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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 06-16-2016, 10:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Wobble

I picked up a Warp 360 used and cannot figure out whats wrong,

It has a crazy cyclic wobble it seems.

Main shaft is straight, blades are balanced, and spools up smooth.

Ikon using default setups. hard 3d hobbles as does sport mode. 450 class chosen.

Any ideas ?
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thrust bearings may need replaced. I get a nod that doesn't tune out very well when this is the case.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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hmm.. I would find that pretty strange.. but I will order some new bearings and thrust bearings and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It could also be a slightly bent main rotor hub.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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no I replaced the hub and main shaft.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My other warp is in a different country at the moment (I leave it there to fly with buddies)

What is the normal movement in the blade grips ?

only some lateral but zero vertical ? I am thinking maybe the thrust bearings were in backwards ?
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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s0laris,

I was tuning a Warp for a guy and kept inching up the cyclic gain (Pot 1) on the BeastX.

I went a bit too far and got violent, high-amplitude shaking that looked for all the world like it was unbelievably out of balance. My friends at the flying field who saw it, thought there was something terribly out of balance. They told me, in no uncertain terms, it had a horrible mechanical problem.

I tried to explain that I had caused it (they did not believe me-even though I had it flying smoothly right before I upped the gain the last time).

I turned the cyclic gain back down and it was perfectly smooth again (in fact it flew beautifully).

Not sure if this is possibly what you ran into (I know that you are running a different FBL unit), but it might be worth looking in to.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If it's used and you have checked all of that other common stuff. I might suspect the dampners.

Since you are ordering thrust bearings anyways, which could be suspect, get dampners and just rebuild the head. Not a bad idea if it's used anyways, it's cheap, and at least you will know what's going on in there.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Holy cow, I just took my head apart. And there's NO dampeners. No wonder it flies so well...
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GravityJunkie View Post
Holy cow, I just took my head apart. And there's NO dampeners. No wonder it flies so well...
Lol
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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the carbon pieces on the head are the dampeners.

I suspected the ikon cyclic gains too but in all 3 modes it does the same thing.

sport, advanced, hard 3d
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GravityJunkie View Post
Holy cow, I just took my head apart. And there's NO dampeners. No wonder it flies so well...
+1
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Old 06-20-2016, 01:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s0laris View Post
the carbon pieces on the head are the dampeners.

I suspected the ikon cyclic gains too but in all 3 modes it does the same thing.

sport, advanced, hard 3d
Are you sure changing the flight type actually change the gains? I can't remember off the top of my head.

Did you ever attempt to turn the cyclic gain down and see how it works?
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes the gains are definitely different for each mode, but I can try and see if doing it manually makes a difference.

I have another warp with an ikon and it runs smooth with the default ikon settings.

That was why i purchased the second one as a backup
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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A simple test would be to swap the main mast and rotorhead.
And if you swap the swash too its jut to remoove the lower jesusbolt and pull the shaft out.
If your new head fly well on the heli with Ikon then its the FBL controller and not the new head.
The only other thing i can think about is exessive vibrations in the tail.
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I didn't mean to just manually redo the values. Lower it past the stock settings and see what happens. Keep lowering it until it goes away or it gets too low and sloppy in flight.

Since you checked out things manually, I'd start to dig into the electrical. Check over the servos, including plugs and wires. If that doesn't turn up anything, I'd try swapping parts between them to see if you can narrow down what is going on.
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Old 06-21-2016, 10:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The swapping of the head would have been the 1st thing I tried.

However I keep the second Warp in another country along with other helis to fly there when I go visit

I do not have them side by side.
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Old 06-21-2016, 10:26 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I was just asking for the normal blade grip movements as I do not remember anymore how it was supposed to behave.

I will take apart the grips tonight. I am hoping the thrust bearings were put in backwards which I think could cause wobble with the smaller diameter plates on the wrong side.

BTW thanks for all the comments and help. Much appreciated
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The bladegrips comes ready assembled from the factory and only the outer race have to be remooved to grease them and the inner race is hard to get out so most possible they are right.
But taoe a look to be absolutly shure.
But if and when everything is right mechanially lower the P gain considerable and take a test flight.
If its a gain issue you wil get a muchy helicopter but no wobble.
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Old 06-21-2016, 01:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Oh sorry, a little movement is fine in the grips.

On one side of my head, it's tight. No lateral or horizontal movement. On the other side, I have a bit of horizontal movement and just a touch of vertical. There shouldn't be much vertical movement, if at all. There could be a bit more horizontal movement.
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