Castle 80HV Explodes in Fire on the Bench!

[praetorious]

extrapilot,

didn't say what I wanted at first, but yes, I will go with low. Anyways, Thanks for the information about the fets, I didn't know what was there, never saw the designs or never picked the things apart.
Also, thanks for the info on the H-bridge driver(is that Infinion as well). You are correct about the protection, there wouldn't be a chance of turning on the same side. But these controllers have a brake function, so they would have to turn on either the high or low pair of the bridge to do that(would they?). Could it then be a software issue where both sides switch on happens and it lets the smoke out?

[Santini]

Ok so I recieved today an email from Steve Rogers at CC indicating they will send me out a new one right away, so I'm very pleased about the response. Still mulling this over tho, what to do w my Logo 600.


Hi Joseph
We apologize for the mishap - we will get a new one out to you.
I am going to set up an AWR where we send out the replacement & when it arrives you then send the one you have back.

[extrapilot]

P

For braking, at least for the designs I have seen, the approach is to run all 3 phases to either high or low. So in that model, you just set each of the 3 half-bridge controllers to the same config (i.e. high=0ff, low=on), and that’s it… There remains the interlock (cross conduction) prevention logic regardless.

As regards bridge drivers and FETs etc, most engineers will adjust parts as supply changes, and tech evolves. I think you will find several different OEMs participating over the past couple years on the CC ESCs (i.e. IRF, Intersil, On Semi, Infineon, etc). I don’t study their work- I just recall Patrick posting some tidbits recently on some of his designs.

Cheers
R

[gerardobrandao]

Hello guys...


Going to give mine input...
I have a long journey in Rc Hobby ,specially in Rc Boats, wich is by far the hardest concerning speed controller´s and motors.
I have seen a lot of boaters having huge motors=huge amp draws, normally, with chinese speed controller...They were almost condemned to insucess!
I have always had less boats then my other friends, but the best equipment i could afford, i got it inside!
NEU motors,Lehner, SCHULZE and YGE speed controllers!
I never had a problem with them...and i´m talking about 200, 250 AMP continuous amp draw....
Now ,that i´m in the heli scene, at 4 months ago, i have a scorpion 5025 motor, and a YGE 160HV speed controller......None issue, and everything works right..
YGE is the same quality as Kontronik, the employers and the engineers are most of them ex-kontronik, and 2/3rd of the price....I just say go with it....
I never had a problem of connecting the bullets and seing flames out of it....
I won´t imagine driving mine heli, with the lack of trust of mine speed controller catching fire...this is of course mine humble opinion...
The difference between good and bad speed controllers is ,IMHO, Pro Active safety...if we can call it that...
Schulze speed controllers, have a safety starting routine wich analyzes all working factors..inductance, amp draw, even the capacitors..if the motor isn´t good..it won´t work..if one of the 10 caps are broken ..it won´t work...
the same applies to YGE...
When talking about chinese crap...what you put is what you have...safety margin= 0 !

[WBFAir]

Originally Posted by nightflyr

Hey watdazit,
Might consider these for a solution.... no need to add any wire

Hello Nightflyer, I was wondering if you could provide a link for these long packs.

I was looking for them on the HK site for 6S 5000 and all I could find were 25C ones.

Are these them?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10480

Thanks

[WBFAir]

Originally Posted by extrapilot

What would be very helpful in identifying the cause would be to identify the ‘mode’ that is affected. Example, if the fires are always at init, that says a lot about where the failure is happening. If it is always in flight at high power, that says something else. Is there any data on this? And, does this happen with no motor connections?

Just to mention it extrapilot, this is precisely why I'm trying to get this going: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...43#post2959443 as even what your describing here would be a part of this and while I know MrMel has chimed in with some very valid points, it's at least something we could try.

[Blackbird1]

I have ice75 in my trex500 with 500+ flights , i have ice80HV in my SDX50 8s with 300+ flights , i have ice80HV in my sdx90 streched 12s with 54 flights ,so no problem with cc, but my friends 110HV - ice 75 - ice100 -ice120HV all in flames the 3 first in 3-5 flights and the ice120 just when he connects the lipos,I am very confused about cc....

George.

[Helicrazy2]

I do not know That I would trust castle now with all of the fires ,To Much money to lose and can not take a chance!

[Santini]

OK, so I found a solution, happily.

Santini Logo Build Final and Maiden 6 5 11 B (5 min 39 sec)

[Ah Clem]

Santini,

That white tail boom looks great!

Back in the 1980's, you could buy heat shrink for tail booms to to that-that is the first time I have seen it since then and, as I said above, it looks great!

[Helicrazy2]

Fire down below !

[Santini]

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

Santini,

That white tail boom looks great!

Back in the 1980's, you could buy heat shrink for tail booms to to that-that is the first time I have seen it since then and, as I said above, it looks great!

Thanks! Here you go, Clem. Monokote trim sheets (adhesive back), avail at many hobby shops, in pieces 5" x 36". Peel and stick. Great stuff and ideal if you plan to video. Here it is in yellow on Vadimr's Logo600 3D.

Vadim Takeoff AVS 4 30 11 (1 min 17 sec)

[PC12DRVR]

My 120HV went up in flames yesterday 20 seconds into a flight, I autoed it back in and a friend kicked the ecs off the bird and saved the frames. I hope they fix it, but I do not want another 120HV.

[BakedMopar]

I too come from the FE world and have followed along on some of your builds. I must say that I had a Schulze 40-160 go up in flames on plug in. There is also a bunch of the higher amp misled that has been biting the dust lately (Randy and Tyler has had a few of those misfortunes).

Let's face it every company has problems, some more than others. Yes I have had a few failures from CC most of them my fault. I didn't have to pay a dime to have them replaced (they even covered shipping). I cant say the same for my Schulze

Originally Posted by gerardobrandao

Hello guys...


Going to give mine input...
I have a long journey in Rc Hobby ,specially in Rc Boats, wich is by far the hardest concerning speed controller´s and motors.
I have seen a lot of boaters having huge motors=huge amp draws, normally, with chinese speed controller...They were almost condemned to insucess!
I have always had less boats then my other friends, but the best equipment i could afford, i got it inside!
NEU motors,Lehner, SCHULZE and YGE speed controllers!
I never had a problem with them...and i´m talking about 200, 250 AMP continuous amp draw....
Now ,that i´m in the heli scene, at 4 months ago, i have a scorpion 5025 motor, and a YGE 160HV speed controller......None issue, and everything works right..
YGE is the same quality as Kontronik, the employers and the engineers are most of them ex-kontronik, and 2/3rd of the price....I just say go with it....
I never had a problem of connecting the bullets and seing flames out of it....
I won´t imagine driving mine heli, with the lack of trust of mine speed controller catching fire...this is of course mine humble opinion...
The difference between good and bad speed controllers is ,IMHO, Pro Active safety...if we can call it that...
Schulze speed controllers, have a safety starting routine wich analyzes all working factors..inductance, amp draw, even the capacitors..if the motor isn´t good..it won´t work..if one of the 10 caps are broken ..it won´t work...
the same applies to YGE...
When talking about chinese crap...what you put is what you have...safety margin= 0 !