cyclic beastx blue at 6.8

[crf69]

is there a problem running this???

i didnt get the blue until 6.8.

Gaui X5

everything else is perfect!!!!

[Bob O]

There shouldn't be a problem, but I have to wonder if there's something you can do to get blue at 6*. You need a tad more resolution at the servos in order to bring it down into blue. Moving the balls on the servo horn or servo wheel in one hole would probably be too much. If you wanted to try it, it's quick and easy enough.

The other thing you could try is to move the ball on the blade grip outward if the blade grip arm has more than one hole for adjustibility. One last thing to try would be to get shorter balls for the inner swash ring where the pitch control links attach. This wouldn't apply if you already have short balls there.

Pics of your setup?

[crf69]

one minute

[crf69]

ok more like 8 minutes

if i move the servos to another inner hole the angle of the links will be messed up.

[Bob O]

Looks like you could go to a shorter ball on the inner swash if you wanted to.

On a related note, I just built a TT X50 with MB and don't get blue until 6.9 degrees. The only option I have is to go inward on the servo wheels, which I haven't tried yet. I'm already using the innermost holes on the wheels that came with the servos. I ordered some wheels with hole spacing 1mm closer to the shaft, but haven't tried them yet.

What I planned on doing was flying with 6* and red LED to see how it feels and behaves. If it's fine then I'm likely to leave it the way it is.

[wrathofkhan]

Had a question related to the Cyclic/Blue light.

On my heli, I get the Blue light way early, maybe at around 4 degrees or so. The way I have done it is, keep increasing the cyclic until I do get 6 degrees ... and then stop on that particular setup step.

It seems like, the way AR7200bx is setup, there is a range ... wherein, the light stays Blue.

Wondering if my setup will cause any problem. I have been flying it though, doesn't seem to have erratic behavior. But, I am not an expert ...

cheers, Khan

[Bob O]

Khan,

Once it goes blue it stays blue. There's a range of purple and red, but not blue. You're getting it way early. Seems that you would easily be able to move the balls out on the servo arms/wheels one hole to get closer to the threshold of red/blue.

[wrathofkhan]

Thanks Bob O

I was digging around the MicroBeast Forum site, and I found the following written by Stefan Hornstein (some time back):

"For Point J:

Here you teach the MICROBEAST the servothrow or better say the relationship between servothrow and deflection. If the LED is blue, than this is a sign for you that everything is okay. The resolution is sufficient and you should reach enough maximum cyclic deflection and hopfully also enough collective pitch.

If you get 6° earlier - red or purple - there is something not okay with your geometry. The servo only does little throw but already makes big deflections. This is not good for the control mechanism because it will always tend to overreact.

If you get 6° very late - long after blue - this is OK when thinking about resolution. But this indicates that your Servo is already doing a huge range of throw and there will not be much left for getting enough maximum deflection like 12° or so. This maximum deflection is needed first of all to get enough rotation speed but more important, to give the control mechanism enough room to work correctly. Because when doing maneuvers like highspeed flying or retaining the heli you can't see this but the system will work in this range."

So what I understood is: for setup step J, having too little (i.e. Red or Purple) is really not good, but early Blue is OK ... but should be improved if possible

Khan

[sutty]

Originally Posted by wrathofkhan

On my heli, I get the Blue light way early, maybe at around 4 degrees or so.

In my opinion you are blue way too early. Yes, as stated by Stefan, and as is clear anyway, your resolution will be exceptional, but your set-up will be suffering elswhere. If you go blue so early you slow the effective speed of the servos, as they have to rotate so far, and you will cause them to go to their extremes of travel to achieve sensible levels of collective, especially when combined with useful levels of cyclic. Going blue a little early, no problem, going blue so early, even if it does stay blue, as it is in effect never ending, I think will be far from optimal.

In my opinion BeastX should have had an ending to blue, flashing blue, or something, although as I mentioned in another post recently, because you limit your throws by going blue so early, you would probably pretty much find out when you go to K, set collective range, and L, set cyclic limits, that you would be having issues. In fact I am surprised you could achieve reasonable collective without your arms being almost straight up by the time you are near say +12, or vice versa. I'm also surprised that you could get blue in L, set cyclic limits, but I assume you must have.

As Bob explained, there is certainly room to move out at least one hole on your servo arms, and this will have you going blue much nearer to 6, and give you more travel elsewhere to play with, and if you weren't blue at L, you probably will be then.

Don't forget to re-visit the other items that will be based on servo arm positions.


Cheers

Sutty

[n6nev]

I just installed the DFC head on a 550e, and now I am getting blue at 8* so I am flying 6* in the red and it flys fine. So I moved the Blade grip arm to the inner balls on ;the swash and now it"s 6* in the blue. Great , except it's a 4.75 mm ball, not a 5mm ball. I ordered the short 5mm ball and that should fix it part # h60234 has 2 long 5mm, and 2 short 5mm, and one 4.75 ball....

[n6nev]

It would help if the table was level. a correction there now allows me 7* and not 8* . getting closer and closer.................

[wrathofkhan]

OK, I did some major changes to my heli to get 6 degrees at exactly Blue (Step J)

I also made sure that I get blue at extremes (there is slight binding, at full pitch, elevator ... but I think I live with that). (Step L)

The way I did it is 1. lengthen the servo arm/ball distance and also 2. worked on the swashplate

I had to lower the pitch to +/-12 degrees, if I kept it as before (+/-14) ... then there was too much binding at extremes (Step K)

Test flew it earlier today, to be honest ... I did not fell much of a difference. I fly basic 3d (just learning hurricanes). Maybe for extreme 3d guys it would make a difference ... not sure for my level it does much. When I was doing stationary flips, it did track a bit better ... not 100% sure.

Now my heli's wiring is all messed up, it looks like a bird's nest ... lol

[Super S]

What if you can't get 6 degrees. I don't get a blue light until almost 9 degrees! I have the Align 600n LE. I am using the Align DFC Head with the modified shaft. In step Just I have exactly 0 degrees but the blue light won't come on till I get almost 9 degrees. I have moved my servo balls into the holes closest to the center but didn't make much of a difference. What does it really matter if you get 6? I have flown it like this and didn't notice anything.

[Bob O]

You can get 6 degrees, it's a matter of what color the LED is when you reach 6. Yours has to be red or maybe even purple?

You should attempt to get it closer to 6. 9 degrees is 50% farther away than what you want, which is the blue LED right at 6 degrees. Maybe post a pic of your setup and we might be able to see what's causing you to be so far off.

As far as if it really matters? See Stefan's post HERE and decide for yourself if you want to leave it the way you have it or not.

[Super S]

OK. I found some different servo wheels. I am in as far as I can go to the center before I start binding on the servo case itself. I now get 6 degrees just after the light turns Red. I don't know what else to do. See pic. Any suggestions?

[sutty]

Surprised that you would have to go in further, but if you do then I guess you do. To avoid binding with the servo case could you not mount the links on the outside of both the servo arms and the crank?

Two additional things that can get you nearer to blue are longer balls on the outer swash, and shorter balls on the inner swash. These are available, but I'm sorry I don't have part numbers for you. Perhaps others could help here.

Aren't there also some alternate grip arms for the DFC head that move the balls further out from the head. Not sure, but I thought I had some recollection of reading something about this. Further out from the head with the grips also gets you nearer to blue, as again it is improving the resolution.

With regard to flying with different colours, I flew my 600 in the purple, as I was having a similar problem to you. It flew very well, very controlled still. I too switched to star arms, to improve things, but mine had 4 holes, and I am second hole out from the middle with DS610s. The measurement is 10mm, centre of output shaft to centre of ball, but I don't have a DFC head, so we can't do a direct comparison here. When I got it into the red, very near blue, although it still flew in the same controllable manner, the agility, roll and flip rates, etc, was considerably better. Good enough for me, but I guess blue would be even better. I am running with standard FB grips though, just using the longer ball links to reach the centre of the head, and turned upside down so that they are leading edge control, so I have a draw back here. If and when I damage the grips I will get the correct ones which will improve things for me further still and I might be able to get blue @ 6.

Good luck trying to get there, it will improve things, so it is worth trying, in my opinion. Off, or purple can result in unpredicatable flight, but purple didn't for me. Red is definitely fine. Loads of people fly in the red, especially if you are red but close to blue.

Cheers

Sutty

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by Super S

OK. I found some different servo wheels. I am in as far as I can go to the center before I start binding on the servo case itself. I now get 6 degrees just after the light turns Red. I don't know what else to do. See pic. Any suggestions?

Unfortunately moving the balls to the outside of the servo wheel will result in interference with the canopy. Here's a shot from the 600LE I had two years ago.



I can't see the inner swash balls in the pic, but there are short ones available if yours are longer, which like sutty said will help you get into blue. Did any balls come with the DFC head? When I bought my 3G head, it came with two shorter balls for the inner swash.

Here's a pic of the standard length ball. If the balls you have that go from the swash to the blade grips are this length, you need to get the shorter ones. These might work.



I don't know what the right combination is to use with the DFC head. Some setups and some FBL units might not be the best match for each other.

Right now I'm dealing with getting down from 6.9 degrees on my Titan X50 with MB. My 600LE (3G head) and Velocity 50 (OR head) fell right into place with 6* and blue without even trying. The X50 is a whole 'nother story.

Sometimes it takes some work. How close you get it will depend upon how much effort you give it, and whether or not you need or what the precision of a perfect setup.

Good luck!!

[Super S]

OK. I think I have it. I found some shorter balls. I now get 6 degrees exactly as the light turns blue. I think that is as good as it is going to get.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by Super S

OK. I think I have it. I found some shorter balls. I now get 6 degrees exactly as the light turns blue. I think that is as good as it is going to get.

Those look like the correct length balls.

[Abenn]

Glad I found this thread. I'm new to fbl and to BeastX, and have the same issue as some of the contributors here -- I'm getting the red led at 6 degrees with my T-Rex 550e.

So, from the above posts I believe I ideally need to get a bit less movement on my blades by moving the ball on the servo arm in a bit (I'm on the inner hole of the standard Align arms, so would need new arms), or by using longer balls on the outer swash.

Also, from comments in the most recent post by sutty, I believe that since I'm still only hovering and doing a bit of slow forward flight and figures of eight, it might not be worth changing anything for the moment.

Am I right on these points, please?