Wires go WHERE?

[jbeech]

Nope, if you align the arm vertically, the linkage is correct as supplied (it doesn't look correct, but it is). Next, if he connects that arm through the pushrod to the servo (with the arm correctly positioned at 90-degrees to the pushrod when the stick is at mid travel) then the front of the swashplate is where it needs to be. If he then builds the other two linkages so that the swashplate sits level (with both of those servo arms also being perfectly at 90-degrees to the pushrods), then he's done!

All that's left is to adjust the ATV so the swashplate doesn't bind at max or minimum pitch. This is a 5 minute job. He's missing something fundamental. When it clicks, he'll feel terrible about how he missed it. Me? I have confidence in him because he's obviously got what it takes to make it with helicopters since a lesser man would have quit in frustration by now.

My advice, re-read the posts I mentioned. Maybe consult with a decent single malt.

[BobSalvo]

OK Let's start out with what I know for sure.
I am at work so bare with.... going out of memory.
I know this is getting repetitive but I can't change what is for sure. Meaning
THE PROBLEM the swashplate is not meeting the elevator arm linkage
I know for fact the servos are all 90, I know they don't look it in pics but let me asure you they are.
The linkages are all the recommended lengths . (They were checked I don't know how many times)
I know I sent a pic of the difference in the ball link and the swashplate.

I know you can see in pics that the swash is level and sits perfectly on top of the leveler. And if thats the case why is the arm linkage so tall. I don't mean couple clicks but good 5-7mm
It is so tall that you couldn't fix it with a little adjustment of servos or linkages.
By the way my arm linkage measures from pin at elbow to bottom of arm linkage to the top of elevator arm linkage measures 51.4mm.
Could it be my throttle adjust which now is bottom stick 48% and top stick is I think 60%.
Would that change my situation
Like John said I guess it isn't clicking yet...

[BobSalvo]

I was just checking out the Bob video on throttle setup
He says that the throttle fully open is all the way down is that correct?
And all the way up is closed
I have been thinking the other way around could that be true and part of my problem.
Any INPUT???

[jbeech]

Bob,

Throttle - up/down doesn't matter. The way the carburetor on our engines work is fully clockwise closes the throttle barrel - so that will be low throttle. I've seen people build the throttle linkage differently than what we suggest so up/down doesn't always make sense. Anyway, if in doubt, just remove the air filter and peer down through the snorkel hole at the intake (this is a great advantage of a P6 because with other models there's no eyeballing it).

Also, look closely at the side of the carburetor barrel and you'll see a mark. Examine the carburetor body and at half-throttle you'll see there's a mark on it as well. Align the two and this is the hover point (or darned close). Attach your throttle servo arm so it is level and horizontal and then ensuring your throttle servo arm is also perpendicular, build your linkage.

By the way, the pushrod length figure can vary a little bit depending on how high (or low) you install the engine, what brand of engine, etc. so don't get hung up on the exact dimensions of the pushrods because they're plenty close enough to allow you to account for the variation in servos and engine placement - yes, it's on you to fine tune them to suit. Sorry if this seems less than exact but we couldn't possibly account for all the variations available (and variations, which will become available). Ditto swashplate linkages. Just build them as I explained above.

Finally, if you feel there's something wrong with the elevator linkage, send it to me an I will be happy to examine it for you (though I cannot for the life of me imagine anything wrong with it).

[Garland]

Hey Bob let me know when is good for you and we can talk again. Can you take a short vid of whats going on with your heli?
I, myself, will take a short vid of my P50 swash setup and I can also go into the throttle setup also. Or why dont we do this. You tell me what ya need to see and I'll try to show you on video. I dont have a DX6 radio but I think we can work around that

[BobSalvo]

OK I got the new part of elevator arm linkage and everything fell into place. Sometime soon I will give pete a call setup a date for a checkup not much left to do except check pitch curve and radio settings. Still have to program gyro. little things.
I want to thank everyone for your help.
I mean it
Its great to rely on some people to offer your help
Thanks

[BobSalvo]

Hey guys should I be worried about calibrating my joysticks in the monitor especially since all my settings are set...does it matter?

[Garland]

Hey Bob most radios have a spring adjustment on the sticks. Im not sure what ya mean by monitor. zjust set it to you preference I would think

[jbeech]

Bob it takes 10 minutes to start all over.

THE critical thing is for the arms to make perfect 90-degree angles at mid-stick.

After that, everything else is easy enough to check, e.g. linkage length to the swashplate and adjust as necessary. Hmmm, I see I exaggerated. Make it 5 minutes, tops!

[flyingquisinart]

The monitor is more for just understanding which servo is on what stick, whether it's reversed or not, etc..so it's useful early in the set up, say when you are first connecting servos to your receiver. After that, it's getting everything centered, washout arms, etc level, servo arms at 90 degrees, and then setting ATV's and end points to give max throw without binding. Do you have everything at center? I set everything so at zero pitch (test at idle up /stunt to where pitch range is max neg at bottom stick, and max positive at top stick) so that at exactly mid stick, you have level arms, zero degrees pitch on both blades, and a level swash. Then you should have equal thow at max pitch to around 10-11.5 degrees measured blade angle, and same for max negative pitch. With this setup, in idle up, you hover at say approx 6 degrees pitch, which winds up being about 2/3rds up the throttle stick. I then set my normal pitch (non idle up) to about negative 3-4 degrees at bottom stick by simply changing the pitch curve at the left or bottom value in the radio (in normal). This allows you to land fairly slowly, and allow you to get blades up to speed before take off.. i.e. your throttle curve should be fast enough (say 50%) by the time you get your blades to hover pitch to take off. The throttle curve may require some experimentation to get right, but I think JB's manual has some default recommendations. If you're engine is screaming, just turn it down on the first 3 points of your throttle curve (still talking normal mode) and spool up again.

[BobSalvo]

Just a quick update which I should of done quite a while ago. So busy. I went down to the field a few weeks ago met a few friends and a few of them helped with fine tuning the heli and after a couple bugs were worked out I think I'm ready for my first flight. I just want to practice my hovering before I go into the air or I will more than likely see the ground real quick.
John to you I really appreciate all your help, I was down in Port St. Lucie 2 weeks ago and wanted to see you but too long of trip. Sorry
And most of all to Jermo I bothered you so many times and I think my ears were ringing but I definitely appreciated your help and expertise THANK To all of you.

[jiminator]

Here's to hoping all goes well!!