Roban Airwolf 800 build

[mastrg]

Hello, This is my first attempt at a scale build Roban Airwolf 800. Picked it because it was big and easy to see. Every thing was great started assembling retracts and landing gear following the manual. Pulled most of what is left of my hair with two up one down landing gear. Kept calling out to RCA no response from them. Figured I would try a reversing lead to the front retract, that did the trick. The problem I am running to now the initial measurements for the cyclic and pitch linkage are not working every link is to long. Starting to see ball links crack and separate from the linkage. I want to replace them before I have a major mishap or worse. Was wondering if any one knows which helicopter mechanics this is based on. I can not as of now post any pictures of anything because I am being vetted Any help would surely be appreciated. Thanks, Gary

[treotraveler]

Originally Posted by mastrg

Hello, This is my first attempt at a scale build Roban Airwolf 800. Picked it because it was big and easy to see. Every thing was great started assembling retracts and landing gear following the manual. Pulled most of what is left of my hair with two up one down landing gear. Kept calling out to RCA no response from them. Figured I would try a reversing lead to the front retract, that did the trick. The problem I am running to now the initial measurements for the cyclic and pitch linkage are not working every link is to long. Starting to see ball links crack and separate from the linkage. I want to replace them before I have a major mishap or worse. Was wondering if any one knows which helicopter mechanics this is based on. I can not as of now post any pictures of anything because I am being vetted Any help would surely be appreciated. Thanks, Gary

I'll get back with you later tonight, i'm really busy right now....

[ssmith512]

Subscribed.

VERY interested in your build write up / review of this heli. I have been on the fence about buying one myself for the past couple of weeks.

I think the mechanics are Roban's own "design". Can you measure the diameter of the balls the links snap onto? They might be a "standard" size like Align uses, but need to make sure first.

[Feral]

Subbed

[700super]

The ball links do thread on tight. I'm building the AS350 right now. I lightly heated them and it made the job much easier. No cracks either, but I'm going to keep an eye on them. I think I heard Goblin has similar sizing but not sure.

[mastrg]

Hi there, Just getting from work, boy I hate rainy days. I checked the manual and then verified it on the heli the balls are 5mm. I was on the fence for quite awhile my self. Then just pulled the trigger. I got mine with free US shipping, good thing because shipping was pretty steep. When it was delivered the FedEx driver was more excited then I was, until I unboxed it. Very well packed, then it hit me stayed up three days straight messing with it. After installing the retracts I decided to respray the fuse in the correct color. Kind of wished they sold it unpainted. Well I am thinking replace all the ball links and linkage with higher quality hardware. I really appreciate any input from you all. I am coming from 1/4 scale surface. They were not suppose to fly, but usually would.

[treotraveler]

Originally Posted by mastrg

Hello, This is my first attempt at a scale build Roban Airwolf 800. Picked it because it was big and easy to see. Every thing was great started assembling retracts and landing gear following the manual. Pulled most of what is left of my hair with two up one down landing gear. Kept calling out to RCA no response from them. Figured I would try a reversing lead to the front retract, that did the trick. The problem I am running to now the initial measurements for the cyclic and pitch linkage are not working every link is to long. Starting to see ball links crack and separate from the linkage. I want to replace them before I have a major mishap or worse. Was wondering if any one knows which helicopter mechanics this is based on. I can not as of now post any pictures of anything because I am being vetted Any help would surely be appreciated. Thanks, Gary

RCA is not open on the weekends. The mechanics are not copied from another machine, they are Roban scale mechanics that use large heli parts, like bearings, main shaft, swash, 5mm linkage balls and ball links, etc.

The Linkage rods are not pre adjusted, it is left to the builder to properly adjust and set up linkage rods. I am replacing all ball links with Align, so if you need ball links, Align Trex 700 HN 70581 ball links will work. 12 are in the pack, you need 10, 6 for the servo to bell cranks and 4 for bell cranks to swash.

If you need linkage balls, get a pack of Trex 700 linkage balls. HN 7065 has 5mm assorted balls.

I highly recommend complete disassembly of mechanics. Mine had no loctite on bolts, and most of the bolts were finger tight. And 3 stripped linkage ball holes on the swash outer ring and no loctite. Cliff and I are going to have a little talk about this. I may end up replacing the swash with a Trex 700 swash. Also, clean the excessive grease off of the metal umbrella gears. Don't put your machine in the air until you go through the mechanics. This heli is not for beginners.

I am going the extra mile on more scale detail on mine.....

[mastrg]

Treotraveler Thanks for that info. You are right, I checked every thing and all of my hardware was hand tight and no thread lock anywhere near this thing. I understand about the linkage. I was following the manual recommendations could not get any of those measurements. I am going to add a little more scale details as well. All the navigation lights, also a fpv camera with recording capabilities trying to add audio also. Did you have any problems with the retracts setup maybe I missed something. Well I am still waiting for the weather to break so I finish with the clear coat while I order the new hardware. Thanks again for your help. Gary

[ssmith512]

Originally Posted by mastrg

After installing the retracts I decided to respray the fuse in the correct color.

MUST SEE PICS!!!

[mastrg]

I hope I do this right. A couple of pictures, just a mock up.



Boy my photography skills need some work I will try for some better pix. Don't be to hard on me guys.

[ssmith512]

Those pics suck!! LOL! Haha just kidding

Thanks for the pics, looks really good. Must post more.

[mastrg]

Just waiting for more parts to show up. Decided to change out the ball links to be safe.
Had a link come off just cycling the servos on the stand. That would of made a big hole in the ground. Still working out the pictures may need a better camera. Trying to affix the tail boom wings looking at epoxy, will that be strong enough to keep them on? Maybe I will experiment with JB weld and screws. The doghouse is pinned and magnetic, but I am looking for something to secure the front a little better. I needed smaller hands for installing retracts in. The wooden frame work should have been builder installed to make it easier. Oh well live and learn for the next one. Cheers Gary

[ssmith512]

I think you did yourself a huge favor by changing the ball links for sure.

Regarding gluing the wings on the tail boom, whatever glue you use, make sure to roughen up both mating surfaces with some rough grit sandpaper. Epoxies dont like smooth surfaces. If you use epoxy, I wouldnt use anything faster than 30 minute epoxy, 1 hour would be better, make sure to mix it thoroughly. The real deal shiznit is stuff called Hysol. You can get it from McMaster-Carr. It aint cheap, but man does it work.

I was wondering about the doghouse too, and I am like you, when mine arrives, I would like to figure out a way to have a mechanical fastener at least at the very front. The pins in the back should be OK.

Thanks again for sharing your build! Looking forward to more.

[treotraveler]

Hey Gary

I ended up cutting 3mm off of each end of the servo rods to get the length per the manual. Each rod has 12mm of thread, so cutting 3mm off each end, shortened the rods. After dressing the rod ends with a fine file, leaves 8.5 mm of thread. The rods are harden steel, pita if using diagonal cutters. Plenty of thread left for the Align Trex 700 ball links.
Suggestion, thread the Align ball links onto the rod before cutting the end down. It makes it easier to thread the ball links onto the rod after cutting the rod ends.

I used Hyperion servos, so carefully messure what you need for total rod length before you cut anything off for the servos you have. Meassure two or three times, and cut once.

I do not like the angle of the aileron servo rods. So I will be moving the aileron bell cranks to the outside of the control shaft 'A' frames to get them straight....

[mastrg]

Hey Treotraveler, thanks for the info. I see what you are talking about the angles, not sure I understand how you move it outside of the a arm. Please explain, my ball links and new tools showed up this evening. Changing them out should keep busy for a bit. I epoxied the boom wings on earlier this evening, I used evercoat got 6 hours before I can touch it and 24 for a full cure. Should work out fine they put vettes together with it. Well off to eat, then back to work shop. CheersI

[Mpxlandre]

Hey all,

my Airwolf has now 15 flights and is flying well. In Germany is a Diskussion about the Roban Quality, but this doesent matter. The Heli is flying well but Not for Beginnes. It is no out of the Box product. You have to Check everything and You Must do Little modifications.

-Landing Gear
The Screws for the Servo mounts are to Long an will block the Motor and mechanics of the front Gear. Check it before assembling

The Springs Are Not soft enough in the First Series. You Cant press them with your Fingers. There are new in the Second Series

The Retract clearance is to much. Remove it before assembling by dissassembling the Part with the tires and take of a very Little Bit Material where the Screws fit

-belt drive
Sometimes the Belt could Hit the mechanics side frame. You have to extend the Segment to the front for 1cm

-Gear Drive tail Rotor
You have to eliminate the clearance to a absolute Minimum with washers.

Thats what you MUST do. You have Not to change the swashplate or something.

Herr is the German Thread. Tomate the pictures You Must create a account.
http://www.rc-heli.de/board/showthread.php?t=233850

If you have questions feel free to ask :-)

So Long, Andre

[ssmith512]

Thanks for the information Andre!! :-)

[Mpxlandre]

Originally Posted by ssmith512

Thanks for the information Andre!! :-)

You are welcome :-)

By the Way. The Top fuselage Part is Secure with the magnets. Maybe you could add some More Magnets, but you dont Need Screws.

My setup is 5800 10s Lipo. Flight Time at 1350 rpm is 10 Minutes with 1000 mA Reserve in the Lipos.. Max Amp 45A. Average 30A.

I am Using Vstabi vbar pro. The Sensor CAN NOT mounted at the Plattform of the mechanics. There are to much vibrations over the tail boom and the Gear Box.
You have to Mount the Sensor at the wooden Part of the fuselage.

So Long, Andre

[ssmith512]

Just read your entire build log Andre. Fantastic!!! Great amount of very good information. Thank you very much for sharing. I will be using your suggestions when I start building mine.

Steve

[mastrg]

Hey, Steve and Andre been trying to register on the German web site. But I only speak 2 languages English and vulgar So I was lost at the registration page. I thought also to add more magnets, but I must strengthen the flat egdes first. That evercoat 100816 worked extremely strong, I let it setup a few minutes to get tacky. It held them in place until I got everything clamped in place. The bond is stronger than the fuselage now.
Back to changing ball links, I put them in hot water then ran a tap in them no splitting now.