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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 04-03-2016, 10:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I didn't have to dremel the side frames on either one of mine.

I did have to dremel the tail boom on the first version of the thicker tail boom, at the front, so that I could get the belt tension I wanted with the 19T pulley. It was too tight, originally.

The later versions of the booms are slightly shorter to accommodate the 19T pulley.
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalleh View Post
I don't believe they will kill it, it doesn't make sense, and it would be a crying shame if it happened.

I would like to see the kit being modified such that no dremel is needed on the frame to build it. Some of the tolerances for the cutouts in the frame are way too tight.
My kit that I bought a few months ago went together perfectly. I did ask for a couple part replacements from prostar, but nothing major. I did sand the edges of the carbon fiber plates so they were not sharp. But that was preference, not necessity.
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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And this heli was a complete game changer for me learning 3d... The other heli I tried to start on were just sloppy in comparison
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Old 04-12-2016, 03:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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And don't forget: it crashes like a tank

Today I had my third crash in the year that I have had it. It went in hard at speed and roughly 45° from inverted, and I did not reach throttle hold before it was on the ground. Damage: main blades, one skid, canopy standoffs, boom, tail fin, one servo horn, and it stripped the gears on the elevator servo. It also got a small tear in the canopy, but it's nothing a bit of tape won't "fix". The boom actually only bent about 5°, so I'm sure it would have flown just fine if I was willing to put up with the belt slapping inside the boom.

If this had been my T-Rex 450L, the replacements parts list would have been at least twice as long. I can't believe how well this heli holds up. Someone tell me how to bend a main shaft!


Can't wait for the eXo since it seems to share many of the great features of the Warp...
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Old 04-12-2016, 03:42 PM   #25 (permalink)
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And don't forget: it crashes like a tank

Someone tell me how to bend a main shaft!

.
I'm happy not knowing how to help you on this lol.
But i've bent a few main hubs. Did you checked yours?

Warp is a wonderful machine
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsoebirk View Post
...Someone tell me how to bend a main shaft!
Apparently, the trick is to drop it down a flight of stairs as Mr. Anderson discovered through his misfortune. I'm still on the shaft that came with the rest of the heli.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:25 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luigi_tuga View Post
I'm happy not knowing how to help you on this lol.
But i've bent a few main hubs. Did you checked yours?
I have previously bent both a main hub and a tail hub, though not at the same time. But this time they both look straight.

I will double-check this though. I had a tip-over once, where I didn't see anything broken or bent, but on the next flight the cyclic servos got hot and I nearly LVC'ed the battery, even though the heli seemed to fly like normal. Turned out that the main hub had been bent just a few degrees in the tipover, and the FBL and servos were working massive overtime to compensate - oops. Luckily I caught it before I burnt anything out.
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:00 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeh, the hub does bend... but, its what, $8 or so, I'll take that over the constant spindles, bearings and grips I had to swap on my 450 Pro.
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:22 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The head of the warp is one of the things i falled for.
Compeetly different the other designs and weary presice.
But the hole in the hub could have been tighter against the shaft to prevent slop here.
I solve it by loctiting the whole thing on to the shaft a day befor mounting the bladegrips.
Now the hub sit realy well onto the shaft and i have to use a torch to heat the loctite to get it off again.
The hub could have been redesigned to have some more material holding on to the shaft underneeth as there is enough space anyway for the swash to moove up and down.
Anyway i like these head.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Totally agree. The hub should have been designed to pinch the shaft. I too have to use loc-tite to prevent slop between the hub and shaft... but, it's a tradeoff that I can live with.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:38 PM   #31 (permalink)
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wont a torch kill the surrounding area ?
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:46 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I take off the bladegrips first and lower the swash befor doing it.
Its just a minitorch and i heat the hub until the loctite releeses.
I have allso just twisted it off but im not shure how good that is for the oneway ore jesusbolt.
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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makes sense.

I got a used warp I tried to re-maiden only to find out the main shaft was wobbling like crazy.. I assumed it was the main shaft. I replaced the hub already and it still wobbled.

Hard to locate a new main shaft that is in stock ! ended up finding some company in Asia that had one.
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:44 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I have been concerned about the slop in the head hub. I contacted ProStar Hobby and they said it was normal and did not give me the Loctite suggestions. I'm going to try that now though

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