START HERE |
|
Register | FAQ | PM | Events | Groups | Blogs | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Unregistered
|
Castle Creations ESC and Software Castle Creations ESC Software and Hardware Support |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-03-2015, 10:48 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Nov 2013
|
Autorotation setup
I just watch the Castle Quick Tip on autorotation setup. If I understand what was said you loose govenor in normal and have to take off in idle 1 instead. I have my Blade 600X set to 1800 in normal, 1900 in Idle 1 and 2100 in Idle 2. I would lose the 1800 normal, is that correct?
The reason I like taking off in normal is that I have my normal curve rise from 0 to 30 percent moving the throttle stick from bottom to about a quarter stick. That makes it easier to shut the motor down on landing by simply touching down and pulling the throttle stick all the way down instead of haveing to hold the heli steady while hitting the throttle hold switch. I hate to lose the use of normal, but I do a lot of autos with my nitro helis and would like to do the same with this, my first larger than 450 electric. |
Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement |
|
07-03-2015, 11:19 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2011
|
You don't loose the governor in N but you loose it in the full stick range. So if you have 5 point throttle curve you can set 0 - 30 -30 -30 -30 and have the 30% governed, however you can't go inverted. Its ok to take off and test the heli before going Idle Up.
Thats because throttle hold with active autorotation is at about 15%, so you can't arm the ESC without 0% in N. |
07-03-2015, 12:56 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
|
I don't use normal for anything but lifting into a hover and for slowing the head speed down so that it's not so quick on cyclic as I land. What's confusing me is that the guy shows dropping normal from straight line 30% to straight line 0% and leaving it that way and starting the motor for liftoff in Idle 1.
|
07-03-2015, 02:58 PM | #4 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2011
|
Just a safety measure, that way the ESC will arm in normal mode but won't spool up if he moves the throttle stick inadvertently. With my curve 0-30-30-30-30 after arming, TH is obligatory or you may have an unwanted spool up. Not a trouble anyway as safety asks for TH whenever the heli is grounded.
Last edited by Mateyhv; 07-03-2015 at 05:04 PM.. |
07-03-2015, 03:34 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jun 2009
|
They set normal to zero purely for setting up the auto rotation bailout.
Mateyhv is correct in what he said, that is the way I have set mine up. I use all modes Normal, IU1, IU2 and Hold. My normal is set up like 0 – 30 – 30 – 30 – 30
__________________
T-Rex 550E V2 Spartan VX1n, T-Rex 250 PRO DFC Spartan VX1n, Blade 130X. Futaba T8FG Super |
07-03-2015, 04:20 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
|
I have everything set up now. I have my normal curve back to 0-30-30-30-30. The only thing I see is that you have to go back to normal if you are doing autos for practice and you do one all the way to the ground. If you do one all the way down and forget and flip the hold off while it's still in idle 1 or 2 after landing, you will get a really fast spool up. That's no different than doing them with a nitro, except that an electric will spool up harder than a nitro. Thanks for the reassurance.
|
07-03-2015, 05:24 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2011
|
Quote:
I had a problem with normal curve being 0-0-0-0-0 as I used to take off and land at IU1 and fly on IU2 until the day I forgot to switch IU2 and heading to the landing site I hit N and the heli plumeted to the ground before I realized what was going wrong. Fortunately only the skid broke. Since then I have 0-30-30-30-30 in normal mode |
|
07-03-2015, 11:43 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
|
Another option is to assign throttle cut to another switch, that gives zero throttle signal and ESC will soft start when it's is switched off provided it's switched off AFTER hold is switched off. A bit of getting used to and a bit 'belt and suspenders' but there are a lot of pros to going this route: 3 usable head speeds with a full negative option on lowest HS.
Steve
__________________
Nano CPX || 130X || 230S II 450 3D converted to 450X || 360CFX || 480 Fusion II 550X || Oxy 5 MEG || ALeeS Rush 700 Evolution || Goblin 770 Sport 'My flight style, determines my crash style" |
07-06-2015, 11:19 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2012
|
Quote:
Even "the rest of us" (non-pros) use this method...no "Normal" (zero throttle point) anywhere, and three IU's; double safety with TH and TC, and esc fast-spools in the air if bailing out of an auto. Once on the ground, depress TC and soft-start is re-engaged if one wants to take off and fly again.
__________________
180CFX, Trex 550E (night), Goblin 570, Goblin 630C, DX8 |
|
07-07-2015, 01:50 AM | #10 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2011
|
Quote:
|
|
07-07-2015, 08:33 AM | #11 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
|
I managed to get in a couple of flights Sunday between rain showers with the 600X. The auto setup worked just fine on bailouts. If autoed to the ground I didn't have any trouble remembering to go back to normal before appling throttle, that's the way I've done it for years with my nitro helis. With my normal curve set to 0 on the first point soft start worked just fine. I won't be using normal for anything other than takeoffs and landings anyway, if for no other reason than my 600X has a small come and go head shake at 1880 that goes away as soon as I go to either idle1 (1900) or idle2 (2100). Have yet to figure that one out. Dampers are well lubed and it's not the blades. I traded blades with my friends 600X and it still had the same shake even though my friends 600 is perfectly smooth at 1800.
|
07-07-2015, 09:05 AM | #12 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Smyrna, GA
|
What you are describing sounds like too high cyclic gain on your FBL unit.
Higher rpm requires less gain, and the result can be hula dance shimmy on the head that comes in waves after any cyclic input
__________________
Tony Synergy 516, Gaui R-5 Speed (RIP), Cypher Vtol Jet (RIP), Spirit FBL, Hobbywing and Scorpion Tribunus ESC, Xnova motors. The girl in my DX9 tells them all what to do |
07-08-2015, 09:01 AM | #13 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
|
Higher rpm (1900 -2100) is when in smooths out, low rpm (1800) is where the the problem is, so I don't think it's cyclic gain related. It's more like the dampers are too stiff, so it may go away with more flights.
|
07-08-2015, 11:14 AM | #14 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Smyrna, GA
|
Ah, sorry I read your post backward. Yeah, let the head wear in a bit and see if it gets better.
__________________
Tony Synergy 516, Gaui R-5 Speed (RIP), Cypher Vtol Jet (RIP), Spirit FBL, Hobbywing and Scorpion Tribunus ESC, Xnova motors. The girl in my DX9 tells them all what to do |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|