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3D Forum Discussions for 3D applications using CSM Cyclock, Helitronix Multi-mixer, Spartan AP2000i, Firmtronix Digimix-3. |
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10-07-2007, 09:50 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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My flybarless TRex600
Hi freaks,
yesterday I had my first 3 succesful test flights with my flybarless TRex600. It felt quite different while flying, very twichy around the middle stick and sort of delayed too. I use Cyclock, 2 CSM 720 gyros and Fut. 9255 servos on swash. I sure have to adjust the params but don't know exactly how. Maybe somebody can help me. Thanks and regards Laszlo |
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10-07-2007, 10:30 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Team Taco CEO
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Can you post your 720 settings and how you're mounting the 2 gyros?
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Kevin Don't Taco My Pack, Bro! , Why crash when you can POUND it! |
10-07-2007, 10:43 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Beautiful Laszlo!
I wish I could help, but not many people have done it yet. So I'm anxiously awaiting other responses. I would really like to do it also. Did you need anything special besides the cyclock and 2 gyros? Can any 2 gyros be used, or are they part of the cyclock? Lots of questions here. |
10-07-2007, 10:49 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Thread Starter
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My flybarless TRex600
Hi Kevin,
my 720 settings are (see pics): I took those params originally from trextuning.com I mounted the gyros as so. Thanks for helping! |
10-07-2007, 11:32 AM | #5 (permalink) |
Team Taco CEO
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I don't have my computer cable with me at the moment to get my settings...
Here's how I mount mine. I've notice that it's not as twitchy if I use leading edge control than if it were trailing edge control. Also, when I added the copper plates, it eliminated a LOT of noise I've been getting from my gears/bearings/motor. (I also ground the plate to the 0V of my gyro). I also switch from using servo tape and use the thick spongy tape that comes with the gyro. This help out a lot also.
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Kevin Don't Taco My Pack, Bro! , Why crash when you can POUND it! |
10-07-2007, 11:42 AM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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Kevin Don't Taco My Pack, Bro! , Why crash when you can POUND it! Last edited by fireup; 10-07-2007 at 11:12 PM.. |
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10-07-2007, 11:48 AM | #7 (permalink) |
Thread Starter
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My flybarless TRex600
Thank you Kevin! I will try using leading edge control and using the spongy tape first to tame it. Also I will mount a copper plate. Anyways I'd be happy if you could post your settings some time.
Thanks Skeppley! As far as I know with the Cyclock1 you need 2 CSM 720 gyros. I don't know whether other gyros would work. Of course you have to strip the head, but else it's all standard Align parts you can use (swashplate driver). Regards Laszlo |
10-08-2007, 09:52 AM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Thanks for the post! Also, thank in advance to FireUp for sharing your programming setup!!
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10-08-2007, 10:06 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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Thanks cbdane!
No problem, I will take some more detailled pictures of the head this evening. I was taking some basics and ideas and the software setup from www.trextuning.com/csm-flybarless.php. There's another one: www.p0.se/trex600 Else I was 'googleing' for other flybarless infos on different sites. Over at RR they just opened a new forum especially for flybarless systems. Maybe you can find some more infos there. Until later Laszlo |
10-08-2007, 11:41 AM | #10 (permalink) |
Thread Starter
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For cbdane and all others who are interessed, here some more detailled pictures of my TRex600 head. Sorry for the bad quality of the pics, it's a cheap digicam.
What I don't like, is the fact, that the blade screws are now upside down. I flipped the blade holders as Kevin suggested. Either I have to find longer screws to mount them correctly or maybe Kevin can send me the beautiful head and blade holders he made himself. LOL The other fact is the linkage between the swash and blade holders is not exactly vertical. I'm thinking of delta effect. Does it matter? If you need more infos let me know. Laszlo |
10-08-2007, 07:54 PM | #11 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
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Have laser, will travel. |
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10-09-2007, 03:38 AM | #12 (permalink) | ||
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Yes, you can adjust the phase angle in Cyclock. |
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10-09-2007, 10:14 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2006
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The way these heli's fly, I suspect that gravity has little to do with holding the screws in!
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Have laser, will travel. |
11-20-2007, 02:41 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Whats the cost of a CSM flybarless setup?
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Lonely trex 450se v1 and a bunch of planes. |
01-20-2008, 04:53 AM | #16 (permalink) |
Join Date: Jan 2007
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csm system
G-day all just wondering will this system work on 600N?
Or are vibrations an issue? Cheers Shane |
01-25-2008, 01:52 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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I think the V-Stabi is a great system for someone going flybarless on a new heli, however the CSM system is an excellent option for those who already have a good flying heli and want to go flybarless, because we usually already have a good tail gyro.
I just installed the CSM system on my 10s T-Rex 600 and I can't say enough good things about it! It has awesome collective and cyclic response and incredible stability at the same time. And the heli has a completely different sound to it. It's much, much quieter even in hard 3D maneuvers. My flying buddy was there and saw mine on the initial flights and ended up buying the same setup for his T-Rex just a couple days later. He's just as happy and amazed with his. We both got our CSM parts from www.amainhobbies.com. The whole system including the two SL720 gyros, Cyclock and USB programming cable is about $500. I'm sure it would work great on a nitro bird as well. Take a look at the 2007 3D Masters and you'll see a couple of the top pilots, Curtis Youngblood and Duncan Osbourn, were flying flybarless nitro heli's. I say definitely the way of the future... and the present for me... I'm not going back!
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aka: Upside_dan Frenzy 50 with SK-360, AR7100R, BLS451, Edge FBL Blades, Spartan DS 760.Frenzy 90 with SK-720, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-PS. ELY-Q Vision 90 with BeastX, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-R, Radix FBL. JR X9303 |
06-10-2008, 12:43 PM | #18 (permalink) |
Join Date: May 2008
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Hi.
I like your flybarless. Im starting to think of this for my V2. Already seen one at a Fun Fly, but didn't manage to talk to the guy. I have some questions for your design. 1. Why did you have to flip the blades? From the Linkage point of view, the thing is a bit angled with the same ammount in any case. Was it for the pitch? Beacause it's not passing through the mixer arm? 2. The Washout Base a) Why is it upside down? b) Why is it fixed to the Main Shaft? c) Uhm..WHY IS IT THERE?? Mainly you have linkage straight to the blades from the swash. The rest is useless...or is it? Looking forward for your reply Thanks. |
06-10-2008, 10:17 PM | #19 (permalink) | |
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You can get spacers (as seen in the mikado vbar section at rcflightstore.com) that sapces your balls out to be in line with the mainshaft. You need to use the balls that can have a screw go through them and use a long screw though. That would make your head in phase and likely perform better. You can see this in application here on the aftermarket head. The spacing is the same with the stock metal and stock plastic grips. (I would not recommend the stock plastic grips due to flex). |
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06-11-2008, 03:37 AM | #20 (permalink) | |
Thread Starter
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I flipped the blade holders due to the delta effect. Better response, less pitching up in FF. As Dynamic explains, the linkages from swash to blade holder should be exactly parallel to the main shaft. The Mikado upgrade set is a possible solution, but I don't like the plastic stuff. I recently bought the new Align blade holders, where I can mount longer Vario balls to eliminate the delta effect. The washout base has to be fixed to the main shaft to function as a swash driver. Why is is upside down? Don't know, just adapted it from another setup I saw without thinking about it. Anyways, I'm going to change this to the mikado swash driver. Last but not least, I swapped the Cyclock and the CSM gyros for an AC-3X system. Regards Laszlo |
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