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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 11-15-2008, 11:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 600esp new assembly head issue

Another question. When I went to level everything in the head, I found the linkages from swash plate up where way out of sink when using the 600 swash leveler, the one that looks like a "c". When getting everything lever with swash at mid stick, I now can not get more than +9 degrees at full positve stick, with -13 at full negative, and 0 at mid stick. Can anyone tell me why this would be?
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Old 11-16-2008, 12:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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IMHO a swash leveller is a waste of time - you can get very close with eyeballing the swash and for fine tuning you need to do this in flight and not on the bench. You should mid-stick, zero subtrims and trims and set linear pitch curves. Square off the linkages as per Align pics (see below) and then adjust swash position via bellcrank to swash linkages so that the washout arms are square wth the flybar square - this gives you mid swash travel. Then you adjust your mixer arms to be square at same position and finally adjust short linkages to give you zero pitch - as long as your pitch curve is linear this will always give you linear swash travel.

PS On a 9303/DSX9 make sure your trim levers are disabled
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Last edited by Mercuriell; 11-17-2008 at 03:28 AM.. Reason: typos
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mercuriell View Post
IMHO a swash leveller is a waste of time - you can get very close with eyeballing the wswash and for fine tuning you need to do this in flight and not on the bench. You should mid-stick, zero subtrims and trima and linear pitch curves. Square off the linkages as per Align pics (see below) and then adjust swash position via bellcrank to swash linkages so that the washout arms are square wth the flybar square - this gives you mid swash travel. Then you adjust your mixer arms to be square at same position and finally adjust short linkages to give you zero pitch - as long as your pitch curve is linear this will always give you linear swash travel.

PS On a 9303/DSX9 make sure your trim levers are disabled
All I am using the leveler for is that mid postion starting point. I am at mid stick on radio. Just wondering why I had to shorten linkages so much at washout to flybar control rods, then the linkages from the swash to the mixing arms. This shortening of the links is probably the cause of not having full range at full positive pitch at radio. Could the leverer for my stock Trex 600 be to thick for the 600esp?
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuriell View Post
IMHO a swash leveller is a waste of time - you can get very close with eyeballing the wswash and for fine tuning you need to do this in flight and not on the bench. You should mid-stick, zero subtrims and trima and linear pitch curves. Square off the linkages as per Align pics (see below) and then adjust swash position via bellcrank to swash linkages so that the washout arms are square wth the flybar square - this gives you mid swash travel. Then you adjust your mixer arms to be square at same position and finally adjust short linkages to give you zero pitch - as long as your pitch curve is linear this will always give you linear swash travel.

PS On a 9303/DSX9 make sure your trim levers are disabled
I respectfully disagree.

Your setup instructions are great and get you very close, but to get the heli to track straight as an arrow with both full positive and negative collective, you can't beat a swash leveling tool. You just can't eyeball it and get it 100% flat throughout the pitch range. With the tool there's no guessing, it's just right...

Bill
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I respectfully disagree.

Your setup instructions are great and get you very close, but to get the heli to track straight as an arrow with both full positive and negative collective, you can't beat a swash leveling tool. You just can't eyeball it and get it 100% flat throughout the pitch range. With the tool there's no guessing, it's just right...

Bill
Don't argue that the swash leveller gets it looking nice level Bill - my point though is that that doesn't always translate to in-flight performance and with the most anally set level swash throughout its travel you will usually still find a degree of end limit mixing (the swash actually needs to be offset for level hover) and that is why I feel that the fine tuning best done in flight (punch ups and downs and flips looking for roll) - each to their own !!
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Last edited by Mercuriell; 11-17-2008 at 03:26 AM.. Reason: typo
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I went about it eyeballing it, or as merc said. It doesn't have any tracking issues or drifting. hovers stable as a rock! Of course after I eyeballed it, I went about trimming endpoints and travel adjustments to get it level with a swash leveller. If you want, I'll post a pic of my swash plate at mid stick
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks,

I too, had to level by eye. When I got the mid point eye balled close, then I put the swash leveler that goes on top of swash on and leveled at high, and low ends. My leveler that goes under swash must be to thick for this 600esp.
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuriell View Post
Don't argue that the swash leveller gets it looking nice level Bill - my point though is that that doesn't always translate to in-flight performance and with the most anally set level swash throughout its travel you will usually still find a degree of end limit mixing (the swash actually needs to be offset for level hover) and that is why I feel that the fine tuning best done in flight (punch ups and downs and flips looking for roll) - each to their own !!
On the three helis I used the swash leveling tool on, I've never had to touch the end points once I set it up in the shop. Usually just a click or two of trim for hover and it was ready to rock...

Whatever works for people! It's all good!

Bill
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Where exactly should the washout base sit....is it dead center in the rotor pins? Mine is slightly lower than center. Whats the best way to adjust this?

Last edited by micron929rr; 11-23-2008 at 01:32 AM..
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