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Kasama Helicopters and Upgrades Kasama Srimok 90 Helicopters and Upgrades Discussion |
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12-13-2010, 07:30 AM | #61 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I have the same balls as Sage on my mixingarms and will get the same issue when i set up the head. Well i am waiting for the Futaba fbl to get released before i decide between that and vbar, so i got plenty of time to thinker with this.(Really like that almost hardmounted sensor of the futaba fbl, probably means it can handle vibs good) Thats one thing i like with aligns fbl head on my 600, i can get stupid amounts of pitch, both cyclic and collective, without binding.
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Jan Futaba T14SG, Copterx/align 450 Pro miniVbar, Tianzi TZ 50 (Stinger 50), T-Rex 600N pro Vbar, Kasama Srimok 90n ECO Vbar, Minicopter Diabolo 14s Kosmik200 pyro800 Vbar |
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12-13-2010, 08:56 AM | #62 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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You're right, I had to shorten the short link.to get more available range and avoid the link binding on the ball.
IMO it would have made sense to design the mixer arm so that both balls are on the front on it, not one on the front and the other one on the side. Maybe that would have taken care of the problem. i'm wondering if maybe an Outrage mixer arm could work here... like this one: http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/r90n...y-p-12336.html It uses M3 balls and bolt and is angled a bit like the Kasama one. Only thing is the ball for the short link has to be short in order to no bind on the grip arm
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Ben Goblin 500 IKON w/ gov, Quantum 4115-1200, Hitec 5245, BLS251 DX8, RF6 |
12-13-2010, 10:42 AM | #63 (permalink) |
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So, what you say is that you shorten the short link, make the long link longer and end up with the balls on the mixingarm about level to eachother at O pitch.
About right?
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Jan Futaba T14SG, Copterx/align 450 Pro miniVbar, Tianzi TZ 50 (Stinger 50), T-Rex 600N pro Vbar, Kasama Srimok 90n ECO Vbar, Minicopter Diabolo 14s Kosmik200 pyro800 Vbar |
12-13-2010, 12:16 PM | #64 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Exactly
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Ben Goblin 500 IKON w/ gov, Quantum 4115-1200, Hitec 5245, BLS251 DX8, RF6 |
12-13-2010, 12:24 PM | #65 (permalink) |
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So HeliBenj, just to nag you a bit more , could we get the lenght of the shortlink on your heli, just to get us in the ballpark?
Thanks
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Jan Futaba T14SG, Copterx/align 450 Pro miniVbar, Tianzi TZ 50 (Stinger 50), T-Rex 600N pro Vbar, Kasama Srimok 90n ECO Vbar, Minicopter Diabolo 14s Kosmik200 pyro800 Vbar |
12-18-2010, 05:40 PM | #66 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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OK guys, today was an absolute success!!! Followed John's advise and contacted Gavin B through Kasama who added a few other tips and everything worked wonderfully. Just to resume this issue the points to take into account are these:
- When setting the tail gear hight and before lowering the main gear and crown, check that once you set mesh the tail pinion doesn't end too high and rubs the tail boom on the inside. I raised it a little bit past mid point, lowered the crown gear and tightened it and then set tail pinion mesh. In the manual it insists on the adjustment screw ending almost horizontal, this is "important". - Make sure the main bearing blocks are tight against the main gear, zero play. I thought I had followed instructions correctly and still found a tiny bit of play. - Tail pinion mesh should be closer to 0,3mm rather than 0,5mm. Follow advise as to do it by eye or by ear, but err on the tight side, then check if there is plastic debris after flight, if there is, it's too tight. - Really tighten those screws and bolts, both the main bearing ones and the tail pinion ones to guarantee they don't move in flight. - Apply some silicone grease to main and crown gears. It somehow works wonders. - Check crown gear for high and low points every 90 degrees. Mine was dead straight, but you might be setting mesh on a high point and end up having too much on a low point. - Recheck mesh after 2 or 3 first flights and readjust if necessary. That's it. Thanks everyone for your help. Today was a wonderful day at the field, couldn't be happier. C you around, Marcos. |
12-31-2010, 12:58 AM | #67 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Spot on there marcos
I used the same methods you suggested when building my faifa. When done this way the heli is super smooth. I have around 20 flights on myn and from the maiden untill now i have not been able to pick a single vibration. Its tune has not changed. Regardless of what head speed i run. Bring on the next 20, sorry 200 flights. P.S. Very important not to have any end float in the main mast. Check it after every flight for the first 10 or so. If there is none after that then you are good to go. Sometimes the bearings in the middle and lower bearings blocks fully seat in after a few flights leaving a very minute amount of end float. If you do develope some, remove it and make sure your main mast bearing block bolts are tight. Happy flying..... |
01-03-2011, 10:20 AM | #68 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Well, that's something I dealt with this weekend. In redoing the bearings I stripped the two bolts holding the mid bearing holder. It was a minor strip and the whole system felt tight. Took off, and after the first roll the heli went crazy and had a nasty nasty crash (outside the field, almost on a road that passes by). The bearing moved up and the crown gear separated from the torque tube pinion. So tightness is key...
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01-10-2011, 06:15 AM | #69 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Here you go.
I used some round 3mm spacers, they where from the MA Razor I think, but anything will do.. a bit hard to see, but there is one of these spacers inside the servo-mount, against the frame. |
01-10-2011, 09:42 PM | #70 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Here's a summary of my must-dos as posted on a UK forum:
IMHO there are three major sources of vibe trouble: Tail - Make sure the tail rotor grips are adjusted to be identical distance away from the hub. Preferably balance the whole assembly with blades mounted - even the M3 tail blade bolts can vary in weight
If you are having vibe problems and have checked the above rip the head off and check it's square to the mast-spindle axis and also mast sits middle of the front-back plane - a few cyber heads escaped slightly out of true in the front to back axis which I personally didn't find a problem but some have.
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John Last edited by Mercuriell; 01-12-2011 at 03:04 PM.. |
01-16-2011, 11:32 AM | #71 (permalink) |
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Hi guys!
I propose a solution for use Xera 4035/2.5y-480 on Fai-Fa. (It is can also be used with other long-motors) I picked up 4 new screw M3x10 (you can use M3x12) and 4 nuts M4x4.6 (you can use the same size washers) Native screws in the background I use four M3x10 screws for fix Lower tray battery CF through four M4x4.6 nuts to the two Battery tray mounting. As on the photo: Realy this is simply. Last edited by morrolucky; 01-16-2011 at 03:24 PM.. |
09-07-2011, 01:15 AM | #72 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Thread M3 in front tail boom support has been stripped. If somebody have this problem, there is a solution:
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09-07-2011, 01:23 AM | #73 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Morrolucky, I just both the same motor for my Faifa. I had a lot of troubles with Pyro. Witch size of pinion are you using ?
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09-09-2011, 02:02 PM | #76 (permalink) |
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@kotatko: Just curious but what kind of trouble with a pyro motor? I fly Pyro since i bought it an no problem with the motor at all!!
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Helis:; Kasama Srimok ECO - V-Bar; Kasama Faifa LRH V-Bar; Voodoo700; Trex700N; Radio: MX-20 Hott |
09-10-2011, 12:50 AM | #77 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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1) shaft bend from box
2) bearings need to be changed after 50 flights 3) magnets unglued after next 40 flights Pyro is not a bad motor, but horrible quality on my. |
12-19-2011, 04:21 AM | #78 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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I know i should have more faith in myself, But sometimes I just don't.
Any kind soul able to reaffirm the tail pitch slider direction during left/right rudder input? Or gyro correction input for that matter. Zanks!
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The irresistible desire, for the irresistibly desired. |
12-19-2011, 05:00 AM | #79 (permalink) |
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Easy way to check this:
Set the tail so one blade points up and one down, fold the top blade 90 degrees so it points forward, then move your rudderstick in any direction, the blade should follow your stick, meaning if you use stick left the blade should point to the left(seen from behind) Use same metod for checking the tail gyro input, move the tail so that the nose goes right and the tailblade should point to the left, or even easier, the tailblade should follow the way you move the tail of the heli. If the tail moves left the tailblade should point to the left, if the tail moves right the tailblade should point to the right.
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Jan Futaba T14SG, Copterx/align 450 Pro miniVbar, Tianzi TZ 50 (Stinger 50), T-Rex 600N pro Vbar, Kasama Srimok 90n ECO Vbar, Minicopter Diabolo 14s Kosmik200 pyro800 Vbar |
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