maiden at last!

[Stolla]

ok as some of you know ive been less than pleased with some of the idiosyncrasies of this machine, i still think mik should adress couple of things as i rate this build tight up there with some of the worst ive done, mainly because off all the glueing and fixing of niggly stuff, ok enough of that, how does it fly, quite nice in fact, i'm running mostly settings Dave posted on K machine and except for tailgain which seems too high at 2100 it flies very solid, as expected feels heavier than my other 700's no doubt but it brings a solidity to the affair. I back my own statement that this is a nice addition to the lighter fleet but certainly wont replace my rappy for instance. As for power i have pyro 850 rewinded in mine with 19 t pinion tp 4400 65 c gearing up for 14 s when my lipos arrive. So in the end i like it very much, its big its heavy, has presence and gives a very relaxed flight.

[OverTemp]

Thanks man.. Nice review.

[andersn]

did you run it on the stock motor now, or only on the pyro 850 rewind?

[kevinbj]

Also what esc are you using?

[OICU812]

It would be usefull to post exact things you feel that you found to be addressed overall Stolla.

Seems from many of your posts you are not pleased and make point of it but perhaps specifics would help. Saying rating in top worst builds you've done really?? I've built and flown many helis you own currently and honestly disagree by a large amount but am very interested to hear specifics to give you such dissapointment on the build. Aside from main shaft pin for front tr drive pulley most people haven't found much to be pain in the build really including first time builders.

It was truthfully one of the quickest and easiest builds I've ever done. In fact last build a compass 360 took twice as long to build as my second L700 lol.

[sgrim80]

I thought the build was one of the best and easiest builds I ever had so I'm interested to know as well what is so displeasing about this heli to you.

[futurase]

The only thing that has to be glued is it is suggested to put a tiny bit on the tabs of the radio tray to be sure it never moves in flight. This can be done after heli is totally built. Takes likes 30 seconds or less.

The rest of the heli is one of the easiest I ever built. Parts fit was superb.

Norman Ross Jr.

[Stolla]

Originally Posted by OICU812

It would be usefull to post exact things you feel that you found to be addressed overall Stolla.

Seems from many of your posts you are not pleased and make point of it but perhaps specifics would help. Saying rating in top worst builds you've done really?? I've built and flown many helis you own currently and honestly disagree by a large amount but am very interested to hear specifics to give you such dissapointment on the build. Aside from main shaft pin for front tr drive pulley most people haven't found much to be pain in the build really including first time builders.

Specifics ok here goes, please just my opinion! loose carbon stiffeners, none of my helis ever had this, a loose stiffener is NOT a stiffener, ttube bearing holders coming apart in the boom, none of my helis ever had that, warped gear, no was not the one way housing, as for design, difficulty routing wires, past all the little carbon puzzles, edges etc, the stupid locking pin for the tail pulley, fact that if you change brand of servos you have to remove whole gear and tailpulley assembly to get the servo mounting blocks out. All those rubber strips coming loose whole time, glue again. Fact you have to loosen 4 bolts to remove battery tray, compared to e720 where you pull a lever, out drops battery tray, all with canopy on, seriously compass frame design layout, much better imop, Raptor ergonomics much better imop, i'm non biased non brand loyal, straight forward experience i had with this machine i expected a lot more so was truly dissapointed in the quality layout and design of this kit, sure mikado quality was never the greatest dont kid yourself, comparing for instance my e 8 to logo 600 the jr is in a different class but logos have built up a reputation for being simple in design, easy to fix in a crash etc, now comparing the build of a 600 to this they went backwards by a country mile. However all logos fly well, i think in the end its a nice machine and expect to enjoy it. Its not my style to bash a mikado product on mikado forum but since you asked so nicely i'm happy to oblige, its up to mikado to decide whether they address some of these issues or not im not gonna have sleepless nights about it, neither will i change my opinion sorry,
Andersn, Kevin, i did not try the stock motor but my mate does, it seems to work well but you can hear the motor does work hard through some manouvres, we dont all have Kyles collective management! in comparison the 850 pyro is a beast off course and fits the machine really well, even at 1850 the torque increase of the handwind motor is very apparent. I use stock yge vbar combo, only one flight so far so good, very smooth startup, due to the too high tailgain i only briefly flew at 2100 but really enjoyed the moment

[futurase]

#1. Only thing needs a little glue to batt tray. I didn't use the edge guard. I didn't see a need.

#2. TT bearing holders I glued in place like EVERY TT heli I ever built. NOTHING WHAT SO EVER different about the design of the TT system on this machine. Don't see your difficulty.

#3. Routing wires. This subjective. I found it very easy. I have found a Goblin 700 very hard I built for a friend. To each his own.

#4. My gear is a tiny and I say tiny bit out of round. There is NO WAY to machine a herringbone gear. I assume you know this. The very nature of HB gear is it will track true. If it is out very bad, ask for a new one. I'm sure it will be provided. If mine was out much I would.

#5. Batt Tray. I agree. They need a quick change method. No doubt about it.

#6. The Raptor is a OLD, OLD, OLD nitro design where there is a tray up front and bell cranks. I wouldn't call it a better ergonomic design. This a Mikado forum. I doubt you get any supporters on that. Can Raptor 3D well as I sure someone will argue. uh... YEAH! A brick flys well with Maxwell on the sticks.

#7. How does changing brands of servos require taking gears out??? I put my servos in last thing. You lost me here.

This all my opinions. I'm entitled to them as well.

Norman Ross Jr.

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Stolla

Specifics ok here goes, please just my opinion! loose carbon stiffeners, none of my helis ever had this, a loose stiffener is NOT a stiffener, ttube bearing holders coming apart in the boom, none of my helis ever had that, warped gear, no was not the one way housing, as for design, difficulty routing wires, past all the little carbon puzzles, edges etc, the stupid locking pin for the tail pulley, fact that if you change brand of servos you have to remove whole gear and tailpulley assembly to get the servo mounting blocks out. All those rubber strips coming loose whole time, glue again. Fact you have to loosen 4 bolts to remove battery tray, compared to e720 where you pull a lever, out drops battery tray, all with canopy on, seriously compass frame design layout, much better imop, Raptor ergonomics much better imop, i'm non biased non brand loyal, straight forward experience i had with this machine i expected a lot more so was truly dissapointed in the quality layout and design of this kit, sure mikado quality was never the greatest dont kid yourself, comparing for instance my e 8 to logo 600 the jr is in a different class but logos have built up a reputation for being simple in design, easy to fix in a crash etc, now comparing the build of a 600 to this they went backwards by a country mile. However all logos fly well, i think in the end its a nice machine and expect to enjoy it. Its not my style to bash a mikado product on mikado forum but since you asked so nicely i'm happy to oblige, its up to mikado to decide whether they address some of these issues or not im not gonna have sleepless nights about it, neither will i change my opinion sorry,
Andersn, Kevin, i did not try the stock motor but my mate does, it seems to work well but you can hear the motor does work hard through some manouvres, we dont all have Kyles collective management! in comparison the 850 pyro is a beast off course and fits the machine really well, even at 1850 the torque increase of the handwind motor is very apparent. I use stock yge vbar combo, only one flight so far so good, very smooth startup, due to the too high tailgain i only briefly flew at 2100 but really enjoyed the moment

Ok well I'll make some clarifications for you to make it easier to move forward. I don't take anything you said as bashing really, but based on some of your comments I certainly think for yourself and future builders some clarifications are needed to understand this model and build easier for some that may be mis understanding the manual or overall build.

Batt tray, why are you loosing or taking out bolts? I simply leave the straps on and put the lipos on the side, takes 30-45 seconds to change batteries, the bolts stay in there is no need to do it that way and not sure why anyone would do that unless they like to turn wrenches? HOWEVER a quick change idea has been submitted indeed so no wory there we are not totally disagreeing, but please stop taking out wrench easier to leave it on. If a video is needed please let me know.

Stiffening plate on back, ok I get that, it only took two small dabs of epoxy underneath and done once, so its not a big deal but I DID mention this to Mikado and I'm certain those small slots will be made in future to simply file abit to fit in rather then loose.

Servo removal? This one is confusing it is very simple, perhaps confusing it with another model not sure but there is no need to take a whole bunch apart of anything here??

TT bearings coming off huh? Like Mr. Ross states a simple small amount of Epoxy before afixing TT bearing on and ZERO issue, I did this to all my helis the TT rappy included so not sure what happened to you in this respect?

Rubbers around battery entry space, nothing says have to do this and as Norman stated not neccessary either, and that if you choose to do it takes minutes only.

Main gear, mine has slight variance, none more then my 7HV or Rappy did to be honest, and being Herringbone not as concerned about it as I would be on a straight gear or a helical really.

Pin for front tr drive, yes abit of hassle, but hardly a hard job, second build I did it literally in less then a minute the entire assembly and it was as new to me as anyone.

As far as being a step backwards, being a large Rappy lover that you are that is calling the kettle black abit as norman stated as well, other then the bottom drop lipo tray and beef main gear not sure what they changed from my 50 nitro rappy really, hardly much innovated. It did fly ok but TT refused to go away from 140 degree swash which is also so 1990s and not near as optimum for FBL either. I could go on but I will breath....

In end I won't get inot a pissing match about other brands and helis as that is not constructive, but I can tell you if I did I can make a list longer EASILY on issues I had during build and a longer list of FLIGHT issues to ME that I encountered. If these small issues are all that is coming up as these are in the hands of many non rep, non biased people then IMO this is a VERY successfull model for Mikado. As most of what has been said seem to be just clarification and builder perception and learning notes really.

Appreciate your time and thoughts if there is anything not mentioned I will be certain to convey to them to enhance the builders experience for sure. If as time goes on you experience any issues for sure relay those, they are very serious about any development needs as they have lots invested into the platform and have some really cool ideas moving forward from it.

[taosgraveyard]

I am just about to start my build, 7s, pryo 800-48, kosmik 160, 17t pinion


I am interested that you are using a rewound 850 . Can you tell us more about that

What kv rating did you go with with the 19t pinion, I presume you are using 14S, is that current

Thanks

[Mentalic]

For me I actually like the battery tray and can swap the tray faster than I can change and strap in packs in my logo 600.. I leave the lipos on the tray permanently. Would like to see a no tool required install though. Charging my Thor 6s5000's at 4c don't take very long anyway.

Installing that tail pin took me about 15seconds with hemostats. Now I did struggle with the belt for some reason, in the end it was easy, just took the belt off the large pulley.

[bj660raptor]

this stuff is trivial,cant wait to get mine

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by Mentalic

For me I actually like the battery tray and can swap the tray faster than I can change and strap in packs in my logo 600.. I leave the lipos on the tray permanently. Would like to see a no tool required install though. Charging my Thor 6s5000's at 4c don't take very long anyway.

Installing that tail pin took me about 15seconds with hemostats. Now I did struggle with the belt for some reason, in the end it was easy, just took the belt off the large pulley.

Hemostat is the secret

I remember the first time I ever did this in the main gear in a mikado, it took me an hour, maybe more ,

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by Mentalic

For me I actually like the battery tray and can swap the tray faster than I can change and strap in packs in my logo 600.. I leave the lipos on the tray permanently. Would like to see a no tool required install though. Charging my Thor 6s5000's at 4c don't take very long anyway.

Installing that tail pin took me about 15seconds with hemostats. Now I did struggle with the belt for some reason, in the end it was easy, just took the belt off the large pulley.

Hemostat is the secret

I remember the first time I ever did the pin in the main gear in a logo, it took me an hour, maybe more ,

[Stolla]

Let me clarify 2 of the issues, about changing from futaba to jr you have to remove the whole gearing assembly to get the mounting blocks out, the holes for mounting is different, also as for the ttube holders they are definately different to any other machine they are a split design, splits right in the middle which is where mine came apart.
As for removeable batt tray, whether you remove or not is not the issue the issue being why make or call it removeable if it aint, from that viewpoint we can call mainshaft removeable?
Lastly as for raptor yes its got bellcranks, so does jr does that make it worse?, old design?, quick removal battery tray,canopy never comes off, hollowed out drilled and tapped 15mm mainshaft, weighing less than logo 600 shaft, tail helical bevel gears, adjustable for centre servo arms, swash centering jig system, lot of engineering went into it to make it one of the lightest 700's around, i call this new technology ! but it also has flaws sure like the stupid metal t/servo rod but thats about it!
i' m a raptor lover, banshee lover,tdr lover, mik lover, cpass lover, unlike some of the logo fanboys and reps my opnion is totally unbiased, i'm brand disloyal if u want, here i am merely giving my experience between the machines in my fleet that i built, and yes i have built many, Btw i received some pm's about some other unhappy campers that i cant disclosed unfortunately, sure! some of you will say, have fun, believing..or not.
Its obvious some some of you guys are happy with all these little niggles, for those of you expecting more like myself for sure if i read my own post before the build i would have been prepared for all this and similarly to the guys at goblin forum perhaps just accept it as is. Anyway, im out of here not gonna waste any more time over this.
Graveyard i'll pm you about motor, my own wind, heres how it turned out https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...5&d=1355078366

[taosgraveyard]

I am not a logo fan boy either... Just a incurable helicopter junkie

my l700 " short bundle" arrived yesterday n NYc, while I am now working in China ( big bummer) and I gotta say that if the L700 is anything like my L800' I bet to some extent ill have to agree with Stolla.

With the 800 I had a coupe of moments of... Gee whiz mikado, what happened to the team that did your other helis???

I still think its good, and I like the way it flies ( though it looks like a porker in the air) and I expect I will like the L700 too., and probably better the than my L800. I may not feel as strongly as Stolla does about what he describes... But he has made some very good points

[OICU812]

No need to get all bent out of shape now , if you end up not caring for it sell it like I have with others it's no biggie. As far as people PM you with issues tell em to post as its pretty quiet in here really. Enjoy!

[Stolla]

As i recall you asked me to be specific about the problems, now i'm bent out of shape?. Make up your mind Shawn you are playing with words. Read my posts again, i said i liked it a lot despits the crappy things i dont like, but then NEVER ARGUE WITH A REP!

[rexxigpilot]

NEVER ARGUE WITH A REP!

Truer words were never spoken!

Stolla, I understand where you're coming from. The Logo 700 is a top tier model heli, not an Align product. It's quality of materials and manufacturing should be second to none. Poorly fitting internal frame braces and one-way bearing to main gear fit that causes the main gear to wrap is unacceptable! Mine arrives today or tomorrow. I hope I'm not disappointed.

On a similar note, I was not impressed with the build on the 3 Logo 500/600 kits I've built. I thought the frames halves fit poorly, the rudder servo screws are too hard to get at and don't go in straight. Little problems all around that didn't say German engineering and precision to me. The build on my Hirobo helis impressed me, not my Logos. Having said that, all build issues went away the moment my Logo heli got in the air. The only problems I've ever had with a Logo 500/600 was the spindle not staying centered and the o-rings squishing out of the headblock. That was easily fixed by adding another spacer.

I'm looking forward to my L700 build and thank those who contributed valuable information in these Logo 700 Xxtreme threads.