Setup of flybar seesaw and mixing arms

[feudallordcult]

Greetings to all. As per title, I have been trying to set my flybar E720. It has been somewhat frustrating as I am unable to get it righty esp at the seesaw n mixing arms. Can someone please enlighted the dimensions or alternatives to circumvent this issue pls? Thank u in advance.

[seanh]

Go to the Finless bobs tech area, look for the 101 section. There is a ccpm video that he does that should answer all your questions.

It's not that difficult...setup your radio for the swash you have (120, 90 etc), center your servo's (mid stick) and work your way up the head keeping everything at 90/0 with sticks centered.

Your question is a bit open ended...what specific problem are you having?

do you have a flybar lock? If not, get one as it makes the process much easier.

was the swash leveled at center stick, high and low stick as well?

[feudallordcult]

Kind Sir, many thanks for your reply. Apologies if my query wasn't clear. The E720 has a great way of setting neutral via "locking" the frame but I'm sure most would be privy to that fact. As such, that is not an issue.

My issue is the angle of alignment of the mixing arms. Should the longer end of the mixing arm be parallel to the seesaw hub or at an angle. I'm hvg issues following the length of the linkages to the swash. Somehow the flybar cannot be set at zero when all else is set at neutral. Not much help judging from pictures posted on TT's site. English fail me at times, pardon me if explanation still fails to clarify.

Anyway, pictures speak a thousand words.

[Hawk208]

As I said, the mixing arm will not parallel with the hub at 0 pitch.
Only the center line of radius arm (the arm on slider connecting to swashplate) will perpendicular to the main shaft.

PS: you might want to install the pivot lock shaft on the spindle.

[feudallordcult]

Originally Posted by Hawk208

As I said, the mixing arm will not parallel with the hub at 0 pitch.
Only the center line of radius arm (the arm on slider connecting to swashplate) will perpendicular to the main shaft.

PS: you might want to install the pivot lock shaft on the spindle.

Thanks for the great tip! Btw, sorry if this is a really silly question but can I assume that pivot lock shaft is a tool or component?

[seanh]

I thought on this head with the redesigned grips you could get everything at 90....guess I was mistaken.

What he's talking about, if I'm understanding the intent, is a tool that locks the flybar in place...keeps it from pivoting...keeps it level/locked. It's not a requirement to have but sure makes the job easier.

[Hawk208]

Originally Posted by feudallordcult

Thanks for the great tip! Btw, sorry if this is a really silly question but can I assume that pivot lock shaft is a tool or component?

It might be the photo that I didn't see it.
check your manual at page 9, there is a part "BK3012"
it's a good idea to install that to lock the spindle in place so the pivot motion is always centered.
The redesigned grip (ctrl arm to be accurate) is for flybarless and the ball link needs to be modified.

[feudallordcult]

BK3012 according to page 9 of manual pertains to main rotor hub pin which is currently not installed. According to previous owner, he was told that it's better not to install that part for F3C flying...huh?

Anyway, thanks for all the inputs, I am grateful for the advice.

[Hawk208]

The hub pin is to prevent off center pivot motion.
Most of the time, it is unnecessary when both head dampers are
in good conditions. However, the hub pin become a critical part when the damper is no longer paired. For example that one damper became harder than the other. Under this particular circumstance, the pivot motion will be off the rotational center causing unwanted vibration or mechanical failure.

[feudallordcult]

Thanks Hawk208! Superb explanation