binding at menu L. You have to much travel.

I also set all mine on 12

[Kinens]

I set it up to 12 degree and am able to get the blue status light. I can tell a definite difference with 12 versus 14. Slows everything down for me which isn't a bad thing.

[peteski]

Originally Posted by Kinens

I set it up to 12 degree and am able to get the blue status light. I can tell a definite difference with 12 versus 14. Slows everything down for me which isn't a bad thing.

Yeah it has the effect of reducing your rate throughout the collective range as well as reducing your max collective.

I also had a red light on menu point L (with blue on J set correctly at 6 deg). But in my case it wasn't due to mechanical binding, it was that my heli user manual recommended a max cyclic pitch of 10.5 deg (12 deg on collective). I ended up setting it a bit higher at point L to get a blue light (it came on at around 11 deg anyway). But I don't think it's important, it's just to warn the FBL unit how far it can physically push the swash around in extreme manoeuvres.