Vision 50c and V50cxe Tips/Tricks

[wifeorheli?]

Hey guys my names Aaron Smith i am currently a pilot/rep. for Team RcHeliWorkz.com ElyQ USA. I have been flying the elyq line for a 1 1/2 years now. I have learned alot of stuff i wish i woulda know when i first got my kit. I am currently building my second kit so i want to post the mods and tricks to make life easier for you new guys. If anyone else has any tip tricks ect... please post.




Above showing the mods i have done before even building the kit. I highly reccomend getting the front gyro mount the FAI swash and the front frame stiffeners.



Above showing where the hole will need to be drilled for the gyro mount. I reccomend the gyro mount for two reason. One it keeps the gyro under the canopy away from the elements. Two it seems to really get rid of alot of vibrations.



Above are the rear frame stiffeners i have mad. The first set of kits had problems due to the landing gear was made way to tough causing the frame to break. ElyQ has redesigned new landing gear to stop this. I can confirm it is new when i compared to my old set. There shouldnt anymore problems but i went ahead did the mod anyway.




Above is a picture of the stiffeners and where the hole needs to be drilled.



Above shows where the hole needs to be drilled for the front frame stiffeners. Also for those of you wanting to use the novarossi motor you will have to sand the frames as shown above. This will not affect the durability of the frame at all. Quite a bit will need to be taken off. So here is a list of upgrades that should be used and i reccomend. http://www.rcheliworkz.com stocks all parts.

1: FAI swash ( The stock swash is totally fine but FAI swash you gain 11mm of space on the shaft)
2: Front frame stiffener
3: Bottom plate (goes under the motor as frame can flex in hard 3d manuevers this is not a must have.)
4: Front gyro mount

I have so much more to tell you guys about this amazing helicopter. I will post some pictures soon of everything installed.

[wifeorheli?]

Heres a picture of the gyro mount installed.


Heres a pic of the FAI swash. If you plan on going FBL this is a must have.little small i will get better one


If you plan on going FBL the ElyQ Factory conversion is very nice. And very cheap to do. Other have ran other heads but i really like the simplicy of this head design.




Alot more to come!!

[tomd27858]

Looks good Aaron. That is a big help to us guys that are new to ElyQ.

[wifeorheli?]

This trick is from a friend on RR. Getting the clutch stack is very important and hard to do i found with this heli. I was having all sorts of vibes even the bearing from the block fell out twice due to misalignment. Take your time here and do it right. Also if this is a new main gear you must run the mesh tight with no backlash. the gear will break in over the first few flights. If not set tight you will experience stripped gears.

Start by pulling one bolt from the top and one from the bottom bearing blocks.


1. Loosen the engine mount against the frame, bolts are ran up to contact but no pressures

2. loosen the bearing blocks, same - bolts ran up to contact, no pressure.

3. bump the starter a few times

4. press the pinion into the main gear as tight as my finger pressure would push it. Snug up the bearing block bolts.

5. Pull two of the bolts off, one upper, one lower. See if the two blocks are in about the same spot in the slots. You can actually use a caliper and measure from the frame to the side of the hole and compare.

6. drop of loctite on each bolt, putting them in until contact, no pressure. Once they are all in start tightening them down in a cris-cross pattern, bumping the starter and hand spinning the starter shaft to see if it's still running free. I use a 2nd loose starter wand to spin the starter shaft.

7. Now add the loctite to the engine mount bolts. Tighten down in a pattern while bumping the starter. I also check the starter shaft by hand to see if it's spinning smooth. I found that pushing the engine around would free up the shaft more than just letting it rest there. Snug it up slow and try to push it into alignment. You can feel when it's right by spinning the starter shaft by hand with the wand.

Picture and tip from a friend on RR

Now on to aligning the engine after the above is done

Aligning Engine

The best way i found to do this is very easy and works everytime for me. Install the engine and dont tighten the bolts all the way down. Leave them just snug enough so the engine dosnt move under its own wieght but still movable by hand. With glow plug out turn it over a few times with the starter. the engine will self align itself with clutch. Now slowly tighten down bolts. Verify everything is moving freely and smooth.

The above techniques are critical for a nice low vibration smooth running heli. Take the advice and use it it works!

[wifeorheli?]

Hey guys sorry about the size of the pictures above im making them smaller now. In this section I will cover the FAI SwashPlate the upgraded HiperLite Fan.

FAI SwashPlate

The FAI SwashPlate upgrade i highly reccomend. What it does is it puts both levels of the swash on the same plane like the trex ect. There is absolutly nothing wrong with the stock swashplate. The FAI swash is a must for FBL. You also gain and extra 11mm or so on the main shaft allowing you to run insane amounts of cyclic/pitch. Heres some pictures.



HiperLite Fan Upgrade

The hiperlite fan is extremly nice. I was having bad balancing issues with the stock plastic fan. The hiperlite fan was spot on balance. Perfect! the holes for the governor magnets are perfect size holes. This upgrade is not neccessary and i really dont notice any cooling differences but for under 20 dollars its a nice thing to have.

[wifeorheli?]

Aftermarket Canopy Installation

I will start with the canopy. When i bought the aftermarket canopy "Rainbow" its so so nice. Paint job is exactly what you would exspect from ElyQ ... Perfect. Anyway i had problems getting it mounted. I think its due to having the gyro plate with the 3gx on it. It was rubbing the canopy which equals bad news for the FBL Contoller. I did a easy mod which extend the canopy up and also gives me room for the bigger pipes needed for the big block motors like the os55 ys56 and Nova 57hr 3ds. I used 1/8 inch plexiglass availuable at any hardware store. Pictures below.



Novarossi 57HR 3DS Installation

Now this motor just plain wont fit. I fiddled with it for a hour to get it in there and theres no way to get it in there without modding some stuff. My friend/ Team mate Jamie actually had already went threw this before me so he told me how and where and what to do. I got lucky i woulda never figured this out. Now the novarossi paired with this heli is just insane. The ElyQ is the lightest 50 size machine in its class. And this motor is nothing but a beast. Now this motor comes with a nice price tag but seatrch around you can find them used for a good price. I reccomend this motor its very nice. Pictures below are self explanitory. Instructions are in the pics and hopefully you followed the tips in the first post about the frame.




You can do a little at a time if you want and test fit each time. Theres no excact measurement on how much to take off.

[wifeorheli?]

I just wanted to give you a heads up if you havent swapped out your tourqe tube to the threaded one i highly reccomend it. The V1 will devolop slop over time. The V1 is flyable and will still be flyable with slop but if your like me and want a tight system pick one up at RcHeliWorkZ.com at this link here http://www.rcheliworkz.com/product.asp?specific=118077. Picture shown below is the new V2 ends with threads.

[wifeorheli?]

Hey guys well the new tail hub "v2" actually uses the set screws that go threw the hub instead of on the outside center of the hub. If you look at the new tail shafts theres 2 indentions for set screws. It come from the factory with only one installed and also only comes with one set screw in the package. I HIGHLY reccomend running 2. One on each side. I had one installed last weekend and it backed out throwing the whole tail assembly off.Adding another will not throw the weight off due to theres 2 indentions on each side of the shaft. Heres a pic below

[scottishlad]

I only have one indention. For one set screw could this be a problem for me?

Note i do have the v2 hub.

Unless i have miss understood you.

[wifeorheli?]

No will not be a problem for you. Just use the one then. but MAKE sure you loctite the heck out of it. Theres some tail shfts with 2 indentions which makes it great for running 2. I dont know if these are v2 tail shafts or not. Another team member just ran into the same problem i had with the set screw backing out. You will be fine just use alot of loctite and make sure its nice and tight. Next time you order some new tail shafts they should have 2 indentions then use two set screws. This is just a precatuionary mesure im reccomending. ElyQ did not intend to run 2 as the package only contains one. But if you have the indentions i would highly suggest running 2. Hows your build going buddy?

[scottishlad]

Hey man. The build is going very well waiting on new servo arms (didnt have the correct size). Then set the heli up. But i got to say how i got that bearing on the tourque tube i will never no lol.

Weather is to be good this sat in sunny Scotland so hopefully first flight this sat and a few more

You got that funfly this wkend? Btw wot is your settings for your algin gov?

Cheers

[wifeorheli?]

Funfly was fun i only got 6 flights in my tail blew off and crashed. My gov right nor 114% thats giving me 2202HS. If i remeber correctly i was like 93% was 2150. Im only running that high of HS due to the novarossi power band 18500 unlike most engines which are 17500. So remmber the gear ratio on this heli 8.72 and figure out what the max output on your motor is and divide it by 8.72 then add like 100 for the head being loaded. If that made sense good if not let me know i will get you setup lol

[wifeorheli?]

Hey guys i want to show show you guys the different options on mounting the tail hub to the tail shaft. Theres 3 different ways depending on what versions you have of the parts. Let me explain

Shown Above is the most commom way of mounting. The setscrew is dead center in the middle of the hub. So this way uses one set screw.

Shown above the tail hub you can see the threads. they go all the way threw making it possible to run a set screw threw it to the main shaft. There are some hub floating around out there that have no hole in the center of the hub as shown in picture one. So you must use a set screw threw the hub. Now there are some tail shafts that have the indentions on both sides of the shaft as shown below is just one side but has another indention on the other.

So if you do have the shaft with two indentions this makes it great as you can run two set screws threw the hub on both sides without worrying about the wieght causing vibrations. So my advice is check out and see what version of tail shaft and hub you have and make the descision on how you want to mount.

[scottishlad]

Well thats my bird finished. Got the setup of the pitch etc 2moro. Hopefully get a cpl of flights if not sun deffo. Weather is to be lovely. Well 4 degrees and sunny thats epic weather this time of year where i live lol. Hows the re build going buddy? you out flying this wkend?

[wifeorheli?]

havent flown in a week im in the middle of making a team website for us and having all the elyq information you could want very time consuming. rebuild complete just need time to fly it