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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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10-06-2009, 12:55 PM | #81 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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T-Rex 500 :: 450 Pro :: T-Rex 250 (a duex) :: Rave 450, 4S, 350mm & SK720 |
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10-06-2009, 03:13 PM | #82 (permalink) | |
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The same we can get from W = I*I*R , W=100*100*1. You can get this equation W=I*I*R from: V=I*R and W=V*I P.S. I did my first two flight with 600ESP today morning. |
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10-11-2009, 11:58 AM | #83 (permalink) |
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Does anyone have suggestions for adjusting blade tracking? Should I just get a stable hover at eye level, or are there other ways?
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10-11-2009, 04:28 PM | #84 (permalink) |
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Well, back in the days, they used to track blades of corbra helicopters with a piece of chalk on a stick. Someone would have to slowly raise the chalk until it touched the blades then they would power down and see witch one was lower, make adjustments and start again. They would do this until the chalk marked both blades. You could do the same thing with a dry erase marker, I do this with smaller heli's about 450 size all the time. Be careful, you could loose a finger or much more with a larger heli. The way you suggest works also, as long as you can distinguish which blade is which. Probably safer with a larger heli...
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10-12-2009, 11:25 AM | #85 (permalink) |
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That looks quite complicated and challenging. The most popular method is just spin, hover and look if you can see two or one blade in the air. Then pick one of the link and adjust length. If you see an improvement then you choose right.
In order to see better blade in the air, people use popular red laser to light tip of blades or they stick different color tape on the end of blades. I just watch blades in the air. |
10-12-2009, 07:11 PM | #86 (permalink) |
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Is there a good aftermarket T-Rex 600 motor out there between 560-670kv (for 12s setup), that does not require a modification of the frame to fit? Max width without modifying the frame is 46.5mm. I'm lookin for 2000 watts or better... I really don't want to cut the frame with my dremel...
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10-13-2009, 08:25 AM | #87 (permalink) |
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I'd like to hear this...
One thing to consider is the upgraded frames with a top mount motor....no frame mod necessary. you may want to ask the question in the power systems discussion... http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...rs/nm1500.html the dimensions are in US I think the largest I'd go is 1.75" did a little looking here is one. kv is higher and can Neu 1521 Heli 1521/1.5Y F Kv (rpm/V) 1050 Max Power (W) 2000-3000W Max Amp (15sec) 80A Max Efficiency 90% Io (No load A) 1.2A Rm (Resistance) 0.010Ohm Shaft Diameter 5mm Gearbox N/A Motor Diameter 44mm Motor Length 102.5mm Motor Weight 460g Built in Fan Yes Max Rpm 60,000 Poles 4 Case Finned ESC Timing 5-10 deg ESC Switching Freq. 11-13KHz
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X-cell Fury 90: 601/9251, 8231's Cyc; DS650; OS 91MP-6; Jr Vibe 90; OS 91RJX Pipe; Jr 8231 cyclic, 770 3D/G8900, Prfct Reg. CCPM; T-Rex 600 NP: 6965HB, 425MG Throttle GY 520/9254; OS50 Hyper,MP-5, Prfct Reg; 600E Bstx, nue1910 |
10-13-2009, 08:58 AM | #88 (permalink) |
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What do you guys think of helical-cut pinions? Are they just quieter than straight-cut pinions, or are there other advantages/disadvantages?
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10-13-2009, 09:02 AM | #89 (permalink) |
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I've heard that they are quieter and a little more efficient. Also, I've heard that if you have a high power system the helical cuts are less likely to strip gears. Keep in mind this is what I've heard...have never seen any actual tests.
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X-cell Fury 90: 601/9251, 8231's Cyc; DS650; OS 91MP-6; Jr Vibe 90; OS 91RJX Pipe; Jr 8231 cyclic, 770 3D/G8900, Prfct Reg. CCPM; T-Rex 600 NP: 6965HB, 425MG Throttle GY 520/9254; OS50 Hyper,MP-5, Prfct Reg; 600E Bstx, nue1910 |
10-13-2009, 09:23 AM | #90 (permalink) |
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The idea behind a helical cut gear is that when torque changes quickly, then either gear shaft can shift up or down (can thrust) to minimize stripping. In our setups, the main gear and main shaft is pretty much locked down by collars against the main bearings to avoid moving up or down. If the motor also has no thrusting freedom, then I think helical gears are going to be no different from straight gears.
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10-13-2009, 10:31 AM | #91 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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the text book...
Helical gears:
Helical gears offer a refinement over spur gears. The leading edges of the teeth are not parallel to the axis of rotation, but are set at an angle. Since the gear is curved, this angling causes the tooth shape to be a segment of a helix. The angled teeth engage more gradually than do spur gear teeth. This causes helical gears to run more smoothly and quietly than spur gears. Helical gears can be meshed in a parallel or crossed orientation. The former refers to when the shafts are parallel to each other; this is the most common orientation. In the latter, the shafts are non-parallel. For a crossed configuration the gears must have the same pressure angle and normal pitch, however the helix angle and handedness can be different. The relationship between the two shafts is actually defined by the helix angle(s) of the two shafts and the handedness, as defined:[4] E = \beta_1 + \beta_2 \,\,\text{(For gears of the same handedness)} E = \beta_1 - \beta_2 \,\,\text{(For opposite hand gears)} Where β is the helix angle for the gear. The crossed configuration is less mechanically sound because there is only a point contact between the gears, whereas in the parallel configuration there is a line contact.[4] Quite commonly helical gears are used with the helix angle of one having the negative of the helix angle of the other; such a pair might also be referred to as having a right-handed helix and a left-handed helix of equal angles. The two equal but opposite angles add to zero: the angle between shafts is zero – that is, the shafts are parallel. Where the sum or the difference (as described in the equations above) is not zero the shafts are crossed. For shafts crossed at right angles the helix angles are of the same hand because they must add to 90 degrees. As mentioned at the start of this section, helical gears operate more smoothly than do spur gears. With parallel helical gears, each pair of teeth first make contact at a single point at one side of the gear wheel; a moving curve of contact then grows gradually across the tooth face. It may span the entire width of the tooth for a time. Finally, it recedes until the teeth break contact at a single point on the opposite side of the wheel. Thus force is taken up and released gradually. With spur gears, the situation is quite different. When a pair of teeth meet, they immediately make line contact across their entire width. This causes impact stress and noise. Spur gears make a characteristic whine at high speeds and can not take as much torque as helical gears because their teeth are receiving impact blows. Whereas spur gears are used for low speed applications and those situations where noise control is not a problem, the use of helical gears is indicated when the application involves high speeds, large power transmission, or where noise abatement is important. The speed is considered to be high when the pitch line velocity (that is, the circumferential velocity) exceeds 5000 ft/min.[5] A disadvantage of helical gears is a resultant thrust along the axis of the gear, which needs to be accommodated by appropriate thrust bearings, and a greater degree of sliding friction between the meshing teeth, often addressed with specific additives in the lubricant
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X-cell Fury 90: 601/9251, 8231's Cyc; DS650; OS 91MP-6; Jr Vibe 90; OS 91RJX Pipe; Jr 8231 cyclic, 770 3D/G8900, Prfct Reg. CCPM; T-Rex 600 NP: 6965HB, 425MG Throttle GY 520/9254; OS50 Hyper,MP-5, Prfct Reg; 600E Bstx, nue1910 |
10-14-2009, 12:01 AM | #92 (permalink) |
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aftermarket servos?
Hello all...
I have a 450 and 500 heli, learning how to fly them all at once. The bigger the better I'm finding out. I just got a decent deal, getting a Trex600EP NIB from rcgroups. But, there are no electronics included. I was hoping to not spend too much on the motor and cyclic servos. Anyone have recs for a hobbycity motor that might work? I'm still in newb city with motor kv etc. I saw the Scorpion HK-4025 recommendation, but hoping to not spend $114, and have to mod the frame. I'm willing to spend a bit more on the rudder servo and gyro. Would the futaba 401 work? anyone tried any of the knockoff gyros? thanks for any experience / recs on aftermarket gear. Ben |
10-14-2009, 02:37 AM | #93 (permalink) | |
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IMHO..you would do better to save your pennies and wait till you can afford better grade equipment to outfit a 600. nightflyr
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MSR x1 / mCPX x2 / 450 x4 / Chaos600 test bed / Chaos600 Air-Wolf / American WereWolf 800 / KFrame800/900/1000 / Assorted Fixed Wing JR9303 / JR9503 / Futaba10CHP |
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10-14-2009, 11:02 AM | #94 (permalink) |
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if you want to save some money. I'd say just buy some used stuff here. It's all good.
Some of the knockoff struff is ok, but for the difference in price of good used products you can find here, it's just not wort it. For example...that 401 knockoff is about 35 shipped. the 401...most of the time it's 70-80 shipped. Worth the difference, no...not on a 600...450 size, sure... There are the higher end gyro copies that aren't bad..but their not very much cheaper than what their copied from. For example the PG-800...great little gyro..160 bucks. I'd rather get a used spartan ds760 for the same price..or a 7703d for 100 bucks... servos..the least I'd have is the ds821's...your can get 4 for 100 bucks or less. Just don't use locktite or do hard 3d. Tail. ? I've had 9254, ds821, g8700 all good for what I was doing. ESC / motor...stick with factory if you're new...they'll stay with you long enough to get you into aerobatics...you can get combos for around 100 bucks or better here somtimes Wait to do the mods when you get good enough to use their capability.
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X-cell Fury 90: 601/9251, 8231's Cyc; DS650; OS 91MP-6; Jr Vibe 90; OS 91RJX Pipe; Jr 8231 cyclic, 770 3D/G8900, Prfct Reg. CCPM; T-Rex 600 NP: 6965HB, 425MG Throttle GY 520/9254; OS50 Hyper,MP-5, Prfct Reg; 600E Bstx, nue1910 |
10-14-2009, 11:58 AM | #95 (permalink) |
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Hi,
I did like 10 flights with my 600 ESP. It has better performance with 15T pinion. It is even quite agile. I run zippy 6s 5000mA 25C. After 7 min flight and 88% throttle everything is just little warm and sometime cool. I charge back less then 4000mA. Can anyone tell me a difference in performance with stock motor and ESC and any setup with scorpion motor and some more S like 8S or 10S? Olgierd |
10-14-2009, 03:59 PM | #96 (permalink) |
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I'm still having trouble finding a motor with these specs for the Rex 600. I'm looking for a motor that does not require a frame modification to run a 12s setup. What I need is 560-660kv, 47mm max width (about 1 7/8 inhes), 81mm max height (about 3.1875 inches) and can run at 12s.
You would not believe how hard it is to find a motor with these specs, I've come close but I may just have to say hell with it, order a scorpion hk 40 series and mod the frame. I thought for sure the Neumotor 1521 630kv was going to be perfect but it is too long (3.3 inches). I would have to mod the bottom of the frame. The Tonic-X Z30 is only available at 800 and 1100kv and is rated for 6-10s. I'm gonna look for a bit tomorrow night and if I still can't find one, order a scorpion... *F it. I ordered the scorpion 4035, Hobbywing pentium 100a hv, and 2x hyperion 35c 3300mAh batteries...
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Last edited by razeyoshi; 10-15-2009 at 10:14 AM.. Reason: *update |
10-15-2009, 07:17 PM | #97 (permalink) |
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Check out the Tango motors form Kontronik. They're inrunners that fit w/o any modifications and I know there are a few guys here that have used them. Probably not the most powerful option, but very efficient and cool running from what I understand.
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10-15-2009, 08:08 PM | #98 (permalink) |
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Thanks, but too late. I already ordered the 4035 and dremmeled the frame to accept the motor. Hopefully the frame will still be strong enough and stiff enough to not have any problems. It seems fine so far. I will look into those motors (and a new frame) if i decide to go for max efficency/flight times or if the 4035 with modded frame gives me problems...
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10-15-2009, 10:07 PM | #99 (permalink) | |
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Just my suggestion, you are pleased to do as you like... nightflyr
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MSR x1 / mCPX x2 / 450 x4 / Chaos600 test bed / Chaos600 Air-Wolf / American WereWolf 800 / KFrame800/900/1000 / Assorted Fixed Wing JR9303 / JR9503 / Futaba10CHP |
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10-15-2009, 10:48 PM | #100 (permalink) |
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Nightflyr...how do you suggest reinforcing the frame? I was thinking of either machined aluminum pieces. But that requires, well, machining. Or, I was thinking of 2mm x 10mm flats.
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X-cell Fury 90: 601/9251, 8231's Cyc; DS650; OS 91MP-6; Jr Vibe 90; OS 91RJX Pipe; Jr 8231 cyclic, 770 3D/G8900, Prfct Reg. CCPM; T-Rex 600 NP: 6965HB, 425MG Throttle GY 520/9254; OS50 Hyper,MP-5, Prfct Reg; 600E Bstx, nue1910 |
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