ikon fbl servo compatability and what setting in controller

[paulioq]

hello i was looking up fbl's and servos and looking at ikon list it has futaba s3151 https://servodatabase.com/servo/futaba/s3151 and s3152 https://servodatabase.com/servo/futaba/s3152

these are both preety low speck servos i would be lucky useing them in a 1/10 car let alone a heli.

now to my question, i got s3050 https://servodatabase.com/servo/futaba/s3050 here i scavanged out of a gaui 550 huricane. the s3050 being better specked then both the 3151 and 3152 should be fine to use on a fbl set up y/n

also what setting would i use in the ikon cyclic servo selection. would i select the unlisted option or select the s3151 from the list since mine are so close but a tad better.

i only plan to run them at 6v with a bec like i was last time

my tail servo will be a futaba 9254 (the one that came with a g401) and useing a voltage regulator to drop the volts down or just run the whole system at 4.8v/5v through the ubec

[Tomstoy2]

Man, those must be old servo’s. I couldn’t find the frequency spec’s, but a general rule on Futaba is 1520/200.
My concern would be the torque, as in what you are putting it in and your flying style.

Tail servo is fine. Did it myself for years. 1520/333.

[paulioq]

yeah would be 10years old i think maybe a bit more. the last time i flew the 2000's were still in single digits. but there low use and good working servos would like to get some use out of them if i can.

plan to use it on a synergy n5c i plan on buying in the near future or maybe a n556 and stretch it. but think the push pull lever of the n5c might be better for useing a lower spec servo then trying to make them direct to swash like on the n556. i can see on the direct to swash you would want the extra tourque but with a push pull lever you get a mechanical advantage.

i want to use some 600mm funkey blades i have here and runing an os50 hyper and curtis young blood pipe. i dont expect it to fly like a power house but should be able to duplicate the power and performance of my old raptor50. its still the same motor pushing the same blades just in a different airframe.

might do a loop and a barrel roll and some inverted hover or a rainbow. dont think i'll get a mobious or tick tok out of it but i'm not there yet with my flying skill so i wont notice it.

should be a bit of power gain anyway not haveing to spin a flybar, that power can go into the blades now.

thanks for the answer i suspected as much but wanted to here from some one who has actually done it for comfirmation. i hate finding out after doing a chicken dance doh

[ticedoff8]

For older digital servos, just set them to 1520mS &156Hz
I wouldn't try to run them at a high refresh rate - it is just wasting power.

The refresh rate has nothing to do with getting maximum transit speed or torque from a servo.
The refresh rate basically effects the position holding of the servo when it is under a load.

[Tomstoy2]

Sounds like a fun project! She’ll be fine.

[Deadpony]

Originally Posted by paulioq

yeah would be 10years old i think maybe a bit more. the last time i flew the 2000's were still in single digits. but there low use and good working servos would like to get some use out of them if i can.

plan to use it on a synergy n5c i plan on buying in the near future or maybe a n556 and stretch it. but think the push pull lever of the n5c might be better for useing a lower spec servo then trying to make them direct to swash like on the n556. i can see on the direct to swash you would want the extra tourque but with a push pull lever you get a mechanical advantage.

i want to use some 600mm funkey blades i have here and runing an os50 hyper and curtis young blood pipe. i dont expect it to fly like a power house but should be able to duplicate the power and performance of my old raptor50. its still the same motor pushing the same blades just in a different airframe.

might do a loop and a barrel roll and some inverted hover or a rainbow. dont think i'll get a mobious or tick tok out of it but i'm not there yet with my flying skill so i wont notice it.

should be a bit of power gain anyway not haveing to spin a flybar, that power can go into the blades now.

thanks for the answer i suspected as much but wanted to here from some one who has actually done it for comfirmation. i hate finding out after doing a chicken dance doh

I have a 556 and a 606
I also have a os55 and os50

The 50 works pretty well in the 556 but I didnt try it in the 606 considering it was just enough power for med/hard 3d in the 556. The 556 with some older, corless servos (1 to 1.75oz each) comes in pretty light at 7.5 lbs and feels great. You could fly/3d that bird for a long time before you run out of hp.

My 606 has a os55 in it with alum cased bls servos and tips the scales at 8lbs. Flys perfect with plenty of power. Only step up from here is a 700 nitro.

A 606 with a os50 and light servos would be pretty floaty and fun to fly. Enough power to do tic tocs and piroflips, rain bows. just with a little less speed is all. This would be more power/performance then your raptor 50.

Do your self a favor and dump that youngblood pipe. There hard to tune and when you do find the sweet spot theres not much more power there then a muffler. Find a os powerboost. Super easy to tune and has great power/run time. The single needle carb works pretty good and is easy to tune but, I think they run a bit lean in hover when its cold and a bit rich when its hot out. Get a 2 needle carb when you get a handle on tuning. Your motor will love you for it.

[Rabid121]

Hi,

S3050 are still available, found the specs at German Futaba distributor: RipMax (link) - only availably in German, but for sure you can let it translate btw: S9254 specs are available too (there).

... they are rather slow and maybe a bit weak for 600 blades - but it should work. fbl setting of 1520/200 as someone already posted should be a safe bet for Futaba cyclics.

Ciao
Michael

[paulioq]

thank you every one for replying. all good stuff. its purly an economic decision so i can get a bird up flying for cheap, i dont belive you always got to reach in to your pocket with this hobby. i'm also getting back into the sport after a long time. if the heli is a bit slow and floatie will be ok for me as long as it has nice cyclic reponse(yes a contradiction of terms).

i got the new realflight 9.5 and recently an omp m2 explore with a new nx6 radio to get my hand eye dialed in again but i'm already flying around in the omp. its of its head and put in a heap of dual rate and expo to settle it down. but with low head loading it also feels a little floatie.

due to being tighter then a snakes a$$hole i'll start with the curtis pipe just to get flying i might keep my ear to the ground for a second hand pipe in the mean time. i also want to use up a heap of old blades i have here

i am leaning towards the n556 because i have some sets of carbon blades here made by heli-max but being for a flybar head not sure if they will handle the 2400 headspeed with out bifercating and turning into 2 boomarangs as they part way with the heli.