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06-22-2015, 03:33 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2012
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os32 Rebuild Help, Ring, Seal, os32 Needles
cuppla questions, can you keep a rubber seal blue urethane, on the back bearing facing toward the front of the motor to help down stroke pressure and not risk it becoming dissolved in nitro? In this orientation you get sealing while remaining away from the crank and the back is open to maintain lubing. I'm trying to source a front bearing with a seal and might have to get a size where a sleeve must be used, 9x17x6 is rare.
and, how can you slip the cylinder in over the piston when it has a ring? took her apart due to unreliability, discovered cracked carb o-ring, gunked rear bearing, worn a little, two copper glow sealing washers instead of one under the glow plug, a ring with more gap than I prefer, and took some time to flow port the sleeve and blend the crank and port match the exhaust. Now, after I'm putting it back together I can imagine it'll use more fuel wot and there's only one needle, 2 turns got it running a week ago with some power but not 100%. Regarding the second needle, in the throttle arm, and does it need adjustment? its presently screwed in all the way tightly, I have to run idle at 17 points from shut tx to get it to hold idle. |
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06-22-2015, 04:21 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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You can use a rubber sealed bearing (with the inside seal removed) for the front bearing although a regular shielded bearing works just fine. I would not leave a rubber seal on either side of the rear bearing. As far as getting the ring in, the bottom of the sleeve is tapered so it acts like a ring compressor. Just be certain the ring gap lines up with the locating pin, and the sleeve lines up with the pin in the block. This keeps the ring gap out of the ports. Do NOT NOT NOT rotate the sleeve as you slide it in.
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06-23-2015, 11:03 AM | #3 (permalink) |
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
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ok. so it's almost back together again and what I discovered after the first try was a little 3 in one or castor oil works miracles in allowing the ring to glide right in to the sleeve. another thing was the gap, was originally between the exhaust and second port toward the other side of the motor, the WIDE section on the other side of the locator pin.
Do these nitro sleeves ever get a slight hone when a new ring is installed, a ring that might be hard to locate for the 32. Ohh yeah, it ran fine on 20% last year and since been using 30%, what should I keep in mind for this switch? |
06-23-2015, 07:24 PM | #4 (permalink) |
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
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holeeeeeee, put her back together and spun it up, after working out some fuel delivery problems it spun like a formula 1 engine and smoooooooooth as silk. Not only did I port the sleeve I also blended , rounded and radius'd every 90* hard edge and the intake runner in the crank. Didn't spin her full speed yet but it sounds encouraging from the short test this evening,
there ya have it, porting, polishing, flow blending, everything for efficiency and power, whoeeeeee. It's helpful to have some experience porting full size v8 motors as I've done a chevy 305 v8 nearly doubling it's hp, everything ported, port matched, blended, polished combustion chambers, didn't do any bottom end knife edging of the crank as it retained the original, shocked me how much a stocker could be opened up. Did a few 350's too. anxiety is high toward testing it in flight, when the motor sounds like it's more single note than percussive with the exhaust sound, kinda scary good, omg what have I done? now for the before and after pics before afta Last edited by Icanfly; 06-24-2015 at 05:01 PM.. |
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