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RotorMoShun · 01-29-2011, 07:08 PM

I just put a Beastx 2.0 on a perfectly good Trex 500 (it flew great on a Align3g). I have the swash perfectly level as per the steps in the manuel. It hovered nice, but when I gave it strong collective to climb out, it wants to sway left, if I give it strong neg collective it wants to sway right. I am new to the BeastX, but very detail oriented. Anyone seen this or have any suggestions please?

Thanks in advance.

weaselbean · 01-29-2011, 08:48 PM

Hi,It sounds like your swashplate is not staying level when you move it up and down maybe check your airthron links and make sure they are the same length.also check setup menu G and see if you did not accidently bump one of your servos out of trim,then check parameter menu A it says in the book if on your climb outs if the heli is not climbing stright to trim it in this menu

seemore74 · 01-30-2011, 02:59 AM

+ 1 on those tips, it might seem like starting over again but take the head off, put your swash leveller on and pitch up/down & watch for levelness. Check for plastic ball linkage slop, you can do this by powering up, going mid stick (motor disconnected & blades straight out) then gently twisting both blades in opposite directions back & forth as if moving in + & - pitch. I discovered linkage ball slop on my heli this way & it infact caused my heli not to climb out or drop in a straight line.

ollie2893 · 01-30-2011, 04:41 AM

When you pitch pump on the bench, does the swash move in parallel? It does sound a wee bit like a slow servo, front-left I had thought. Strictly speaking, the MB should be able to cope even with out-of-step servos. Since it does not, it seems to me that you should crank up the swash gain (Pot #1). The old tail gyro mantra should apply to the swash too: crank it up until you start oscillating, then back off a touch.

Otherwise try Parameter A, as advised before. No need to redo Setup G.

RotorMoShun · 01-30-2011, 10:45 AM

Thanks for the tips, let me go through the head again and get back to you. I measured the aileron links this morning and they were exactly the same.

clicky · 01-30-2011, 02:28 PM

Hm. Is it possible that Parameter Menu A is exactly for what? There's a thread here where, I think, Labmaster explains that 100% levelled swash is not 100% correct and that one should make swash based on climbouts. So, using parameter menu A - one should correct swash so climbouts are straight. Only then microbeast will now exactly what to do...

Here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=267979

RotorMoShun · 01-30-2011, 07:57 PM

Thanks guys for all the help, I did exactly what you suggested and took my main blades off and spun her up on the bench. I could see that when about full power and collective was given, the swash tilted to the right quite hard. It took me a while to figure it out, but I created a new memory in my 9303 and now all is ok! WOW I am so impressed on the what the BeastX performs over the Align 3g. BTW, I compared the old memory settings (that I had computer copied) and the new memory created by hand and they look identical!?!.

ziper_it · 02-01-2011, 09:04 AM

Did you reset also the MB? Maybe parameter A was different from default.

ollie2893 · 02-01-2011, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorMoShun

I did exactly what you suggested and took my main blades off and spun her up on the bench. I could see that when about full power and collective was given, the swash tilted to the right quite hard.

Darned - did we really suggest this? When you do as you write, then the vibrations from the drive train resonate from the bench and are quite likely to disturb the MB sensors. It is the same effect that causes the occasional tip-over on take-off. The test may be inconclusive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorMoShun

It took me a while to figure it out, but I created a new memory in my 9303 and now all is ok! I compared the old memory settings and the new memory created by hand and they look identical!?!

All is well that ends well. I'd be looking out for the free mixes (in the old memory). Perhaps you previously had some pitch-aileron mixing? Can't think why.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorMoShun

I am so impressed [by] the [way] the BeastX performs over the Align 3g.

Yes, it is striking. I feel for jondabear. Still, the 3G forum is much more fun than this - SOOOOO many problems to discuss.

marcosp · 02-02-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ollie2893

Still, the 3G forum is much more fun than this - SOOOOO many problems to discuss.

Haha, made me laugh, isn't it funny why it's fun??

nwmtech · 02-03-2011, 09:42 AM

I've ran into two things that can cause a drift/roll on a punch out. What I found was that the ATV's absolutely HAD to be at 100 on Ail/Elev when you set up the 6* of cyclic pitch. I originally had my N5 set up flying perfecty and had the ATV's at 115. Decided to try a buddies BeastX Digital Pitch gauge and forgot to drop the ATV's back to 100 when I re-setup the 6* of cyclic pitch and for some reason it gave a HARD left roll on a punch out. Another thing that can cause this is too soft on the mounting tape. Due to where the MB sits on the N5 I can't put a strap on it. With the factory MB tape it will drift BAD when the head is loaded. Went to two layers of 3M 4010 tape and it punches out perfectly straight.

ollie2893 · 02-03-2011, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nwmtech

Another thing that can cause this is too soft on the mounting tape. With the factory MB tape it will drift BAD when the head is loaded. Went to two layers of 3M 4010 tape and it punches out perfectly straight.

There must be more to this story. My guess is that your cable harness leans over one side? And its the inertia of that harness pulling/pushing the MB sideways under pitch pumping? Overwhelming the mounting tape... Where else would the slant come from that makes the MB correct over aileron?

nwmtech · 02-03-2011, 11:00 AM

Its not the unit shifting that causes the drift. Its the low frequency vibrations from loading the head/motor that piss the sensors off. Its more prevalent on nitros than e helis.

ollie2893 · 02-03-2011, 12:49 PM

Oh, ok. But that means that you do not get a bias like the OP, right? You just get random twitches?

nwmtech · 02-03-2011, 01:01 PM

Kind-of. If you're tape is a bit too firm (this is all assuming mechanically the heli is ok) then you'll see twitching, and drifting on the cyclic/tail in a hover but generally it will still fly somewhat decent. It might feel a little "loose" on the cyclic and tail but it won't really have any horrendous interactions. If your tape is WAY too firm it will want to tip over on spool up and be very erratic in a hover. If the tape is too loose it will hover and sport fly just fine but then you can get some really bad drifting when you load the head and lots of bobbles on hard stops. For some reason though, which I have no logical explanation, when the foam is too firm it usually seems to roll to the left when you load the head. Again, I have no idea why, but it's creepishly consistent. This is why softer foam type pads really NEED to be strapped down.

I've tried a lot of different mounting options on TotalG, 3G, VBar, and BeastX and all seem to respond pretty similar. I always start with two layers of 3M Gray or 3M 4010 Clear (just started using the clear recently) on my helis, nitros included. If it's a smaller independant sensor unit like the 3G or fullsize VBar then I'll add a metal plate and one layer between the plate and the sensor in. All inclusive sensors like the MiniV, BeastX, TotalG, etc. always start with just two layers.

DannyvG · 02-04-2011, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nwmtech

I've ran into two things that can cause a drift/roll on a punch out. What I found was that the ATV's absolutely HAD to be at 100 on Ail/Elev when you set up the 6* of cyclic pitch. I originally had my N5 set up flying perfecty and had the ATV's at 115. Decided to try a buddies BeastX Digital Pitch gauge and forgot to drop the ATV's back to 100 when I re-setup the 6* of cyclic pitch and for some reason it gave a HARD left roll on a punch out. Another thing that can cause this is too soft on the mounting tape. Due to where the MB sits on the N5 I can't put a strap on it. With the factory MB tape it will drift BAD when the head is loaded. Went to two layers of 3M 4010 tape and it punches out perfectly straight.

According to one of the MB developers it doesnt matter what your ATV settings are when doing the 6 degree cyclic adjustment
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...3&postcount=36
The MB doesnt care about your stick movement it only sees the signal coming in.

nwmtech · 02-04-2011, 02:05 AM

The more I think about it I realize now that I had swapped the mounting tape at the same time so you're probably right there. The MB should only be looking at the pulse width position of the servo and it would be irrelevant what your ATV's are. Good catch. In that case, the mounting tape being too soft caused my issues. Thanks for the correction!

01-29-2011, 07:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
RotorMoShun Registered Users Join Date: Jun 2008	Collective Climb Out I just put a Beastx 2.0 on a perfectly good Trex 500 (it flew great on a Align3g). I have the swash perfectly level as per the steps in the manuel. It hovered nice, but when I gave it strong collective to climb out, it wants to sway left, if I give it strong neg collective it wants to sway right. I am new to the BeastX, but very detail oriented. Anyone seen this or have any suggestions please? Thanks in advance.

01-29-2011, 08:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
weaselbean Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2010	Hi,It sounds like your swashplate is not staying level when you move it up and down maybe check your airthron links and make sure they are the same length.also check setup menu G and see if you did not accidently bump one of your servos out of trim,then check parameter menu A it says in the book if on your climb outs if the heli is not climbing stright to trim it in this menu __________________ "Quit crying about your airplane and fly it already!"

01-30-2011, 02:59 AM	#3 (permalink)
seemore74 Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2008	+ 1 on those tips, it might seem like starting over again but take the head off, put your swash leveller on and pitch up/down & watch for levelness. Check for plastic ball linkage slop, you can do this by powering up, going mid stick (motor disconnected & blades straight out) then gently twisting both blades in opposite directions back & forth as if moving in + & - pitch. I discovered linkage ball slop on my heli this way & it infact caused my heli not to climb out or drop in a straight line. __________________ Shape 9.0, Trex 700 DFC pro MKS Cyclics & Rudder Servos all round. Kontronik Pyro 750 Drives, Kontronik ESCs Futaba SBus Rx, Futaba 8FG transmission.

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01-30-2011, 04:41 AM	#4 (permalink)
ollie2893 Registered Users Join Date: May 2009	When you pitch pump on the bench, does the swash move in parallel? It does sound a wee bit like a slow servo, front-left I had thought. Strictly speaking, the MB should be able to cope even with out-of-step servos. Since it does not, it seems to me that you should crank up the swash gain (Pot #1). The old tail gyro mantra should apply to the swash too: crank it up until you start oscillating, then back off a touch. Otherwise try Parameter A, as advised before. No need to redo Setup G.

01-30-2011, 10:45 AM	#5 (permalink)
RotorMoShun Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jun 2008	Thanks for the tips, let me go through the head again and get back to you. I measured the aileron links this morning and they were exactly the same.

01-30-2011, 02:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
clicky Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2007	Hm. Is it possible that Parameter Menu A is exactly for what? There's a thread here where, I think, Labmaster explains that 100% levelled swash is not 100% correct and that one should make swash based on climbouts. So, using parameter menu A - one should correct swash so climbouts are straight. Only then microbeast will now exactly what to do... Here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=267979

01-30-2011, 07:57 PM	#7 (permalink)
RotorMoShun Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jun 2008	Thanks guys for all the help, I did exactly what you suggested and took my main blades off and spun her up on the bench. I could see that when about full power and collective was given, the swash tilted to the right quite hard. It took me a while to figure it out, but I created a new memory in my 9303 and now all is ok! WOW I am so impressed on the what the BeastX performs over the Align 3g. BTW, I compared the old memory settings (that I had computer copied) and the new memory created by hand and they look identical!?!.

02-01-2011, 09:04 AM	#8 (permalink)
ziper_it Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	Did you reset also the MB? Maybe parameter A was different from default.

02-03-2011, 09:42 AM	#11 (permalink)
nwmtech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2009	I've ran into two things that can cause a drift/roll on a punch out. What I found was that the ATV's absolutely HAD to be at 100 on Ail/Elev when you set up the 6* of cyclic pitch. I originally had my N5 set up flying perfecty and had the ATV's at 115. Decided to try a buddies BeastX Digital Pitch gauge and forgot to drop the ATV's back to 100 when I re-setup the 6* of cyclic pitch and for some reason it gave a HARD left roll on a punch out. Another thing that can cause this is too soft on the mounting tape. Due to where the MB sits on the N5 I can't put a strap on it. With the factory MB tape it will drift BAD when the head is loaded. Went to two layers of 3M 4010 tape and it punches out perfectly straight.

02-03-2011, 11:00 AM	#13 (permalink)
nwmtech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2009	Its not the unit shifting that causes the drift. Its the low frequency vibrations from loading the head/motor that piss the sensors off. Its more prevalent on nitros than e helis.

02-03-2011, 12:49 PM	#14 (permalink)
ollie2893 Registered Users Join Date: May 2009	Oh, ok. But that means that you do not get a bias like the OP, right? You just get random twitches?

02-03-2011, 01:01 PM	#15 (permalink)
nwmtech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2009	Kind-of. If you're tape is a bit too firm (this is all assuming mechanically the heli is ok) then you'll see twitching, and drifting on the cyclic/tail in a hover but generally it will still fly somewhat decent. It might feel a little "loose" on the cyclic and tail but it won't really have any horrendous interactions. If your tape is WAY too firm it will want to tip over on spool up and be very erratic in a hover. If the tape is too loose it will hover and sport fly just fine but then you can get some really bad drifting when you load the head and lots of bobbles on hard stops. For some reason though, which I have no logical explanation, when the foam is too firm it usually seems to roll to the left when you load the head. Again, I have no idea why, but it's creepishly consistent. This is why softer foam type pads really NEED to be strapped down. I've tried a lot of different mounting options on TotalG, 3G, VBar, and BeastX and all seem to respond pretty similar. I always start with two layers of 3M Gray or 3M 4010 Clear (just started using the clear recently) on my helis, nitros included. If it's a smaller independant sensor unit like the 3G or fullsize VBar then I'll add a metal plate and one layer between the plate and the sensor in. All inclusive sensors like the MiniV, BeastX, TotalG, etc. always start with just two layers.

02-04-2011, 02:05 AM	#17 (permalink)
nwmtech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2009	The more I think about it I realize now that I had swapped the mounting tape at the same time so you're probably right there. The MB should only be looking at the pulse width position of the servo and it would be irrelevant what your ATV's are. Good catch. In that case, the mounting tape being too soft caused my issues. Thanks for the correction!

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