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11-24-2013, 09:21 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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ChargerCase v2.0 (Warning: pic's!)
ChargerCase v2.0
Started this hobby in spring this year, and bought a "shiny, big 4-channel charger" from HobbyKing, 4x50W didn't take me far especially when two of the channels broke. So during summer I made a chargercase with iCharger 3010B and Turnigt 200W wich worked very well. A lot o fun meters can be found on ebay... Power is supplied by three HP-serverpovers delivering 47A each, so the power is about ~1700 watts when charging power is approx. ~1200W with this setup. This setup worked great (and still works) but then my fleet was added with Logo 800 Xxtreme with 14S setup so a new charger-case had to be done. At first the idea was to re-build the v1.0 but I quickly realised that the amount of power needed would not fit in this case. So the staring point was to use a iCharger 4010 DUO and "enough" with power. Powersupplieas was gound on ebay, 4 units delivered to home for under 80 euros, that was a bargain. One was DOA but after some emails I had a new unit in a week, good service there. PSU's are DELL 7000814 models, so the power supplied is now 4 x 12V x 57A totaling to ~2700W. should be enough... Case and startingpoint, 12mm MDF-sheet: Testfitting the PSU's to case, not much of extra space there, had hoped for more... DELL PSU's fans are not controlled the same way case v1.0's HP-PSU's are, so a new solution was needed, I solved this bu adding temperature-controlled switches to rear (hotter) of PSU's. The noise without this is frankly infernal. Since I'm allergic to cables and messy cases I came to conclusion I'd nake the balansing boards my self. A long tought was put in the size of these, I really don't see myself having bigger than 14S setups for a while so I made these to use 2S to 7S setups, for four batteries per channel. No need to use more for one channel ,I'm mostly charging in 4C anyway on the field. (The back-side is soldered solid, no bare copper visible) How to move air for coooling inside the case is done by using the PSU-fans for intake and three 60 mm fans for output just to make sure the warm air gets out. Fans are as said 60mm, the case v1.0 has two 80mm but this case is lower on the side so 80mm wouldn't fit. Noise level is acceptable, making this actually quite pleasent to use even in home. . THinking about the layout to case was hard, all in favor of simplicity and usability with no wires visible to mess the usage and to keep everything clean. Not really possible to get rid of wires more than this: Here's a picture of testfitting the EC5 and EC3-connectors. In left lower corner one can see the raspberry pi-project, doing the plotting of graphics. Unfortunately 4010 DUO is delivering modbus and not serial ascii so I have some software-work to do there, but it's ongoing Plenty of space to lay the batterys for charging: Maiden-charge, a bit fuzzy pic, two batterys for 800, 7S 5000mAh each and for my T-Rex 500 three 6S 2600mAh batterys, all charged with 4C, some load-testing: Power is needed: And it's delivered.... Goal was to keep the case under 15 kilo's, completed it got to 14.8kg All I need for next summer is a field-generator able to give something like 2.5kW while being small, portable and not too expensive... Last edited by TeroS; 11-24-2013 at 09:38 AM.. Reason: Added warning of pics to subject |
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11-24-2013, 12:04 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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ChargerCase v2.0 (Warning: pic's!)
Very well thought out design and execution. Nice!
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11-24-2013, 01:21 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Wow! Outstanding work! That is awesome.
Can you say anything more about the temperature-controlled switches? Do they just turn the fans on/off, or do they increase/reduce the fan's speed? I just installed a potentiometer on the fan of my new supply, to slow it down, while still allowing adjustments. It was quite noisy before. But if I could make it run slowly, and only speed up when the supply started to get warm, that would be nice. I thought the light in the first picture was a nice touch, good idea. And making your own parallel balance boards is pretty impressive. There are 3000W-peak inverter generators that might be able to give you what you want. Honda's EU3000i, for instance. Champion makes a 3100W inverter that's the same price as Honda's 2000W, ~$1,000. I think Slyster has a 3600W inverter Boliy, which he likes.
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Gaui X5, iKon, Edge 100, CC BEC Pro. Tarot 450 Pro FBL, Mini VBar, Ice Lite 50. BL mCP X, Nano QX, FrSky Taranis, iCharger 308Duo. |
11-24-2013, 02:04 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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I have one more light of that sort, I'm sure it'll be in this bigger case soon.
Temperaturecontrolled switches ar just that, switches, turn-over temp is 50 celsius, might be a bit hight but we'll see. They don't turn off quicly and that's just good, ensures that there's no pumping of the fan noise. One could control the fans with temperature to resistance-schematics, I just didnät want to start designiing and building one. Simple PWM to fans don't work straight up, I'd have to fool the board with faje fan signal. Too much hassle in my opinion. Yes, there are Hondas over here too, not just in that price-range, You have to double that price over here. There's one very popular (with rc-people that is) 2600W model I'm looking at, in USD something like 800 so not that bad either. |
11-24-2013, 02:26 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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If the supply shuts down if the fan stops, that would make things tougher. I have no idea how you'd go about faking a fan RPM signal
But I suppose you could put a resistor inline with the fan's V+ wire, to slow it down all the time. Have the temperature-controlled switch in parallel with the V+ line. With things cold, and the switch open, the second circuit is open, and the fan is powered just through the line with a resistor, lowering its speed. When it warms up, and the switch closes, the second circuit closes in parallel with the first, and you can effectively bypass the first resistor. You'd go to full fan speed, or you could use a second resistor on the switched circuit to just increase the fan speed to what you wanted. This is just crude thinking-out-loud on my part, based on non-EE types of solutions, of course. I'm sure your approach is better than this
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Gaui X5, iKon, Edge 100, CC BEC Pro. Tarot 450 Pro FBL, Mini VBar, Ice Lite 50. BL mCP X, Nano QX, FrSky Taranis, iCharger 308Duo. |
11-24-2013, 02:44 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Just to make sure, the switches alter the steer-signal so when things heat up fans go to full speed. Until that fans work silently, they're not completely stopped.
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11-24-2013, 02:58 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Nice case! I am about to build a second case myself based on the smaller 308DUO and a TDK-Lamda 1500W PSU. Still looking for an actual case but it probably will be more like yours (briefcase type) as opposed to based on a toolbox which I used in my previous case build.
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