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LockMD · 03-13-2008, 07:36 PM

Most of you probably already figured out to do as I did, use a allen or carbon rod to follow it through so you dont drop anything, yes?

Problem with that method, its hit or miss. Sometimes your follower will slip and you still loose stuff and have to do it the hard way anyhow.

So here is the tip: I have a spare flybar -- the threads on the flybar match the feather shaft. Use the flybar as a follower and you will NEVER slip off again!

Tande · 03-13-2008, 09:17 PM

"Excellent!!"

sokal · 03-14-2008, 12:47 AM

brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LockMD · 03-14-2008, 08:41 AM

I found it out by accident when I misplaced the carbon rod I was using I used the flybar and when I was finished it had srewed itself together. So I thought I would share the discovery

skigolfmike · 03-14-2008, 08:59 AM

Cool! Will use that technique when I take the head apart to try the fuel tubing head dampeners.

gatherman · 03-14-2008, 09:13 AM

Now that is a good tip...

GreenBar0n · 03-14-2008, 02:42 PM

Nice find LockMD! I'll try this next round.

I have found the flybar itself can be easily replaced by pushing out the old Flybar with the brand new one, those little one way washers between the seesaw and flybar cage are a pain, and pushing out the old with the new keeps everything lined up and makes flybar replacement a snap.

LockMD · 03-14-2008, 10:39 PM

OMG replacing the flybar was the worst I've done so far! Please wrap it in bubble paper so I never have to replace it again!

CoptrDoctr · 03-16-2008, 03:17 PM

Here's another simple quick solution should the worse case happen and you drop the tiny brass step washers.

1 Remove the 2 screws from one side of the flybar frame and remove the frame end.

2. Remove the old flybar, first brass step washer, head block with flybar seesaw, and the second brass step washer.

3. Insert the new flybar through the opposite flybar frame until about 2mm sticks through.

4. Place a brass step washer onto the flybar with the step side facing the frame then the head block with flybar seesaw.

5. Push the flybar through and an inch beyond the flybar seesaw.

6. Place the remaining brass step washer onto the flybar witht he step side out.

7. Finally thread the flybar through the flybar frame previously removed and secure with the 2 screws.

Note: These flybar frame screws were originally installed using thread lock at the factory and will be difficult to remove so be sure to use the correctly sized crosstip screwdriver on
both ends. Its also a good idea to use fresh threadlock.

Hope this can help someone else frusted by this appearingly simple but delicate task.

LockMD · 03-16-2008, 05:44 PM

Okay???? but this tip is about using a flybar to replace the FEATHER SHAFT.

good info too though.

CoptrDoctr · 03-17-2008, 06:07 PM

My bad! I saw the mention of the flybar and assumed you were having difficulty with its assembly rather than the feathering spindle shaft tip. Guess I need to read more gooder next time!

LockMD · 03-17-2008, 06:26 PM

LOL no biggie, no troubles here (knock on wood) its actually a 'tip' thread.

Yes, you need to leran to read gooderer

Kindling Maker · 03-18-2008, 05:36 AM

Well looks like I am goingto have to use both of these tips when I rebuild the head on mine. I just put it in on the side

LjArpin · 03-18-2008, 08:26 PM

I'll give it a try but the Flybar is usually the least of my worries.

LockMD · 03-18-2008, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LjArpin

I'll give it a try but the Flybar is usually the least of my worries.

ITS NOT THE FLYBAR

This is a tip to USE the flybar to replace the FEATHER SHAFT.

rudderman · 03-27-2008, 10:54 AM

I tried it this week and it worked sweet i was up flying in a sec .Excellent tip!!!!!!!!!!!!

LockMD · 03-27-2008, 10:58 AM

Thank you. Glad I stumbled on it from a stupid mistake LOL

Kindling Maker · 03-27-2008, 11:39 AM

I cut the old flybar and put a 90 degree bend in it and it make a great tool.

swooper · 04-04-2008, 02:56 PM

Dude, replace the flybar is super easy. all you gotta do is unscrew the allen ones on top of the seesaw, then the flybar is totally loose. Pull the flybar out, until the other end just gets inside the hole. Take the new flybar, put one end into that hole and all you do is push the new flybar in. It's gonna slide in clean, pushing the old one out. Do it nice and slow, you gonna get passed the washers,and next thing you know the old flybar will drop and the new one is in, that easy.

LockMD · 04-04-2008, 02:58 PM

Kindling is talking about using a flybar to remove the feather shaft.

03-13-2008, 07:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
LockMD Join Date: Oct 2007	30 second feather shaft replacement tip Most of you probably already figured out to do as I did, use a allen or carbon rod to follow it through so you dont drop anything, yes? Problem with that method, its hit or miss. Sometimes your follower will slip and you still loose stuff and have to do it the hard way anyhow. So here is the tip: I have a spare flybar -- the threads on the flybar match the feather shaft. Use the flybar as a follower and you will NEVER slip off again!

03-14-2008, 12:47 AM	#3 (permalink)
sokal Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2007	brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ B400 DS285/3400G/401/-8/40Aesc/sonicCNC/CNCframe TwinRexx: 6xHS-65/2xGY240/jfg500/TH2 CH-47D/UH-1H Crewchief/ Mechanic

03-14-2008, 02:42 PM	#7 (permalink)
GreenBar0n Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2008	Nice find LockMD! I'll try this next round. I have found the flybar itself can be easily replaced by pushing out the old Flybar with the brand new one, those little one way washers between the seesaw and flybar cage are a pain, and pushing out the old with the new keeps everything lined up and makes flybar replacement a snap. __________________ Blade 400: ds285's, 3400g, gy401 Blade MCX bnf- DX6i <~ Hoarder of crash kits.

03-18-2008, 08:26 PM	#14 (permalink)
LjArpin Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2008	I'll give it a try but the Flybar is usually the least of my worries. __________________ Trex600, Blade 400 2.4ghz Jrx9303 ::::::::::::::Real Heli:::::::::::::::: MH-53CE Power Plants Mech

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03-13-2008, 09:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
Tande Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2008	"Excellent!!"

03-14-2008, 08:41 AM	#4 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	I found it out by accident when I misplaced the carbon rod I was using I used the flybar and when I was finished it had srewed itself together. So I thought I would share the discovery

03-14-2008, 08:59 AM	#5 (permalink)
skigolfmike Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jan 2008	Cool! Will use that technique when I take the head apart to try the fuel tubing head dampeners.

03-14-2008, 09:13 AM	#6 (permalink)
gatherman Join Date: Feb 2008	Now that is a good tip...

03-14-2008, 10:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	OMG replacing the flybar was the worst I've done so far! Please wrap it in bubble paper so I never have to replace it again!

03-16-2008, 03:17 PM	#9 (permalink)
CoptrDoctr Join Date: Jan 2008	Here's another simple quick solution should the worse case happen and you drop the tiny brass step washers. 1 Remove the 2 screws from one side of the flybar frame and remove the frame end. 2. Remove the old flybar, first brass step washer, head block with flybar seesaw, and the second brass step washer. 3. Insert the new flybar through the opposite flybar frame until about 2mm sticks through. 4. Place a brass step washer onto the flybar with the step side facing the frame then the head block with flybar seesaw. 5. Push the flybar through and an inch beyond the flybar seesaw. 6. Place the remaining brass step washer onto the flybar witht he step side out. 7. Finally thread the flybar through the flybar frame previously removed and secure with the 2 screws. Note: These flybar frame screws were originally installed using thread lock at the factory and will be difficult to remove so be sure to use the correctly sized crosstip screwdriver on both ends. Its also a good idea to use fresh threadlock. Hope this can help someone else frusted by this appearingly simple but delicate task.

03-16-2008, 05:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	Okay???? but this tip is about using a flybar to replace the FEATHER SHAFT. good info too though.

03-17-2008, 06:07 PM	#11 (permalink)
CoptrDoctr Join Date: Jan 2008	My bad! I saw the mention of the flybar and assumed you were having difficulty with its assembly rather than the feathering spindle shaft tip. Guess I need to read more gooder next time!

03-17-2008, 06:26 PM	#12 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	LOL no biggie, no troubles here (knock on wood) its actually a 'tip' thread. Yes, you need to leran to read gooderer

03-18-2008, 05:36 AM	#13 (permalink)
Kindling Maker My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2007	Well looks like I am goingto have to use both of these tips when I rebuild the head on mine. I just put it in on the side

03-27-2008, 10:54 AM	#16 (permalink)
rudderman Join Date: Feb 2007	I tried it this week and it worked sweet i was up flying in a sec .Excellent tip!!!!!!!!!!!!

03-27-2008, 10:58 AM	#17 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	Thank you. Glad I stumbled on it from a stupid mistake LOL

03-27-2008, 11:39 AM	#18 (permalink)
Kindling Maker My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2007	I cut the old flybar and put a 90 degree bend in it and it make a great tool.

04-04-2008, 02:56 PM	#19 (permalink)
swooper Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2008	Dude, replace the flybar is super easy. all you gotta do is unscrew the allen ones on top of the seesaw, then the flybar is totally loose. Pull the flybar out, until the other end just gets inside the hole. Take the new flybar, put one end into that hole and all you do is push the new flybar in. It's gonna slide in clean, pushing the old one out. Do it nice and slow, you gonna get passed the washers,and next thing you know the old flybar will drop and the new one is in, that easy.

04-04-2008, 02:58 PM	#20 (permalink)
LockMD Thread Starter Join Date: Oct 2007	Kindling is talking about using a flybar to remove the feather shaft.

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